Precise1

It looks to me like everything is there as it should be, just with the hubs removed. You can go for the stock automatic hubs (which are convenient but not as robust) or manual locking hubs from Mile Marker or Warn (which are more robust, but not as convenient). http://www.4wheelparts.com/Drivetrain-Differentials/Mile-Marker-Supreme-Manual-Hub.aspx?t_c=12&t_s=237&t_pt=6075&t_pn=MIL435 Did you download the FSM and look at the views? Are you mechanically inclined? The work isn't hard, but there is a little experience needed. I'm guessing that you need to pull the rotor off, clean everything well and should probably replace the outer bearings at least. Have you ever worked on wheel bearings? And where did you buy the vehicle from with those missing? B

For educational purposes only... http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18595 B

Thank you very much for that information, that was exactly what I needed, and unfortunately it tells me that Sway-Away has nothing even close to that size on their stock list. This idea is a no go... B

^This! Run it until it leaks or you have to take it off for some other reason. B

Just don't get any on your hootus... B

The tire carrier is different from the WD21 to the R50, and they are fairly rare on the R50s, so I don't believe anyone has done a write up on it. I recommend you go to the Garage section and download the 1998 FSM from the pinned thread, there should be some information in there... B

Probably because it wouldn't be 3/8 on a Nissan, probably 10mm is my guess? there is .5mm difference in size there, and why is a Canadian using standard tools? I recommend you soak the threads down with a proper penetrant, buy one of these http://www.amazon.com/OTC-6177-Square-Drive-Socket/dp/B000P6UNMO and hammer it into the plug, then try to remove with a breaker bar (save drilling for a last resort). These plugs are a pipe seal which are notorious for getting stuck. Whenever you put a plug back in, wrap the threads with some teflon tape. It will help seal the threads, meaning you don't have to tighten the crap out of it, and will help prevent it from being stuck in the future. The capacity of the TC is 2.375 US quarts, so it was basically empty. Are there any signs of leaking anywhere? B

They are only prone to rust in places where they spread corrosive elements on the ground... I have never heard of anyone having an issue with fouled plugs from running seafoam in any manner. B

Done in one! Thanks for that Bud! B

x3 on checking the ECU for stored codes, and if not, then it is sensor check time! Go to the Garage section and download a FSM from the pinned thread. in the EC section there will be a trouble shooting section based on symptoms (ie. stalling hot, stalling cold, stumbling, etc) and follow the diagnostic proceedure. Odds are it is what a mechanic would do... B

WTF!?! I'd say someone stole your hubs!! Exactly as Red said, but the clip is there, just not seated properly on one side. Yes, if it has been like that for a long time, replace the bearings, but if not, I would just remove the outer bearings and clean/repack them. IIRC there is someone advertising in the free section, looking to give away a set of the auto locking hubs, I'd start there... B Sorry they have been taken, so junk yard or put a post in Parts Wanted section...

No worries, that is all I know it as but apparently the product changes and the name doesn't. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MAPP_gas It is probably the same or equivalent, depending on local names/laws. I just used MAAP as that is probably what he will see in the hardware store in Warshington... B

Some of all of the above... When cold, spray it with a penetrant (PB blaster, liquid wrench, NOT WD-40) a few times over a day or two and see of it comes loose with a proper wrench. If not, run it like Adam says, let it cool enough so you arent going to burn yourself and try to break it free with a good fitting wrench (pipe wrench might be appropriate if it is well rusted). Have someone hold the pipe still if possible, this will increase the appliable torque. If that doesn't work, use a propane (or MAAP) torch to heat the exhaust/bung area, not the O2 sensor. Heating expands metal and you want the fitting to expand, not the sensor within it. Try to get it loose with the wrench again, and if that doesn't work, heat it up again and then use one of those 'dust off' spray cans INVERTED to cool the sensor around the thread base, then try again. If none of that works, report back and we'll probably recommend using a sawzall or angle grinder with cut off blade... B

Ok, so the grill guard did flex back and damage things. I'm sorry to hear that... Still it shouldn't be enough to total it out, and if they try, take a pay out, buy the vehicle back and make it driveable again. You might not have much resale, but it doesn't sound like that is your concern, and doing it this way shouldn't cost you anything out of pocket, especially if you source some used parts where possible. B

Even the early models had auto locking hubs. Your bearings are exposed? If so, something is missing and they won't last long! Please take a picture of it and post it for us. Also, go to the Garage section, in the pinned Factory Service Manual thread and download your copy, 1994 is the earliest but it will be the same for this. Go into the IDX file and look up Front Axle section; in there will be an expanded view of the hub assemblies. B

Ouch, but yes, the damage isn't too bad. The push bars actually helped instead of amplifying the damage, so you didn't hit them too hard. I say that as long as everyone is OK, just take it as a lesson to watch out a little better (assuming you could have avoided it). I don't believe ARB full bumpers for the R50, just these... http://store.arbusa.com/ARB-Sahara-Bar-Nissan-Pathfinder-2000-02-3938020-P3347.aspx B

That shoukld be an easy modification; more of a pain to redo the powdercoating. I'd just see how it all mounts and go from there... B

That looks good, I can't wait to see that bull bar mounted! You might want to fit a winch first, just so there isn't any interference, but yeah, something really needs to be done IMHO. B

That is one serious looking bull bar indeed! My only complaint is that the vertical winch plate needs some side gussets for reinforcement/safety... B

WE NEED PICTURES!! B

Yes, the hubs are swappable from side to side, and yes the 1986.5-1990 (2 door models) are 27 spline count. Good to see you JJ! The only other thing I would add is check the control arms and bushings and the compression rods and bushings. If those are significantly worn or damaged, it could a lot the wheel to move considerably, especially when the front wheel is under power. You might not feel much with 'normal' 2wd road driving... B

Ok, but the last one posted was 55 minutes after I responded to this thread, so it must have posted... Yes, please do that, it would be much appreciated. B

I highly recommend you clean it really well and give it a surface treatment like tool black or something, or it won't last very long up there. Being a salt state, I would have just bought a new one. B

Yes, and I highly recommend left handed bits as well. If you are lucky, there will be some material sticking out that you can get pliers or vice grips on. There are plenty of threads on how people have tackled the job, so do a search for them. The reason I ask about the truck is that one was stolen in Warshington not too long ago, and it is possible it was stripped and junked out of state. When you go to get the headers, could you please take a few pictures and get the VIN? And what is up with all the repeat posts? Please don't do that, it confuses the issue and wastes our time (to delete them)! B

Yes, I am familiar with that thread, what exactly is your question? Here is the bearing cup specs and part numbers for what is listed in both threads. It appears that one is slightly larger than the other, both in ID and OD, with the same taper. I'm not sure which is better, but I suspect both would work. I'd measure the OD of the replacement bushing or the ID of the bushing cup and go from there. http://cad.timken.com/item/tapered-roller-bearings-ts-tapered-single-/tapered-roller-bearings-ts-tapered-single-imperi-2/item-29320 http://cad.timken.com/item/tapered-roller-bearings-ts-tapered-single-/tapered-roller-bearings-ts-tapered-single-imperi-2/item-28644?&plpver=10&origin=keyword&filter=&by=prod B