Precise1

I thought there was a gasket for the retainer? B

My last post was for msavides. The air filter could be part of the problem, but how did you bench test the O2 sensor? You really need to test it's range, and when in doubt, replace it. Again, since everything else is working correctly, running lean and/or hot must be the issue. Get a chance to look at a plug yet? B

Ok, this is how far I've gotten so far. I'm stuck at trying to get the stupid software to mirror the solids about centerline, but at this point I'm wondering if the old POS code even supports it! Bad comes to worse, I can either model a 1/2 bumper and you can just X2, or I can start over, again. Anyway, I'm pissed and need to walk away from it for a bit. At least I can dimension from this so it isn't a total loss... B

The knock sensor code is generally a symptom, not a cause; that is what it is there for. Since you just changed a valve cover gasket, look for cause and effect. I'd bet because it is intermittent, it is electrical (mechanical doesn't fix it's self). You probably disturbed some of the wiring/connectors for the injectors, coil and a few sensors when you changed the gasket. Check whatever wires/connectors you moved/disconnected for any corrosion or loose pins/wires. Don't be afraid to drive, stop, wiggle a connector, drive, repeat as needed. If you mess with everything at once, you'll never know what it was if it goes away... A friend was over doing some work on his WD21, and I showed him the coolant temp sensor and wiggled the connector. The truck was warming up before he left, and when it reached ECU closed loop operating temp, it died like Elvis on a toilet and wouldn't start again. We took that connector apart, cleaned and tightened the wire/pin contacts, reinstalled it and it fired up perfectly and has been running fine for 9 months... B

So you are high on hydrocarbons which is running rich, oil blow by and/or dirty oil. Considering you changed the O2 and Cat and it dropped, I'll bet it was the O2 sensor. Next time, just put that one in, I'll bet it will pass (with clean oil) and leave it there. Might want to consider replacing the coolant temp sensor as well. My 1995 had 23ppm and 35ppm respectively at idle and 2500 rpm, so they can run a lot cleaner than that. B

And sometimes the lift components need more shims to be aligned properly, thereby needing a longer bolt for full thread engagement, 30mm length IIRC, but I'd verify that. B

Yep, you are retarded... Just Kidding, but yes, there is a seal retainer that gets removed, the seal replaced, then the retainer re-installed with a new gasket. B

At this point I'd pull a spark plug or two to see what condition they are in and if it tells you anything about the fuel ratio (black, tan, etc). Make sure it isn't running to hot or lean and clean/check the Air Flow Meter, Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor, and O2 sensor B.

I run the NGK G power (platinum) only because they are supposed to reduce required voltage and help lower emissions. I have no idea if this is true, but they are cheap enough, work great and last a long time. The Iridiums are overkill from what I understand. B

Ok, so the good news is that I've found and installed the CAD today and got started on the drawings. The bad news is that after 2 years of not using it, I've become rather incompetent so this might take a while... Actually, it is coming back to me fairly quickly after a shakey start, but after 2 hours of work, I recalled one key technique just a moment too late: Make sure you save the files often, because when the program crashes you'll lose everything! It is ok, that was just the learning curve and it will only take me about 20 minutes to get back to where I was. I'll post the mounting information first, and then work my way up the rest of the bumper. A good refresher course... B

^From a man who knows! Even Worse! You have to realize that the enemy has no care for, or possibly even comprehension of such things as logic, consistency, rationality, fairness, quarter given, give and take, shared blame or truces. You might as well be battling the undead... I highly recommend practicing key strategies such as selective hearing, feigning ignorance/stupidity, mimicing snoring while awake, and always keeping a vehicle clear and pointing out of the driveway while keeping the key on your person at all times, even in the shower... Sure you could, but would it be worth it? B

If it is the stock version, the bushings in it are plastic and can be bought seperately, so unless the old one was bent or damaged, they are easily and cheaply rebuildable. If it is the same type, I'd try to press/tap the arm off, maybe the bushings were installed backwards or horribly overtightened... B

I hope I didn't say that, the 10-14 ohms refers to the injector resistance test! Look in the FSM in the EC section, have you checked the ECU for stored codes? If so/there aren't any, keep reading under the diagnostic procedures, there is a whole series that talk about engine hunting, stumbling, etc and what diagnostic steps to take. Ask about anything you don't understand, but please reference a page or diagnostic... B

Yeah, I parted out my first WD21 and upgraded my second considerably. I plan to keep this one for a long time, so I made sure to keep a lot of critical parts. About the only things I don't have spare is a dizzy and an ECU but I'm actively looking to add them to the collection as well. Like my description says, I'm in Santa Rosa, up in the North Bay or Wine Country how ever you want to look at it, 50 miles North of SF. Not too bad a price so far! Sucks that you in a bit of a bind, but it sounds like you know what you are doing and are on the right track. I'll help how I can... B

