Precise1

Yes, slow memory and yes, bolt length. B

Good info to have. What I find strange is that in their application PDF they list round and square toothed sprockets for both 1993 and 1994 when I'm pretty sure only 1993 had both types, and that they list a change interval for the round tooth type of 60k while the factory recommendation is 105k (one of the reasons to have a later model year or do a pulley swap). Also, they show a 60k change interval for 1996 and a 105k interval for 1997-1998 even though both are round toothed and the belt number is the same. Luckily, we know better... B

Best news I've heard all day! B

Where are you located? Are there Firestone dealers there? They have lifetime alignments, so it is in their interest to do it right (some people have had issues). The biggest thing is not to jack up the vehicle as it unloads the T-bars and when they settle (24 hours/some driving usually) geometry are different again. No magic to it, just dont jack it up and/or bounce it/drive it around the parking lot betwen adjustments. Any good shop should be able to handle it, but ask the right questions first. Everything else can be fine but if it is misaligned, it can shake (think crappy shopping cart). B

^This! Download the FSM from the pinned thread in the Garage section if you haven't done so already, then open the AT file and go to page 12 or so. It gets real about page 19, but just gloss it all, it can't hurt. Did you wiggle any wires? B

Any more info you can give us? That's not much to go on. ^Mr Beer has it right though... My thoughts are: Timing belt jump or break isn't going to make it sputter and die, it is either going to keep sputtering or just die. Definitely do the rotor check, but I doubt it. Wiggle sensor connections to see if it comes back to life. Check the ECU for fault codes, sometimes it helps a lot. Fuel issue, the wiring to the fuel pump under the hatch in the back, the fuel filter or pressure regulator. B

Did you have it aligned? That is an important step... B

Viaja seguro y vaya con Dios amiga. B

That isn't really a definitive test... Maybe on your local trails, but that statement just showed your limited experience. B

Got it! No wonder it looked familiar, the wife was from Fresno and I've been up and down HWY 99 way too many times. B

Most of the good places are. I'd like to find something like that, but it would automatically be a long drive as well. South/Western US? I've seen a lot of land that looks like that... B

Nice range... B

Sorry, I wasn't clear about it. Turn off OD off road and under 30-35 mph on road and when in hilly terrain (up hill at least) on the highway or freeway. OD just pretty much just for relatively flat cruising... Yes, the tranny will tend to shift up, even at low speeds, that is why you have the option to select the top gearing for the situation. You are doing it right, other than reading too much into 'automatic transmission'; it simply can't automatically select the best gear/rpm for every situation, that is asking too much. Try playing with the 'power' switch as well. B

You are actually supposed to turn off overdrive when under load in hilly terain. Define 'enough power' and 'worth the money' please, it is probably different for everyone. If replacing the exhaust nets you 10 hp, it doesn't sound like much but it is a 7% gain, just different ways of looking at it... My WD21 with a stock motor, Thorley headers and custom exhaust has a bit better throttle response and more power than before. B

I'll bet it wasn't the cleaning that fixed it (no harm though), it was moving the wires/disconnecting/reconnecting it. That wiring, amongst others, can be problematic after it ages. If you have that issue again, just try moving the wiring/connector while it is running first. Good job on checking the codes and dealing with the problem. B

Check the battery ground strap connections, the cable to the starter and the starter connection. What is the voltage at the starter when you try to crank it and only get a click? What is the voltage of the battery at rest and what is the voltage when you try to crank it? Have your battery load tested? All the little lights can come on when the battery isn't strong enough to crank the starter, the starter is far more draw... B

235/75/15 are actually 29" diameter (theoretically). Yes, I'd definitely upgrade to 30 or 31" tires but don't feel alone, many people have talked about 3k rpm @ 65mph over the years. Too damn high, if you ask me... I'm not sure where you got your info, but those numbers are also extremely low. What is with swapping diffs to get 4.375 gears as well? Please clarify, because this looks like misinformation... B

Here is a free .rar extractor from a reliable source. http://download.cnet.com/Free-RAR-Extract-Frog/3000-2250_4-10804840.html You are right, this should be pinned. Thanks for posting it! B

Yep, I bet on the Pathy as well. 1/2 as fast but 150% the mileage... RHD shouldn't be an issue unless you are passing, but what does a diesel Pathy pass that isn't parked? Sorry you had to learn this the hard way, but maybe it will help someone in the future. It seems crazy that Texas makes it so difficult, but maybe it is just a revenue generator. Don't worry too much, you are almost done with this. At this point, anything can be worked out. You aren't crazy for doing this either. It makes sense that you want to bring something familiar and trusted to your new country; I give you credit for figuring it out and seeing it through. Good luck, and share some pictures when you get her home. B

I doubt that too... That idle sounds better, but the 1900rpm is still quite low @65. You must have the HG43 (4.36 IIRC) gearing, and paired with the auto and the 32" tires gives you that. Well, if it ain't broke... B

And kill the last of the two touching brain cells... I started up the little stomper, charged the battery, rolled down the windows for the day and swore I'd finish the bumper measurements next week so I can bolt it back on, fix the brakes and drive it again. I miss it... B

Welcome to NPORA, sorry that a problem brought you here. For the record, no, that is not a common issue. I'd recommend downloading the FSM from the pinned thread in the Garage section (1994 will work for almost all mechanical applications), then going to the Garage/How To section and learning how to check the ECU for codes. You can do the same thing for the auto-tranny, the info is in the FSM. Have you checked the tranny fluid level and condition? Could the tranny have gotten hot? Sometimes the stock cooler in the radiator gets clogged and needs to be cleaned or bypassed. I'm going to move this to the WD21 section for greater visibility... B

You are missing the all important 5th one. B

*one (more) vote for Yokohama Geolander AT-S though. Make sure to look at it* B

Nice, those are pretty much the values the manual describes for proper function. You are welcome, I'm glad it was a simple fix. We've all missed things, gotten frustrated, needed another set of eyes, opinion, etc. A big key can be to walk away, cool off, start over and don't assume anything. It should pass as long as everything else is working properly, but make sure to drive it enough to prove the problem is gone and the ECU to 'relearn'. B