Precise1

Wow, much better than what I hoped for. Thank you very much for that! Good price on the injectors too... B

Unfortunately it isn't unheard of for those keyways to be damaged. Did you take a picture of it before you put it all together? Hard to comment otherwise... Hope it holds together for you though! B

Stalker!! Not in Fort Bragg anymore, eh? Sorry we didn't at least meet up... B

I'm glad you got it sorted out, and yes, if you have to do it, why not do a good job by addressing things while you are there. Do you mind sharing what it cost you, just so others might have an idea or use your source to save some $? B

Ok, no problem Bud, any time. I'm glad you got it taken care of and hopefully you didn't pay too much and kept the old unit. The downstream O2 sensor doesn't do anything other than measure the exhaust gasses so even if it is failing, it shouldn't affect anything. Happy trails and good luck! B It'll be there in the future, and no, I wouldn't go wheeling at Moab unless it was a dedicated trip and I had some sort of support/caravan/trailer option. I've never been to Coyote Gulch, but I'lll check it out for the future. I had no problem camping in Zion, there was plenty of room at this same time of year, but Yosemite will be hit and miss. You might want to time it to come in the morning, but then like you said, you have backpacking ambitions. We have camping reservations for october with some friends, that were made 2 months ago... Yeah, let's meet and say Hi if we can/you want, but if not, I get it. I can show you some great breweries though! It's all good...

Kingman and MY1PATH might be helpful resources (Nefarious as well), they seem to like playing with that type of thing... Good luck and keep plugging at it. Don't be afraid to put it down when you get frustrated though... B

Check the ECU for codes, and check to make sure the rotor spins when you crank the motor. B

Do you know if the clutch has ever been replaced? It could be the original, and that would mean it is time... My experience is that throw out bearings can often be felt in the clutch pedal, but sometimes it just barks or howls when you depress the clutch. The fact that it does it sometimes when you are in gear with the clutch out is odd to me. It makes me wonder if the pressure plate is worn out/has broken fingers/is letting the clutch slip. The clutch could be down to rivets as well... While nothing should outright fail (just get worse) you don't know how long it is going to last. You should be able to limp along for a few weeks at least though, depending on mileage, driving style and luck. Just plan on sooner than later. No buddy with a garage to help you, even if you give him a cash injection? The job isn't too bad as you don't have T-bars to drop like a WD21. You might be able just to unbolt and slide the tranny back and change everything like that. Consider that clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing, flywheel resurface or replace and rear main seal (do it when you are there) will around $350 (?) and 8 hours labor (shouldn't take a mechanic in a shop more) @ $100/hr (?) so guess $1,200? B

Crap, I'm sorry I didn't see this yesterday! The FSM on code 300 (random cylinder misfire) check items: Improper spark plug insufficient compression incorrect fuel pressure egr valve injector circuit is open or shorted injectors intake air leak ignition secondary circuit is open or shorted lack of fuel drive plate/fly wheel front heated O2 sensor I'd listen to the injectors if possible (long rod or screw driver on it cupped to your ear) to make sure they are firing, check for intake leak, check egr valve, try unplugging test driving and reconnecting the heated O2, check the cap and rotor for anything abnormal/cracks (someone recently had a rotor come loose), maybe pull an easy plug and examine/test for spark. These are all things you can do on the side of the road... Do you have a multimeter with you? Do you have a copy of the FSM or can you download/access with you device (pinned thread in the Garage section) It looks like there is a 10 amp fuse for the front O2 sensors, make sure that isn't corroded or compromised. EC-362 is start of EGR testing, too much to type easily. Check fuel pump relay for connection/corrosion and 15amp fuse in the fuse block. EC-440, too much to type easily. I'll relay anything I can to help though, just let me know. Hopefully you can trouble shoot it without going to a shop, Yes, a bad start, but don't let it get you down; you'll work through it. You might have to get wet though. I'll watch this thread closely for your replies. B

Yes, but why have to do that extra chore and expense? I have to 'restore' the lenses on the wife's Matrix every year, and they are due again. I'll take glass any day! This. I find spraying on a vinyl or plastic protector with UV protection helps once that layer is gone, but you have to remember to do it every month or so, and even then the lenses still degrade, just not as quickly. Screw plastic lenses! B

You should. A lot of other poeple might have the same issue and if it is from that station, they need to hear about it. It might save other people some grief... B

Did you fill all the way up? Yes, sometimes stations get the wrong thing pumped into the wrong tanks. Water could have leaked in as well. I'd call the station to see if there have been any other complaints. White smoke usually means antifreeze (or water) is burning, so check the radiator to see if it is full and that it doesn't look like it is mized with oil. You should try not to drive it until you figure out what is going on... B I'm moving this to the Garage section where there might be more input...

