Precise1

Adjust the torsion bars up front and put in different springs (or spacers) in the rear. All your information will be in the Garage/How To section, right on the first page. B

Ok then, sorry I wasn't of more help. Yes, please do keep us in the loop on this, what you are doing sounds interesting. B

Yes, definitely check for stored codes first. Since disconnecting the O2 sensor didn't make a difference, it would be worth checking it's output. IIRC, it is 0-1 volt, but if it is stuck in that range there will be no malfunction code. From there I would check the coolant temp sensor (closest to the block), the TPS, the AICV, the EGR valve... All free and relatively easy, the info is in the FSM available for download in the Garage section, just use the 1994 version, it will be the same under the hood. Did you take a look under the distributor cap? Someone had their rotor come loose, and I've had the center electrode wear off (as in gone) so the coil input was arcing down to the rotor. It ran pretty good, but stumbled a bit when I was first letting the clutch out... B

WD21 to R50 maybe? B

Glad it was fairly painless! Just a FYI in the future, a couple of things worth checking (read:free and easy) is to make sure that your battery ground strap is cleanly/well connected to the chassis/frame and to also check what the voltage is at the starter when it cranks. The ground is often overlooked but part of the circuit, and quite a few people have replaced their power cable to the starter due to it not carrying sufficient voltage. I like to check everything before I start pulling parts... B

You need to replace the arms, or just the bushings? I am certain there is no difference in the arms between those years (and probably not from 1996-2000, but maybe from 2001 on), but I couldn't prove it in a court of law... B

Lets try this again... Let me speak from experience that having 2 threads to sell the same stuff is a bad idea, not to mention is against double posting guidelines and just generally keeping things organized. Please take your requests/transactions to the thread in the Classifieds/For Sale section by following the link above. B

What I want to know is why gas is only $3.40 at Chevron there! Congrats on the new aquisition, it looks good and I'm sure you'll just set it up better. There is a thread in the Classifieds/For Sale section about the OP selling some parts, so lets keep all of those requests/transactions there to avoid confusion. Thanks... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/38620-just-got-a-new-projectpathy-parting-out-old-pathy/ B

Interesting to know that a dirty MAF has such a profound effect, and it sounds like the mechanic is a good one. Might want to keep him in mind... B

I believe MY1PATH has this information from when he had his heads decked, and I'm pretty sure it was covered in MR510's VG34 write up, but I do not know that information off hand. I recommend doing an advance search using those names and see what comes up (try a few different search phrases). If you can't find anything, let me know and I'll see what I can come up with using the same method. Oh, is there any such information in the FSM (available for download from the pinned thread in the Garage section) in the EM section? They might not give the number outright, but it could probably be extrapolated... B

Holy crap! How was that not felt before it got that bad? How is the flywheel? B

Any updates? B

x3 on the timing belt, with 105k mile intervals, it will be due at 210k (might be part of why it was sold). Otherwise, like was said, change the fluids and as long as there is no major rust, you should be good. Again, 200k miles isn't end of life by a long shot... B

LOL English? Thank you for the update! I'm not sure about that mechanic, I wouldn't have pulled the head over 10lbs... Glad you finally got it sorted out, my own injector trouble took a lot of BS and time to identify as well. When they run, they run well, and otherwise they are a biatch. Still, I'll take it over carbs... B

No big deal, I cleaned it up and you understand now, it's all good. To start, you need air, fuel, spark (and timing/compression). Air can be assumed, fuel can be tested by spraying into the intake (simple way) but if you don't have spark or T/C, nothing will happen. Spark you check for easily, rotor spinning means the timing belt hasn't broken, and from there we can go into timing and fuel tests... B

So, you posted 2 threads on exactly the same thing 31 minutes apart? That is a bit impatient, no? Please, do not do this! All it does is split the responses and confuse issues, especially in the future when someone is searching for answers, like "won't start". Thanks. I merged the two threads... B

The VG engine does seem to like to run hotter in general, but the thermostats are anywhere from 170 to 180 IIRC and they generally run 190-200 overall. If the gauge seems normal and it isn't losing any coolant or boiling over when you stop, there is no issue. If you are really curious, download the FSM from the pinned thread in the Garage section and verify the functioning of the temperature sender unit with a multimeter; pretty easy to do for peace of mind. That said, you are in Ca and it gets pretty hot in most places this time of year... B

