Precise1

Looks pretty good to me! Other than the gauges and some of the center dash panel, that interior is identical to our 1999.0 R50, and I find it quite comfortable and adequate. I see it even has heated seats... If there is nothing wrong with it, that is quite a good deal in my book, and no they don't have endless electrical problems what I know of and the auto TC seems to work fine as well (but ours has the old school shifter). Sorry, I have no reason to scare you off... B

I can drop them off at dealerships, some auto parts stores or bag them up well and leave them curbside for the local trash/recycling agency to pick up weekly. The benefits of society... Actually, the best thing is to dig them a shallow grave in the yard, the closer to the well, the better. B

Part of what is being missed here is that when you drain your engine oil not all of it comes out, no matter how long you have the plug removed. There are all sorts of little areas where it collects and stays, and colors the new oil that is added. That doesn't mean the flush didn't clean the inside of the case well, it means you mixed some of the old, suspended gunk with the new oil. When I flushed my motor (with a additive like what you describe) and drained it, I changed the filter, put in cheap oil, drove it normally for a few days, then drained it and changed the oil/filter with quality synthetic. The first oil change still had quite a bit of color and smell to it, the second looked and smelled clean. Also, ATF is really hydraulic fluid, not an oil, even though it does lubricate to some extent. The two systems are totally different, and ATF is not intended to run at engine temperatures. Now that you have run an engine flush product, I think you would be far better off just changing the oil/filter until you have flushed all the old liquids out and the new oil is clear. B

I don't know if that is true or not, but they may still have higher production standards even if it is subcontracted. I have had decent luck with them. Moog seems to hit or miss, with a lot of missing lately. As for the third, I don't buy anything that sounds like a virus... B

Shouldn't be any shortage of volunteers... Any pictures of the product? B

Yes, the dizzy is adjustable. 15 deg BTC is the setting for the VG30E, I'm assuming it is the same for VG30I. Might want to make sure there is no play in the dizzy shaft... B

A 1992 is MPFI, just like yours. Definitely remove the wheel and go in that way as well. It will allow some acccess and help you see. You'll probably wind up snaking your right hand in from the back as well. Just be patient... B

Just not what you (or I) are used to... How do you like that thing? Any feedback for the forum in general? B

Yep, you are right, but he mentions Maxima seats right after that so my memory isn't completely earelephant... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/30906-seat-swap/?p=585760 B

Damn, how long did the PO kennel jackals in it? Well, the bright side is that it shouldn't be hard to find better ones, and if the color doesn't match, just throw some covers on them. B

I'm pretty sure JJ_Big_Shoe put some Maxima seats in his and only had to move one rail, or something else minor. Barring that, just look around for better Pathy seats; they should be easy to find and I hear the SE seats are more comfy. Glad you are keeping your beater. B

I had no idea they went that low, that is absolutely pointless! You would get stuck with one tire on wet grass... B

FJ600 had a vibration that he couldn't solve and it did turn out to be a tire. He took it somewhere that did something like 'road force balance' and determined it was the tire. Have this done before you replace them. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/37527-vibrationwobble/?p=721139 As for popping, the WD21's have a noise issue where the front cross member needs to be retorqued, so perhaps you need to do this with some of the sub frame fasteners? Just a gues... B

Nice flex picture though! Apparently the break away force varied a bit over the years, with 1994 and/or 1995 having the stiffest although I do not recall the exact numbers. Once the R50s were made, the amount of required force was reduced by roughly 1/2. Yes, the e-brake trick can help sometimes and as txpath4x4 stated, sometimes just dragging the normal brakes does the same thing, and on many different vehicles. It was a standard 'trick' with past American sedans as well. B

Ah, yes, the chop top 2 door! A few people have done the same, with varying success. It looks like you rolled the sheet metal where you cut it? As for the hub, I'd take a look at the wheel bearings (and check/clean up the auto hubs while you are there). I recommend going to the Garage section, into the pinned Factory Service Manual thread, and downloading the 1994 version (the earliest one). The exploded view and tech info is pretty much the same as what is on your year, so it should tell you all you need to know. Welcome to NPORA Preston! B Wait, is that a 1990 2 door with the MPFI VG30E? If so, you just chopped up a rare beast, something like only 500 were made...

Were you at TDC for cyl #1 when all the marks were aligned? Who knows what the PO did... As for the pully having more marks, maybe it isn't the original motor or pulley? B

Use a regulator. Another trick is to use a quart bottle that has a nozzle type tip. You can hold it sideways and squirt 1/2 the bottle in at a time by squeezing it. You have to stop and refill a few times, but it will get you there as well without using anything other than what is on hand. B

The FSM states ATF for the later years and gear oil for the earlier years. B

Yes, I understand that, but you probably have to take the piece out to examine it. I know this has been discussed in a thread here... Have you looked at the exploded view? B

They do make several brands of engine case flushes, so why mess with snake oils? I'm not an expert and rarely use them, but did with our R50 when the first oil change made it seem neglected. I put in the flush, ran it 5-15 minutes warm without load (as per instructions), drained it, filled it up with cheap oil, drove it a day, drained it, filled it up with Mobil1 and a new M1 filter. If that doesn't do it, you have other issues. Yes, just changing the oil regularly with quality oil should be sufficient, and is worth the difference in price. B

So, all the gears you have to pull back for... The shifter sits in a plastic guide IIRC which can be worn/damaged. If it is, it might not be allowing enough throw to engage those gears. Go to the Garage section and down load a 1994 FSM from the pinned thread, then look in the MT section for an exploded view to see. I'm guessing that removing the shifter, looking and a trip to the junkyard will get you back on the road. B

I wouldn't call 24" deep unless footing was uncertain down there (not downplaying it though). Check the diffs/breather lines, lube everything, and maybe repack the wheel bearings if it hasn't been done in a while? The Pathfinders should be able to handle something like that without issue though. Just for next time, if you stall out/get stuck and the water is above the bottom door line , it could leak in and wet the ECU under the seat. Then you have problems! Might want to relocate it... Why are there no pictures?? B

I agree with Adam, a little noise shouldn't hurt anything as the belt will stretch slightly. I helped with a timing belt on an inlaws R50 and it whined a little at first as well. I believe K9sar went to the other extreme where his was so tight it broke the tensioner bolt? Been a while... B

You can do that with the key as well, you just turn it clockwise about 1/8 of a turn, not all the way. You can feel/hear it... B

If the little sticker isn't there to clue you in, you'd probably only find out by mistake. These are the best fixes. B