Precise1

I'd just replace the headers! AFAIC replacing the head is much more work than removing a couple of broken studs, and you don't even know the condition of the heads... Good find on headers in a junk yard, do they say what brand? (there are only a few manufacturers) What color is the Pathy? B

I can't offer any better suggestions, but you did make me laugh. Sorry... B

Here is some specific information on that in this post and some Nissan factory information farther down. If Timken isn't available, you should be able to cross reference part numbers easily enough, and Alkorahil does ship parts internationally as well. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/36792-broken-compression-rod/?p=697589 B I'm sorry, I must not have pasted the link the first time...

This shows the basic lay out, but I haven't been able to take any actual measurements yet. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/37073-how-to-build-a-winch-bumper/?p=710636 Sounds like you have it at a shop now though... B

Welcome, and thanks for sharing! That looks like a very interesting place to explore... I'm assuming that last picture is of geothermal vents? B

Are you certain about this? According to the Mile Marker website, they still list the part number (#435) and describe it as fitment for Pathfinders. They say only up to 1996, but this is incorrect... http://milemarker.com/products/drive-train-products/lock-out-hubs B

I'll get you some pictures/dimensions tomorrow. I'd definitely avoid brackets if possible, just one more thing for a bolt to come loose or another bend/shear point. I might be asking you for some more pictures/dimensions of what you have though, just for community in general. You don't have CAD per chance? B

The 'stock' studs can break if/when the manifolds warp and due to heat cycle stress/fatigue; not engineered/manufactured well... The 'new stock' studs are the ZX studs if I understand it correctly, I don't believe they even make/sell the original spec Pathy VG30 version any longer. I have fancy headers that are held on with black oxide bolts, 10.9 grade IIRC. So far so good... I never understood the stud fascination, nor what grade they are rated to. B

I have Gorilla locking lug nuts and find them to be of good quality. If their standard lug nuts are made to the same standards, I wouldn't hesitate to use them. Any reason you don't use the stock ones? OK, now I have to ask though, how/why are you stripping wheel studs? Do you use a torque wrench? Are the threads clean and dry? Do you start the lug nuts by hand? Something isn't right, and I'm just trying to identify it... B

Unless something fell off, the person who set that up should be slapped in the head with a hot bumper... I second clamping on an angled extension until you replace it. B

Welcome Bud! fleurys is the man to talk to about spacers, and I do recommend the manual locking hub upgrade, I went with Mile Markers (much cheaper) and gained 2mpg highway. That is witht he VG33 motor, I'm not sure what you will see with the VQ35, but there has to be some positive difference. 31" tires almost fit a stock R50, but things can change if you use different rims; 1-2" lift is a good idea... B

Sorry you can't do this yourself, I understand that. Your independent mechanic doesn't know everything he thinks he does though. Screws instead of bolts? Not an issue that I know of, and I'm on my 4th Nissan (almost 20 years). Yes, the exhaust manifolds can warp and break the studs, but that was on the VG30 motor, your have the VG33 which is just it's big brother but all the peripheral items are different, and the exhaust studs were increased from 8mm to 10mm to avoid this issue. While the maniflods can crack, as they can on many cars, the engine does not have to be removed to replace them by a long shot; I replaced one a year ago... While he might be a good general mechanic, he isn't impressing me with his Nissan knowledge and is not giving you good info. Properly maintained Pathfinders easily make it to 250k miles, and usually far beyond. We have a 1999.0 that we bought 4 years ago with 150k miles and now has 180k on it. It runs perfectly, and I expect to keep it for a long time. If the strut towers aren't compromised (ignore the exhaust manifold nonsense), I'd keep the car. The dealer can check out the towers, it should be free as there was a recall on it. Your son's friend should be able to do most of this work easily, none of it is high level. Have him take a look at the vehicle and see if what is said it needs is actually true, and you can go to the Garage section and download a free copy of the Factory Service Manual in the pinned thread at the top. This will have all the service info/directions needed... I'd say stick with what you have, and just have some of the work done now. I'll go into it tomorrow. This! Gaskets shrink and screws loosen, most of the time they just need to be tightened. B