^This Almost nothing is swappable from a WD21 to an R50, but we enjoy swapping the motors, center consoles and doodads from the R50s into WD21s. B

See if there is spark to the dizzy, and that the rotor spins when you crank it. No point in anything else until those are verified... B

I'm willing to bet you will find oil on the clutch plate or broken fingers on the pressure plate. No way it would fail so quickly otherwise, and a soft pedal/air in the line would mean that the clutch wouldn't fully disengage, not the other way around. As said, if the slave doesn't retract all the way, it could keep the clutch from engaging as well, that should be an easy check... Some people like to remove the damper unit on the firewall (on a WD21, do the R50's have them?), mainly because they can't figure out to bleed them, but most people leave them alone and never have an issue. If you change the clutch, you might want to plan to change the rear main seal (or that could be the problem). B

Same with mine and used it on many different vehicles so far. Just buy a cheepo, it is all you need to read and clear... B Sorry, let me clarify, I didn't buy mine at Harbor Freight, I was talking about that it works fine and on anything OBD2 so far. I bought a Craftsman that cost more and has some useless pay-as-you-go features that are a waste of time. I ditto just buying a cheepo, I wasted $ unnecessarily on mine.

*snort* Maybe it was well taken care of but wrecked through no fault of the owner, or maybe it was stolen, beaten and crashed. I am sorry it is essentially gone, but it is helping others keep running, and may not be the next owner's doing. B

Is it a 1991 like you stated, or a 1995 like your information says? It could make a difference... Step one would be to check the ECU for stored error codes. The break down is in the Garage/How To section. B

It couldn't hurt to change it, that is out of spec more than 2x the entire range and they aren't very expensive. This does sound like fuel pressure as you shouldnt have to touch the gas. Try leaving the ignition on for 5-10 seconds before you crank it to see if it builds more pressure, otherwise you might want to check the output of the throttle position sensor, and then perhaps the fuel pressure. I always recommend one step at a time though so you have direct corolation of any changes (good or bad) to one specific thing. It is one of the 4 or 6 on the tree right behind the fuel filter on the passenger fender. The wire is routed straight down and back, then crosses over the tranny. The best way to find it is to have someone underneath pulling jiggling the wire that you traced from the sensor, and someone watching to what moves from the engine compartment. Then label it... B

Ok, so what you are saying is that there is a stud still threaded into the head but broken off roughly flush, and the PO drilled off center and off axis to the center of the stud, and then tapped that crooked hole? I'm assuming the tapped hole breaks out of the side of the stud and into the head material? It also looks like the very edge of the hole is tangent to the center of the stud, which makes things more challenging... I'm not sure what equipment you have available, but I am assuming you are more concerned about the best results rather than the fastest so..., I recommend a combination of Mr Bum's and Derek's recommendations, but starting with the least invasive or damaging first. Soak the hole with a good penetrant, the hole will actually allow really good access for the oil so it could really make a difference. The tapped hole could have also relieved the pressure of the frozen/broken stud and it might not really be very tight anymore. Can you get anything to the hole sideways (like a broken drill bit, ejeector rod, etc) so you can see of you can tap the stud counter clockwisevia the offset hole? In the picture, towards 1 o'clock would be the best, but try not to damage or displace any material, just see if you can get it to move at all. The next step would be to drill it out and using a jig would be perfect, but it would take some careful measurements/fab work to do it. I'll try to think of the easiest way to make one accurately if you are up for it. If you can get in there with a dremel, some patience and a steady hand, you could start going down the center line of the stud with a christmas tree or V shaped burr until you have a partial lip all they way around allowing you to start a small drill directly down the center (measure the other holes so you have a maximum depth to shoot for and use a drill stop collar). Obviously, the first hole is the most critical one so take your time. Once you have a hole all the way through, try tapping the stud CCW again. If no movement, go to a slightly larger drill, rinse and repeat. Any material you remove is a good thing, relieves pressure and makes it more likely to get the stud loose and out. Obviously, use left hand drill if possible and be patient. I'm a little leery of Dereks large drill bit method, just because I don't think it would be possible to get it started properly, but I've not tried that myself by hand. What kind of equipment do you have access to? Do you know anyone with a mill? Can you get a better picture like #2, but with the gasket pulled aside and the surface brushed or blown off? Oh, I have heard of people tack welding a short bolt to the end of the stud as well, and using that to try to unscrew it, but if you do, make sure not to fill that hole or its never going to unscrew! B