Precise1

That is good news so far. How much difflection is there if you move a fin back and forth (at fin tip)? Without being there, the best bet is to have it changed before it affects the water pump, B

Then they should both work with the 02 the more desirable, condition being equal. B

That is odd, he is normally somewhat active. Hopefully nothing bad happened... Sorry, I have not had any contact. B

I've not done the trail, but from what I have heard that set up wouldn't be a good idea, especially without a winch. You'd spend most of your time taking bypasses or getting dragged up sections. B

^Exactly... B

That would be lose, with one 'o', meaning to be deprived of rather than unbound or free. Also, wouldn't it be griping, with one 'p', meaning complaining rather than to hold tightly? You got piddly right though... I just point that out because I'm condecending and snarky. In all reality enkrypt3d, I've given you much time and many straight answers (not just in this thread) and only questioned you when you talked nonsense, and even that was no attack. I've tried to engage you via PM which you did not respond to, which is where this sort of thing belongs according to the forum rules. If that is not sufficient, then I am sorry to waste both our time. I'll go help others... This thread seems to have run it's course. Does the OP want it closed? B

I have seen very wobbly fan clutches before, Nissans included. It doesn't take too much play to equal an inch at the blade tips with slight force. Obviously check the bolts, but if the fan clutch is loose and the water pump shaft doesn't move, that is what it is. Hard to say if it will hold together without knowing what is loose... B

Good thing to remember in the future. I'm glad you got it dealt with... B

COngrats on the Sammy! Not as all versatile as a Pathy, but maybe on par with a hardbody? Still, it'll be better out on the trails... Good luck with it, and with finding that just right Pathy as well. As was said, no reason to be a stranger so show us some Sammy wheeling picts! (In the Off Topic section of course) B

For the top radiator hose? Metal or plastic? Nope, just the filler cap lip (lid wouldn't stay on). I prefer the worm drive myself, I generally only use the spring clamps on barbed fittings. I've never heard of anyone breaking things with them before. More likely just material fatigue or manufacturing flaw? B

Good to hear! B

Nice! Grease the U joints, make sure you have 25%+ brake pads left, replace the air and fuel filter, and check the spare tire for inflation/condition. Are you car camping it? You traveling alone or with someone? Depending on what you are planning, keeping the back seats folded down and removing the bottoms will give you a little more room. If you make it out to Northern California, drop by and say hi. B

Aren't you the one who asked for the information in the first place? B

I wouldn't complain about those numbers from a motor with 200k on it! As for the #6 plug, if you don't have the factory tool, use a spark plug socket (with the rubber keeper inside), a 6" extension a ratchet, a marker and an inspection mirror. With either one, my proceedure is the same. Remove the spark plug boot, and look with the mirror. Put the socket and extension in place on the spark plug and draw a line on the firewall from the top of the extension upward for about an inch or two at the same angle of the extension. Put the ratchet on the extension (handle in your left hand) and remove the spark plug. Put the new spark plug into the socket with extension only and put the end into the hole by watching in the mirror. Then align the extension to the mark you previously make and spin it with your fingers, starting the threads. You'll feel when it is right... Snug it with the ratchet and give it another quarter turn or so to flatten the crush washer and you are done. A couple of tricks: When you remove the old plug, stop 1/2 way, remove the socket and look with the mirror/blow the well out with compressed air and extension to clear any debris so it won't fall into the cylinder. Before you put the new plug in check the gap and put a little anti-sieze on the threads to make sure it doesn't sieze in the aluminum heads. B

I can't believe there is any difference in tensioners because they are just idler bearing, you set the tension yourself so it shouldn't care what belt it is against. I guess they figured the vehicle would be at a dealership or shop that either had both on hand or could order the right part quickly. Still, just wait until the new model year with things like that! B

They get recycled here, but I have no idea if that means re-using parts or just as scrap. B

There is a thread around here that details OAL, number of coils and wire diameter... IIRC .59 is the thickest JGC wire diameter and would be what you want to get the most lift. I do not have the measurements on mine, but they easily gave me 3" of lift when I put them in as the 4th owner in my first Pathy, now maybe 2.5" in my second. B

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Tense much? If DT decided to modify/change it, I'm sure it was for good reason. There have been a few cases of cracking with their headers but that seems to be few and far between. I'm just going by about a decade people installing the headers pre-mod, and my personal experience. Yes, the EGR tube is easy to slightly bend if so desired, and another trick is to loosen the top tube mount as well to get maximum positioning flexability. B

Again, that link has nothing to do with VG30E and short tube heders. Please try to stay focused on the topic and not parrot theory. Do you realize what the difference between headers and a manifold is? Can you explain it in one normal sentence? Yes, these are your assumptions and should be recognised as such. Yes, your basic comprehension is along the right lines but as usual, the numbers you come up with and assertions you state as fact are unsupported or incorrect. Some things just don't change... B

How is it that you talk about "modern exhaust manifolds" when you are talking about a design from the late 1980's? It certainly has nothing to do with Pathfinders, the subject here, and posting a link detailing a high performance V* from a sports car that comes tuned from the factoryis silly at best. Once again, your claim of 'very marginal gain' in the Pathfinder application is purely your speculation. I suggest you contact the people at Doug Thorley headers and advise them of their errors. I'm sure they would appreciate your advice that they stop making their 'prettied up manifolds' and will act on it immediately! B

Yes, the mileage increase is only on the R50 when you replace the permanent drive flanges. The CV's do not turn on a WD21 unless it is in 4x4 or locked in with manual hubs. Only by a nose! It would have been a draw if it wasn't for the photo finish... B

Make sure to drain everything out of the radiator and engine case. Yes, I would drain it, put in some fresh (cheap) oil and crank the starter for a while. Maybe even pull the plugs and put a bit of oil in the cylinder and crank it as well, but that might make the first start hard. You should be able to remove the valve cover and cycle it by hand to see if all the valves are lifting all the way. That should tell you if it has interfered. If there is no timing chain hole, then you would almost have to pull the head to make sure that isn't the problem. B

Yes, that is all fairly generic, standard info that can be looked up on the internet. In the case of the Doug Thorley headers which is what we are speaking of... You still haven't justified this statement, which is patently false. Even the video you posted talked about torque gains from short tube headers and midrange/upper end HP gains from long tube headers. Between that and the ground clearance issues mentioned, it seems that unless you just race around on the freeway, the short tubes would be the more desirable. Thank you for providing the real information in the video though. And then there is that whole polution thing... They are still made for the TBI versions. http://dougthorleyheaders.com/products/searchType/vehicleSearch/year/1988/make/NISSAN_SLASH_DATSUN/model/PATHFINDER/sfID1/9/sfID2/40/sfID3/31/productID/906 Yep, that is what we are trying to fix here. B

I'm not familiar with the VQ motor, so I can't answer your question, but you might be able to look it up in the Factory Service Manual. Go here to download your own copy. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Pathfinder/ B Seems you already have a copy. That is what I get for walking away mid-post...