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Precise1

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Everything posted by Precise1

  1. I recommend getting/using a mechanic's stethescope to track down the sound before you tear into it... B
  2. You can get some adjustment out of the steering box. On the top there is a set screw with a sloted top secured by a lock nut, 17 or 19mm IIRC. make a clocking mark, loosen the lock nut, turn the set screw gently clockwise 1/16th-1/4 rotation, then lock with the nut (the locking nut will rotate the set screw so plan for it). Only do this adjustment with the tires pointing straight, it seems to make a difference. Test drive and make sure the steering doesn't feel too tight. You can back it off a little if needed but make sure not to smash the worm gear... As for the seal, someone else just replaced theirs. I have to do mine as well, but don't have any first hand knowledge. RA-5 has the exploded view and proceedure for disassembly... B
  3. Thanks for the info, and the bad news. The VG33 has the same set up? Damn, I own one of those... B
  4. There is a strip model of the pathy with hand crank windows, vinyl floors, z24 motor, etc so 'base edition' doesn't work. Still, you would think there is some sort of standard other than seat upholstery and see through head rests... My XEs have had AC, PW, PL, HPM, rear wiper/defrost, tire carrier, LSD, alarm and a few other goodies. Nissan options are a mix and match at best... B
  5. What is your opinion of the placement/design of that? Just don't answer if you don't want to or shouldn't. B
  6. Sorry, I have no input other than Welcome, and I'm going to move this to the R50 section where it will get a lot better response. B
  7. First off, what is a puck? Second, nice, slightly creepy analogy. IIRC, there is a plastic bushing in the shifter well that keeps things tight and aligned. I'm pretty sure someone had theirs fail/break on them and they had to replace it. Look at MT-36 of the FSM for an exploded view. It looks like there is a rubber seat, socket, wave washer and spring that all could affect the stiffness and feel. So it fits, but the wiring is wrong, or it doesn't fit at all? Might be the difference from square to round dash... B
  8. Yep, and they should attach to the manifold at the same place with the same bolt sans heat shield. B
  9. X2 on heat, then impact gun. I was able to get mine with a 1/2" breaker bar, but I literally had to lock my legs around a tire to get the leverage or I would just drag myself around on the garage floor. Always remove the fill plug before you remove the drain plug, and when you reinstall the plugs , give them a couple of wraps of teflon tape. It will reduce the chance of a leak, you won't have to tighten it quite as much and you should have less trouble with it next time. B Oh, sometimes bracing yourself and getting a foot on the handle of a breaker bar and pushing with your leg works as well.
  10. Got it, thanks! That was bugging me... B
  11. Good job! Does it shut? I too am confused by the brackets. You show 3 with 4 holes each, but the mounts only need 2 with 4 holes each. It's hard to tell from here which brackets you are describing as well. Maybe just clarifying a bit? B
  12. Necrothread never dies!! I don't know about brutal, but definitely not standing behind their product... B
  13. It is pretty good so far... I understand what you are saying. I'm sure it had been discussed, but this is the only thread I have found so far... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/30151-on-board-air-from-stock-ac-compressor/ Maybe search a bit and hopefully find something else? I bought it off of a member parting out his truck/supplies, I was lucky to get a lot of his stuff at reasonable prices. I can't seem to find them anymore though, so the company probably went under. Viair would probably be the next contender but research the model! Of course, almost any of these can be bolted inside an old ammo can... B
  14. Well, it isn't quite as convenient as an on board system but it is much more versatile. I prefer to have the AC for the 1 month out of the year I use it. Just pointing out options... B
  15. Oh man, why the hell would someone put a hose there? This engine must not have been designed for the R50, only shoehorned in to fit, but that is still piss poor design. Sorry, I know nothing about the VQ engines so I am of no help. I can move this thread to the R50 thread where it might get more input... Thank you for the picture of the engine, that is interesting. I recommend you go to the Garage section and download the FSM for a 2002 Pathfinder from the pinned thread. That should show you exactly where your therm is, along with a whole lot of other things... B
  16. I seriously doubt that was stock, and I was talking about external carriers. I can see why a emergency spare would be mounted inside... B
  17. If you have a hard time sourcing the Legos for a reasonable price, black steelies are a good fall back for off road tires and cheap as well. I had 5 delivered to my door for $212 from Summit. Makes for a much smaller money tree... Good. Yeah, that's always the case for 99% of us... That is one of the cheapest, most inexcusable thing Nissan did with the Pathfinders. Any Pathy with an external carrier should have come with a full sized, matching tire and rim, no if's and's or butts! B
  18. Nothing wrong with having 2 sets of rims/tires, that way you get the best of both worlds... B
  19. When removing the races you should use a soft metal punch (aluminum, brass, bronze, etc) so you don't risk damaging the bearing surfaces. When re-installing, you preload it to a certain torque which 'seats' the races, and always check again after driving for a bit. Installing the races the hub can be tricky at first to make sure you start them straight, and there is less of a surface to strike or press on. I did mine in the driveway with a few peices of wood and metal I had laying around. B
  20. It's all good. We don't have any issues with old threads being resurrected like some sites do, especially when information is being added to them. I just wanted to point out that the OP probably won't be getting back to you... B
  21. A picture would be helpful. I'm not sure what you read about checking the ECU, but this one explains the proceedure, the switch VS screw types, the different modes, how to clear it, etc... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/21-ecu-self-diagnostics-for-87-95-pathfinder/ B
  22. This is all good information and thanks for sharing it, it will help people in the future, but you do realize this is a 4 year old necrothread? B
  23. ^Agreed. Yep, the side view of the mounts, angle and line pull would look something like _/- so any forward tension would create vector forces downward in a ratio equal to the tangent of the angle, IIRC. It's been a while since I've done engineering/ FEA work... The top mounts are also attached to the frame, really just formed pieces that rise up from the outside of the frame rails, but they provide a second point of attachment, spreading out the load over a larger portion of the frame and help keep the bumper from flexing or pivoting. I would plan on incorporating them, it shouldn't be hard. B
  24. Well, a catalytic converter is required by federal law, doesn't hurt performance in normal use and is the socially responsible thing to do. They do work and are there for a reason, not to mention you might have to pass emissions at some point. Not having a cat might reduce the resale value of the vehicle as well. If the factory one is damaged or the inlet/outlet is too small, there are a few reasonable aftermarket ones to be had fairly cheaply. I recommend looking at Magnaflow as a starting point. Did you install headers/custom exhaust, or just replace the stock components? B
  25. Drive it, get used to it and have fun with it, you'll know where your comfort limit level and the machines ability level meet. Some people take pride in beating the piss out of their vehicles, others like to take care of theirs. It's all about what it means to you and what your priorities are, and it's all good... B
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