A friend came by today to pick up my cement mixer in his 2003 R50LE: plastic headlights... B

Have a safe and fun trip Bud! That is a lot to see... Grand Canyon was a drive through for me, Zion I stayed for a few days, Decent camping at Bryce Canyon (make sure to catch the sunset at the overlook at the front end of the park, that is where most of the famous pictures are taken), Yosemite is awesome but if you don't have reservations, you won't be camping there, and let me know when you are nearing Point Reyes. I live about 30-40 miles north, and you are welcome to stop by if you wish. A meal, a bed, tools/oil change, camping on the lawn, whatever. Skipping National Arches/Moab? B

I have the basic dimensions for the lower mount , but not upper and lower mounts yet. Soon... As for FH, some of their stuff is ok, but better safe than sorry. 18,000 lbs is a lot of force, and what is your winch rated at? B

Well, it sounds like you'll have to make do with the winch on a plate an using it in back for the time being, there is no way you are going to get a front receiver set up for under $50. The materials would cost that much even if you did all the work. Make sure to check that the winch plate is rated for your winch capacity! Remember, when having the winch in back, you need some heavy duty cables to get to the battery, and I highly recommend a tree saver and a few D rings to start with. B

1984 D720, 2 1995 WD21XE and a 1999.0 R50SE. All Glass... Because plastic sucks... B

Found the thread, but sadly the Army links are dead. The information can still be found in the link Pezzy supplied, about 1/4 way down. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/20836-vehicle-recovery/?hl=%2Brecovery+%2Blink The BOLD above is a mis-statement; sidewall depth miring equals approximately 1x vehicle weight pull strength, hub depth equals approximately 2x vehicle weight pull strength requirement. At least I was off on the side of safety. When it comes to recovery, always use heavier rated equipment than you think you need... B

They aren't that expensive. A while back Pro Comp had had a sale (can't recall through who) and 20k lb straps were $15.99 and 30k lb straps were $19.99. I bought 3 of the 30k and on reflection I should have gotten 1-2 of the 20k as well; you need some big arse D-rings for the 30k-ers! I gave 1 of the 30k straps to a friend, but then bought some used parts from a member and wound up with another 30k strap, 30k tree saver, 12k snatch block, more D rings. Combined with my HighLift jack, 94' of 3/8 cable off of a dead winch and another 94' on the mounted winch, if I can't get to you/get you out, just leave it there until spring and come back with an excavator... As for 5k straps, the only thing I'd use something that light for was to move a vehicle across a flat parking lot. That is a liability right there. if you are stuck in as little as 4-6" of mud or sand, it takes approximately 2x the vehicle weight in pull to get it moving, so 8-9k lbs for a Pathy. That is why I have a snatch block for my 8k lb winch, and actually plan to upgrade to a 9.5k, it is barely enough... There is a link here to the US Army vehicle recovery guide, that has good tips and numbers, especially when pulling up a grade, etc. I'll see if I can dig it up for you... B

Good job in figuring it out so quickly. Yes, those are prone to failure after 20 years or so... B

You can't commonly find decent metric hardware in Canadia? B

JGC springs will get you 2-4" depending on which ones and how sagged you factory coils are. Fleurys also makes some spacers from HDPE IIRC, so look in the Vendors section for information... B

Yep, the 94-95 models have an electronic gauge cluster that has... issues sometimes. First thing is to pull it and check all connections and tighten down the brass screws on the printed circuit in back, they are the ground points. Second is it may be the voltage regulator which fails sometimes. Refer to the FSM for that test info, downloadable from the pinned thread in the Garage section. I had a tach that died, years later I combined two clusters to get one fully functioning unit, and the tach came back to life in the non-functioning one, so sometimes they just want to be held... B

At least you got it off... Might want to consider having those holes tapped now that they are off though. B

I left the grill in, but pulled the radiator. It gives you a lot more room to work, and you don't have to worry about damaging it. If you are changing the waterpump as well (highly recommended) you will be draining the coolant regardless... Oil leak may be valve cover gaskets (try tightening first), cam seals or crank seals (just plan to change them). Might want to snug the oil pan botls as well... B