PeteyPathy

Got a friends help, he put thumb over vcv idles perfect, take thumb off goes to crap. Went to u-pull it 6 pathys all 90 or newer ? Cleaned MAF when i replaced TPS and CPS it didn't appear dirty or gummed up at all. Update, i couldn't use loaner ride anymore so decided since I know whats wrong with it to go ahead and drive mine. It has decided to run right again all by itself.... Just like it decided to be stupid. Maybe i loosed up whatever was sticking vcv open or something... I don't know!

Looking into the throttle body to the right of injector is a port inside neck of TB reach a stiff piece of wire in there and push the plunger down. Its not vac line it's a primary vac port, allows unmetered air in large quantities. Truck behaves like it has collapsed intake gasket. But it passed the ether test, several times.

No it isn't fuel related.

I know it's not answer you want but I'd buy generic connectors and replace both sides. If you do this remember to cut the harness side back several inches if possible and add in a couple inches new wire to replace the length you loose by clipping old connection out. You don't want to put new connection in and have it come up half inch short of plugging together!

Ahardb0dy was nice enough to get me a working link for FSM. I'm now 90% certain my problem is VCV. Never would have found it without FSM THANK YOU!!!! It's either sticking open or spring is weak. After cleaning with contact cleaning spray it will now idle (barely)

https://www.dropbox.com/s/5zxwrnxnmrni55q/2014-04-05%2010.41.03.jpg Stock 2dr 4x4

Yes vg30i

Haven't seen a sticker. Haven't really thought to look for one either though. I'm interested mainly in vacuum associated with the TB seems to be originating there hard to tell 100% though. The vac lines are all new already i found 1 that was too long and got against belt which cut hole in it, repaired that one. If you can scan vac diagram and maybe TB diagram that would be awesome! I'll PM my email. I'm just hoping against hope that it's not manifold leak. Though that will give me chance to fix couple of things that i couldn't get too cause under intake.

Cleaned all grounds, no change, checked ECU connection and MAF both look good. Found one blick ground disconnected, made new ground to replace it. Update i have now isolated it to a vacuum leak, but seems to be either a solenoid or actuator. With vac gauge on it i can rev way up and slowly back off shows no vac and runs like a$$ till suddenly whistling dies down, vac comes up, if I hold throttle steady at that point (usually around 2500 rpm) then as smooths out rpms come up about 1k and runs right for 10-15 sec until whistling fades back in and runs bad again. It sounds like whistling is coming from throttle body but can't be sure as need someone to keep it running while I search for source. Does anyone have full vac diagram for 87 they can give me please?

Thanks for the suggestion.

Probably a positive i think. I see it all the time at my work. Battery terminal anti corrosive on a small paint brush works well to neutralize this kind of problem. I would be hesitant to scrape it because it is ecu pin if corrosion has weakened it enough pin may break off. Paint it heavily and when you plug it in will transfer to other side of connection eliminating all corrosive

Lol DO NOT use your mouth to suck or blow on that tube ROFL you'll drink some really nasty stuff! A piece of soft wire works well (i use bailing wire coat hanger i had was too stiff to make the bend). You can't actually get to drain from airbox without removing a/c evap core but its always a good idea to clean out blower compartment and front face of evap core you'll be amazed how much better your a/c can work.

Can you give me a rough idea where grounds are supposed to be located? I'll definitely check that. At this point if someone said put 2 aspirin and a cup of coffee in fuel tank i just might try it lmao

Here it goes. I'm desperate for advice guys. 87 2door 4x4 309k!on way to work couple weeks ago stopped at c-store truck ran great. Came out of store truck cranked and died. So what the hell its never done this before? Cranked it and feathered throttle got RPMs worked up (thank god she's a stick shift) limped her to work. It has had a CPS code since I bought it. Pulled codes showing different CPS code and TPS code, tested coil it tested bad, while changing coil found resin on back of ICM melted, that's never good. Replaced TPS ICM and CPS as well as coil. Fired her up started good, died. Can feather throttle and get reved up, once up about about 3k it runs pretty good but no power. So i went to checking vacuum lines found 1 that wasn't secured and had gotten against belt replaced this, otherwise looks like PO had replaced all vac line they are in very good condition. Pulled and checked EGR didn't look so good so i made blocker plate to stop egr flow in case it really was stuck open. When i get it running was putting out very strong gas smell now smells very lean. In process of installing CPS found 2 plug wires that distributor end was almost corroded off, replaced the 3 plug wires on that side and gapped plugs. I had already replaced 3 on other side previously because they were taped together by PO, just hadn't gotten around to doing driverside. I also sprayed through MAF air passage with electric contact cleaner. I noticed that only 1 injector is firing, after a rigged up a way to keep it running while i was under the hood, is this normal? Any help you guys can lend will be greatly appreciated! Peter

Another possibility (my first thought reading original post) is ignition module. It will cause exactly the symptoms you're describing. Don't usually throw a code in my experience but could feasibly be your problem.