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Precise1
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Everything posted by Precise1
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The main reason being, it that it takes a lot more traction to pull yourself out of being stuck in 2wd because you have no momentum and might have dug some holes already. The point of being in 4Hi it to get through the obstacle without getting stuck, rather than risk a lot of recovery work. The other side to that is if you do get stuck in 4Hi, you don't have much to fall back on other than said recovery work. Personally I think it is a balance of both... With locking hubs, what I recommend is to lock them in when you hit the trail, but use 2wd most of the time. Come to a stop before a difficult obstacle, shift into 4Hi or 4Lo as appropriate and proceed. B
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The bolts/studs that used to attach the drive flanges that were removed to mount the manual locking wheel hubs? The thread is M8x1.25, and I'm pretty sure 30mm is the length but you need to verify that by pulling one. B
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Not you, Greg, Greg! B
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It looked like it to me when I measured it (within 1/8-1/4 inch), but I could not get the crossbar to release without destroying it (and it was getting late and hot) so I suspect there is a difference in the mounting tabs. I can't swear on it, but when I tried to liberate one intact to try, I was foiled. Those aren't the same. See how they are symmetrical? See how the 'old' style are not? Again, not saying that they can't fit as it does seem close, but I couldn't get one off without damage to find out... B
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Hi Greg! I was wondering who the hell he was talking about! AFAIK, on the 1994 and 1995, you can just unbolt the mud flaps from the fender flares, but you might need to scrape some mud to find them. 1995 XE sans mudflaps B
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No, it is either 1999.5+ or 2001+ (post facelift or the VQ35 motor change) that the design changes and they are not cross compatable. They look different, and can not be easily removed when the locking screw is loosened (probably anti-theft reasons). I know, I tried... 1996-1999.0 should be identical, so see if you can get a picture of it, side view of the mount and screw should tell you if it is the same... B
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LOL Well, with the SFD you also need tires (and probably rims) as well. Still in the $2k range? Since you want to go up, how about some new springs all the way around, spacers courtesy of fleurys, new shocks and then figure out what lights or other upgrades (tranny cooler/temp gauge, power inverter, under armor) you want. Personally, I'm not a big fan of roof baskets unless you actually use it all the time and need it. They are just air drag and weight up high. Rather figure out how to minimize, pack better or do with less IMO. B
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You have 10.5" tires on 12" rims? Better not ever plan to air down! I like the rims, and yeah, free helps, but AFAIK you have the ratio backwards, the rim should be more narrow than the tires. They do stick out a bit, but not obnoxiously so. I question how much rim lip protection you have though. In the first picture it looks like the front is to low, was that pre-lift? I can't really comment on the BJ spacers as I haven't used them. I tend to avoid all spacers (BJ, wheel, etc), but what I have read is an equal mix if 'works great' and 'didn't help/had problems'. Generally speaking, the true Poor Mans Lift is just springs in the back and T-bar raising in the front, that generally seems to be enough... B
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Is there a webpage that one can use to see an illustrated parts assembly for this WD21 unit that would show the "t-case" and the wiring plug " transfer case engagement switch" . Go to the Garage section right off of the main page of the forum, and look in the pinned topics. Enter the one called Factory Service Manuals and follow the links to download your own free PDF copy, it will be incredibly helpful for the entire time you have your Pathy. I'm sure that many didn't post for the same reason I didn't, they weren't sure. The tendency here is to give good info, not clog threads with suppositions or conflicting information. Most people don't mind guessing, but only when that is what is asked for. It was only a day+, right? FAL .308? I'm jealous; I am not trusted with such things in my state... Follow the above directions to get your copy of the FSM, and it will show you. B
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The suspension differences are by model, so year only matters when it crosses that boundary. The one exception that I know of is 2001, when the R50 got the VQ35; there were a few suspension/drive train changes then. Holy crap, 12" wide rims? What do you have mounted? I have 15x8" rims with 4" back spacing and 10.5x31" tires on it. The tires just barely protrude from the wheel wells, yours must stick out quite a bit... B
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Dealing with pathfinder running too lean intermittently?