Especially when you have an external carrier! (I still buy 5 matching even if you can't see it and as long as it fits). B

Ok, Modesto is a bit far. The reason I asked is because I have spare (used but functional) MAF, CAT, O2 sensor, etc. Sounds like the EGR is working, but yes, can't hurt to make sure it isn't partially blocked. There is another test in the FSM (and perhaps more info), have you downloaded it from the pinned topic in the Garage section yet? The earliest year is 1994, but it is pretty much all the same under the hood. I'm not familiar with Chemtool but you might not want to use harsh solvents on the diaphram. Any metal parts should be ok, and a bore brush or rod might help make sure any pipes/orifices are clear. Definitely look for vacuum leaks because if the vacuum isn't getting to the EGR valve... Visual inspection followed by a flammable test (spray around with WD-40, brake cleaner, etc) with the engine running. If the idle surges, you have found a leak. The O2 sensor doesn't necessarily trip the CEL if it stays within the voltage range (0-1volt IIRC) but it might be stuck at one voltage which misinforms the ECU. Alcohol and a Q-tip for the MAF element, just be gentle. All the info is here. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/5194-how-to-cleaning-your-maf-sensor/ B

So, chase the threads with a roll tap or helicoil it. It'll solve the problem and you won't be spraying NOX everywhere. In all honesty, our 1999.0 runs flawlessly with the EGR in place, so I don't understand how it would run better. Slightly better mileage I could understand, but how much difference did you see over an extended period of driving? B

Cool, glad you found one. I insist on 5 matching rims myself... B

Ok, it sounds like you are ok, and they might last reasonably long. The option would be to shorten the sleeve a little as well. Personally, I think those bushings should be a 60k mile/5 year maintenance item at least. I have seen so many broken, rusted through, bushing cups gone and holes ovaled out that it is rediculous! B

That might be a tough one as the manuals were mainly available digitally starting in 1994, and who knows what changes were made in those 6 years. That can also be downloaded from the pinned thread at the top of the Garage section. B

^Bingo! Although failing that badly might not be just the EGR. Is everything else in tune and working well? Does the exhaust smell funny (sulfurous or like rotten eggs)? That might mean the cat is failing as well. Cleaning the MAF might help and possibly the O2 sensor is causing the engine to run lean. Here read this... http://www.smogtips.com/failed-high-NO-nitrous-oxide.cfm Where in NorCal are you? B

Ok, I guess line pressure then. Determine the out line (IIRC the drivers side, but please verify that) that leads to the cooler in the radiator. Remove the rubber hose from the out side connecting to the hard return line and put it in a bucket (something holding it in place). Fire it up for 5 seconds (no gas just idle) and shut it off. Measure/estimate the amount of fluid and return it to the tranny. Remove the out line and put it in the bucket, run for 5 seconds, measure it and compare... This is a crude test to see of the radiator cooler is clogged, and it will be messy. The other option is to just plug the out line into the in line and see if it goes away, but you risk flushing crap directly back into the tranny that way. If the cooler is clogged, you can back flush it with a cleaner from Nissan or just bypass it into an aftermarket cooler like many of us do. Just to cover all bases, the tranny is properly filled and with the correct type of fluid? Nissan D-matic (IIRC) or Dextron/Merkon3 ? B I'm moving this to the Garage section for better exposure...

A helicoil is a coil of stainless metal that effectively has threads in the inside and outside and are thread/pitch specific. What you do is drill out the hole a bit larger, tap it with a helicoil tap (oversized) and then screw the helicoil into the threaded hole until it is flush or recessed to the top of the hole. They form very strong threads and are (were anyway) Mil-spec. They are thread specific so you need to know the exact thread diameter and pitch of what you are repairing. I want to say the threads are M12x1.75 or M14x1.75 but this needs to be verified. Here is an example of helicoils... http://www.mscdirect.com/product/00068387 Here are examples of other types of threaded inserts... http://www.mscdirect.com/products/thread-insert?rdrct=threaded%20insert Go to your biggest/best automotive store (or hardware store if that fails) and go in asking for the specific thread size helicoil, thread saver, threadcert, etc (just brand names) and see what they have, as long as it can be made flush or recessed into the hole, it will work. In all honesty, if you aren't used to drilling/tapping holes or don't feel confident, you might want to take the vehicle and supplies somewhere and have it professionally installed. A proper repair should last forever, but a bungled one will cause bigger problems. B

Why did you need a new hub? B

You missed the tapping-the-hole step, but yes... I'd probably drill and tap into the existing hole (so grease doesn't come out of it) but I'd need to verify that there is sufficient clearance to close it properly. The hardest part of the job would be to remove the carrier so you could drill and tap the sleeves. Might as well replace the bushings if they have any play in them while you are there... B