It looks good on the outside, but I really don't understand how it was ever intended to mount. The top mounts are mainly just so the bumper isn't pulled down during winching, the real attachment is underneath on the frame where the tow hook(s) mount. It seems to me like you have a bumper that needs to be fitted by a professional shop with fab/welding ability. I have an ARB bumper hanging in my garage right now, so I'm pretty familiar with the way it needs to be. Let me see if I can find the thread with some info... B Here it is. That reminds me, I need to finish it up. I can get you the mount dimension info fairly soon if it will help... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/37073-how-to-build-a-winch-bumper/page-2?hl=+winch%20+bumper

This one will be gold in 20-30 years, of combustion engines are still legal... http://www.drivesrt.com/2015/challenger-srt-hellcat/ We might find big changes in technology soon, the Tesla S is the new model T (it will be a valuable one as well) B

Have you cleared the code and it comes back? (not sure by how you said that) B

Hey stranger! I can't recall which the of the F150 coils fit, have you tried to search for "F150"? In all honesty though, if I were you, I'd just take out your current springs and cut an inch or so off of them. This will lower it that amount and stiffen the spring at the same time. You might not have to make any JY trip... B You could even cut the spring way down (3"), and install a HDPE spacer made by fleurys to stiffen it up even more but set your height where you want it. Start gently!

And interestingly enough, that tolerance window is exactly .1mm. Well, that wasn't exactly the FSM I assumed it would be in, but I'm glad you found it, and thank you for posting it. I didn't know Nevada is adopting Ca type smog laws! I'm assuming only in the Reno/Sparks/Carson City and Las Vegas areas? Are they retroactive to all existing vehicles? Is there an exempt age limit? This could be a major headache for a lot of people, but I can't say I'm totally against it... So you have done all that work only to find out that you basically can't use that motor? Being in NorCal, I believe that my only engine upgrade option would be to take a VG33, install VG30 cams and dress it all up in VG30 parts, and just hope that no one notices (I actually think it would work). B

Well, nothing should cause a rear wheel to wobble if all is well, and it could be dangerous to drive on. I highly recommend you loosen the lug nuts, jack up the rear axle and remove the tire/drum and inspect things (or take it to someone who will). B

If it is getting spark at the plugs, the coil is good. (it is in the dizzy) So if the old filter was plugged, would it run with the new one installed? I'm not sure if you can safely blow out the fuel lines (back to the tank/fuel pump), but checking the fuel pressure at the injectors/fuel pressure regulator seems like the next step to me. B

Annnnnnnd you drive an R50 when the OP has a WD21. Totally different tanks, even if they are 'rated' at the same capacity. (I did read your post ) B

If you have ever heard marbles rolling around in a gas tank, you'd rather deal with the banjo boys; that sound will drive you nuts! Not to my knowledge. B

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/20186-vin-decoder/ That's about 18.5mpg and about normal for a WD21. I usually fill up at 1/4 tank and usually only get 15 gallons into it, so yes, you have the 80 liter (21.1 gallon tank). B

That would be this post and the one below it. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/25794-ride-height/?p=474169 B

I'd use a 3/4" or 19mm socket and lube the threads of the adjustment bolts first, but yep... Hint: measure from a flat floor to the body crease on all 4 corners and write it down before you start. You can get 1-2" of lift out of the front with impunity, depending on how far it has sagged from it's factory height, just make the back 1/2-1" taller than the front and you will be golden. You can make your choices once you have read up on it all. B

Well, without seeing the other thread, I don't know if or what I already suggested, or if it was tried, so I'm not going to guess. It is best to keep things in one thread for continuity and other people's future searches. As for the plugs, I run the platinum in both a 1995 and 1999 without issue, and I have seen the stock plugs with a 2.5mm gap (not a typo) in a 1996 and it still started/ran fine. If anything, that plug looks like you are running a bit rich or have some oil blowby... B