Precise1 replied to Quaintbucket's topic in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
The R50 (1996 on up) is OBD2 with 4 O2 sensors. You are right though, the WD21 system with the single O2 sensor wouldn't have a clue... B -
Ok, the steering rack and pinion, that makes sense now. No need to apologize, my mistake as well for not thinking that might be what you were talking about. Yes, as long as there are no leaks, you should be able to just replace the boots, but that might be a dealership item. I covered about 3/4 of Baja in two different trips, mainly camping out and snorkling. About the only places I haven't been are inbetween Mexicali and San Felipe, and the section between Bahia de Los Muertos and San Juanico. A lot of formidible desert to cross down there... I didn't see a lot of Pathfinders, but this was 20 years ago. They do appreciate Nissan reliability though, the D720 trucks were everywhere. (probably because they don't overheat easily) B
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Correct. It isn't just the tire size, it is the rim width and backspacing that is just as important of a factor. Some people run 33" tires on the stock aluminum rims and only need to do a little trimming or lifting, and the even mostly tuck into the rear wheel wells. Personally I like the wider rims with less backspacing for the wider stance (better lateral stability and can keep you off of obstacles) bit then I only run 31" tires with a 2+2 lift, so no chance of rubbing at all. The suspension is the same on all the models other than the adjustable shocks on the SEs, and there are only two types of rims, 6" steel chromies and 7" aluminum legos. Well, I can't recall if the LE has different rims. B
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Leo, why would you have front drive shafts, CVs or a differential if it is 2wd? 2wd just have a rear drive axle and that is solid. As for the front end parts, what has been listed is most of it. I highly recommend jacking it up, supporting it well and wiggling things around to try to see what is loose. It could just be that your alignment is off and needs to be done when you replace the tires. You are right, I have spent a few months down in Baja (drove to Cabo once) and the roads can be pretty bad! It only takes a few large potholes to knock a front end out of alignment sometimes. Depends on how hard you hit them and just how big they are. B
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Good job! Don't worry about the wheeling, you'll have plenty of fun regardless. Make sure you have a few memory sticks for your camera and take lots of pictures. A trick I learned on a 6000 mile motorcycle trip was to go into a photo shop when your memory cards are full and have them burn the pictures on CDs for you, then mail the CD's to your home. When are you leaving and where are you going? B
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Dealing with pathfinder running too lean intermittently?
Precise1 replied to Quaintbucket's topic in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
I would start with a proper tune up first, clean the MAF and check the resistance for the coolant temp sensor against the FSM listed values, check for any vacuum leaks and exhaust leaks. Yes, failure to ignite would mean rich, except that the o2 sensor would tell the ECU which would lean that side out. Closed loop system means you need to make sure the systems are all working properly, and that includes dizzy cap/rotor, wires and plugs. It only takes a few minutes to pull the #1 plug to get an idea. I have seen this... Assumed original at over 400k kms. Yeah, it ran, but it ran much better with new plugs... B -
Good idea, you'll find many uses for it. Doesn't have to be anything fancy either. While I do have a decent one with non-contact voltage sensing, the one in my travel bag I get free from Farbor Freight (cheap Chinese crap) but they are good enough for any automotive/household use, as long as they work. Probably why I have several NIB; I'd send you one if you were closer... http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=multimeter internationalorders@harborfreight.com B
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Yes, those will work fine, many people have installed them. There is nothing wrong with installing spacers like what Fleurys makes, but if your springs are old and worn, you'll just have a taller pathy that still wallows around. Our R50 with almost 180k miles on it has the original suspension and rides/handles like a 1974 Coupe Deville. No way would I put in any spacers, etc without replacing/upgrading the springs; it is just the right way to do it. B
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Same one I have and yeah, I don't think it was meant for 10" deep plug wells. The compression is good enough, I'd rule that out, and I suspect that the timing belt should be ok as well. Check the wiring harness to the injectors on that side... B
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91 pathfinder intermittent stalling under acceleration (Not dieing)
Precise1 replied to msavides's topic in The Garage
LOL I ran the AC the last two days which means it was hot here; that means it is hellish in the central valley! No AC in the garage? B -
That weight should be fine, it really isn't that much of a difference. Check the bottle of what you put in to see if it has the friction modifier that the LSD mneeds. If not, that is almost certainly the source of the noises you hear and needs to be addressed ASAP. I don't know what the ratio is for the additive, but I'm sure you can figure it out by following their directions. I would still check what you did put in first though. Don't feel too bad, those are probably the most commonly neglected fluids, along side power steering fluid and often brake fluid. Any time I buy a used vehicle, the first thing that gets changed is all of those and rarely has it not been needed. B
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That's what you want. B
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I'd have to take some measurements, but the hinge walls aren't very thick and most taps need 2-3 turns for full thread (lead) meaning you wouldn't have fully formed threads to screw the grease fitting into before the tap bottomed out. I've modified some taps to work within .04-.08" (1-2mm) of bottom depending on thread pitch, but it usually doesn't work like that. B
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Installing a hi lift jack on a tire carrier
Precise1 replied to NIssanBoston's topic in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Sorry, I only know the WD21 version, but if the R50 version is built the same, I'd say 200lbs without effort. Show us a picture of it... B -
Kenny Loggins meets Foreigner? B
