Precise1

Is the groove deep enough that a new seal won't fill it? You are ging to have to search here for the rebuild kit, I know it has been discussed, but I don't recall the info. What is the question about the crank timing gear removal? How to? It is just a tight fit with a shim washer before or behind it. It can corrode in place under some conditions and sometimes the clocking key way is compromised so the key may be binding it. IIRC, you can't really get a grabber behind it for a puller or slide hammer so I would recommend looking down the keyway in the gear to see what you can (maybe striking it the opposite direction with a hammer/drift if you see it is binding) and/or soaking it with a penetrant and giving it some deadblow love after a couple of days. Back and forth radially until you get some movement. I believe prying is ill advised... B

White smoke leaving the air intake? Like it backfired or water vapor, or? I can't imagine it stalls and doesn't have any OBD2 codes, that is where I would start other than an obvious visual inspection for anything wrong, disconnected, torn, etc. B

You can't go wrong with any manual hubs (unless you are too lazy to get out and lock, or plan ahead). As has been said, the difference in drag is quite noticeable as is highway mileage... Less than $100 for Warn hubs? That is a great deal, I paid that much for a used set of Warns with fubared studs! B

I'm not sure if that gearing info is in the FSM, but it seems like it would be, somewhere. I'd start by downloading the 1996 or 1998 FSM and searching for the information... As for wider, they bolt up the same at the bell housing and those trannys take the same TX-10 transfer case so it seems like that should be the case, I just can't prove it. B Quite a few people swapped in autos from R-50s and Xterras and they lined up, so it would almost have to be the case that the manuals are the same...

Many people run the Mile Markers without issue, but Warn is a good product; our R50 doesn't do any wheeling so my choice was easy, Mile Markers and save the cash... B

Exactly as above! You can download the Factory Service Manual from the pinned thread in the Garage section, this will be your new bible. Harbor Freight has some really cheap MMs that will do the job (for how long I don't know), and I collect them as disposables. If you can't get one easily, PM me your addy and I'll sent you one (I get them free with coupons). Not to rip on the Dealerships, but they make their $ by working on your car, not helping you work on it so don't expect much unless you have a relationship... Ok... From the 2002 manual... P0102: MAF sensor circuit... Some straight forward diagnostics that will need a MM, might be the harness/connector as I suspected. P1130: Swirl control SOL/V... A lot of diagnostics, everything from checking hoses to MM testing. I highly recommend you download the FSM, read up, get a multimeter and tackle the MAF first. It is the most straight forward, will allow you to gain some experience/understanding/confidence and might address the P1130 (guess). Once the MAF situation is cleared, see if the swirl control error re-occurrs. If so, search here as I know it has been discussed, but sorry, I don't have a VQ35 engine and haven't worked on them. All my limited knowledge is 2nd hand and read... B

What was/is the exact OBD2 error code? It would probably be worth it to buy a cheepo reader, all you need is to be able to read the codes and clear them. It might not be a MAF problem, but an issue with the connector or wiring harness. Do you have a multimeter and any mechanical/electrical experience? B

Just know that installing said lift kit and using the front bumper "relocation brackets" means the front bumper goes from "totally inadequate" to "major liability". Plan on some fabbing/help/work-done to address this, or just get an aftermarket bumper as well. B

Those are sweet items! I can't recall, what is the power draw? B

The only difference in body lift kits that I know of for Pathfinders is between 1989 and 1990 (2door to 4door) where the rearmost bolts are larger in diameter, to address the greater weight I assume. B

I could have sworn I read of some differences, but I have not studied it nor can I trust my brain... This would make sense, but only in the MAF sense since the popular swap for 'tuners' is to use the Pathfinder intake for VG30s Ok, the break down for the MAFs is: Model......Intake ID......Restrict ID.....+/- Factor......Min Area WD21.....77.5mm........50mm ..........+57mm2*1.....2002mm2 R50........71.5mm........70.5mm........-768mm2*2....3135mm2 So, the 70.5mm diameter R50 VG33 MAF has 1.57x the area in cross section for 10% higher displacement. By what I understand, this should mean lower velocity/better efficiency at cruising/highway speed for the R50, and higher velocity/low end torque for the WD21. This makes sense considering the build evolution, and makes me wonder that if you run a VG33 with VG30 cams and other components, are you starving it for air flow at RPM? At what RPM? This is where the 'tuners' take over, I just do metrics and math... *1) The WD21 MAF has an 8.5mm hole offset from the main bore to feed the sensor which is redirected into the intake, hence the + *2) The R50 MAF has a 'tonsil' that hangs down in the center, exposing the sensor element and blocking air flow, aprox 16x48mm, hence the - B

Odds are that if the pipe is that rotten, the muffler isn't in much better shape (hopefully the upstream piping is). There might not be anything to weld on to anyway, the thin sheet metal body is easy to blow through from what I understand. Better just cound on muffler and tail pipe, and maybe you'll be pleasantly surprised... While it could be worn/stretched, it just sounds like a loose belt to me. Take a look and see if any are glazed/frayed/cracked and if so, just replace them. If they look ok, see how much deflection you can get pushing on them. The information for that is in the factory service manual, downloadable in the Garage section in the MA file. I had to get a roof rack center piece I broke from the junk yard. If that isnt an option, look online for used parts.. B

There are several threads here about 'rebuilding' the frames and some people have done a lot of work; IIRC you can even buy precut patch pieces. I'm sorry, I have no experience with it though, so I can only recommend searching for the threads. As for frame sections, anything WD21 4 door, IE 1990-1995 should be an acceptable donor. B

Wow, nice prices! It was a bit more for the line I replaced and there were few local options. ($150 IIRC and pre-internet days) Not to my knowledge. IIRC it was a pinhole leak with weaping at the flex/metal seam. At the time the only option was to replace the whole thing, and it was a major PITA. B

In one word, no. Only two things I can think of is that the pump isn't tight and vibrations are causing the hose connections to fail, or somehow it is clogged/overpressuring the system. Other than checking the bolts and the low pressure line connection, I'm not sure what else to do other than replace it. I did have to replace the high pressure line on my old D720, these things do fail sometimes... B

Hey Chris! Depending on how you do it/what gearing and tires, 20mpg highway is about the best you can hope for, probably 15mpg around town... I recommend doing as much as you can yourself, saving the $ for parts. Between help here, the free, downloadable Factory Service Manual in the Garage section, and general Youtube videos, there is a lot of basic stuff you can manage just fine. If it was my R50, I would plug in an OBD2 reader to see what(if) fault codes are stored, check/replace the air filter and check/replace the plugs/wires/rotor and cap. Replacing the oil with the proper 5w30 oil might help as well. One huge boost is to have the front drive flanges replaced with manual hubs (you lose the shift on the fly capability, just have to stop and manually lock them) but it stops a lot of unnecessary drive train drag. Start with the codes first though, 12mpg is bad enough that something else is going on. Brake drag is possible as well, but one thing at a time... B

Yeah, you win the "Why Live There?" award... B

Sorry, I wasn't trying to say that you are wrong about the size of the MAF, just that I find it hard to believe that they were off by a factor of 3x and never addressed it, especially with a fairly simple component like that. There must be something else going on... As for the Maxima amd M30, I'm pretty sure the HP increase is due to heads/cams and mapping, not just an increase in the MAF diameter. LOL, now I need to see it. I'll pull the MAF off of our 1999.0 R50 and measure it tomorrow. B

Yeah, well, they did better than a lot of machine tool manual translations I've seen! As for the X, I'm pretty sure it indicates "do not reuse", especially it is by all seals, o-rings and gaskets. I'm sure there is a legend somewhere, but I'd bet on this one. B

You are welcome. Maybe start with replacing the copper washers and see what you get? That connector says 'do not disassembly', but I don't know if that needs to be done to replace the O-ring. Sorry I can't help more, but might be worth a shot if the other option is replacing it anyway. I see no reason a junkyard unit shouldn't be adequate, just look for one without leaks. Red got that other info for you... B

1994 version... http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Pathfinder/1994_Pathfinder/ Yes, that sounds about right. When you download your copy, go to ST-32 and look at the exploded view. Where is your pump leaking from? There might just be some seals to replace... B

Considering that an engine is really just an air pump for these purposes, isn't the air volume purely calculated by displacement and RPM in a freeflow state? Shouldn't the VG33 only need exactly 10% more intake volume than a VG30? The stock MAF diameter of a VG30 is 50mm (1,963mm2). I can't believe they went with a 90mm diameter for 10% more displacement (6,360mm2) which is almost 3.25x the area. B

Another way to drain as much as possible is to remove the low pressure fluid return to the pump reservoir, put that in a bucket and cramk it up for a moment. Turning the wheels might drive a little more out as well. It shouldn't hurt anything if you just run it briefly. Again, as per Red, you might have to fill it up and repeat a few times to get clear fluid throughout the system. As for removing it, I haven't done it on a pathfinder, but it should be as simple as a few lines, bolts and the tensioner set up. B

I agree with SBB^ I can't offer much input for replacement vehicles (not that there aren't any) but I haven't been looking for them. You can buy a relative rust free WD21 pretty darn cheap ($2-3K) out of state and drive it home. If you undercoat/wax/rinse it well, it should last; be proactive... If the old girl is getting too tired, strip her down of anything of worth for the new one and let her live on that way. Sell what you can/want and save the rest. Keep in mind though, the 1993 to 1994 pathys have a few differences... It sounds like you know what you want, and it wouldn't be too hard to do with a little plannng... B

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FhbPLu_qDc0 B