Precise1

Do the temp sensor (the one for the ECU, not the gauge) and see what happens before bothering with the thermostat. You can test it's resistance with an Ohm meter. The values can be found in the Factory Service Manual, downloaded from the thread in the Garage section. B

It must be all the simpleton R50 owners in here. Wait... B

^ Always apply penetrating oil, use left hand drills (CCW, sometimes they will walk the bolt out themselves) and good removers, I prefer the square design for the smaller bolts. An automatic centerpunch can help a lot to make a start point in the center as well... B

It is the one for the ECU, in the top jacket by the thermostat. If the two, I believe it is the rearward one, with a yellow body I think. We accidentally interrupted the wiring connection for it on a friends Pathfinder and were talking as it warmed up idling. The motor suddenly cut out as if the ignition was turned off and it refused to start until we fixed the connector, then it ran fine. Try just wiggling/cleaning the connector first, then you can check the resistance of the sensor using the values you can find in the Factory Sercive Manual you can download from the Garage section. I hate just changing parts without testing the old one if possible. B

I generally agree that Moog is a decent brand as well. Here is an informative read. I trust Nunya when he says he has seen the Moog type fail prematurely, but I have not installed/dismantled one to compare it to the stock unit. What I like about the stock unit is that it holds up well with a brace and you can rebuild it, there are just a couple of plastic bushings in it. Anyway, you read and decide... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/32411-solving-the-idler-arm-issues/?hl=idler&do=findComment&comment=611179 X2 on the Grassroots4x4 centerlink. B

There you go with the oxymorons... B

^correct, @ ~800rpm B

I haven't done this myself, but I see about $25 in plumbing supplies and a tube of RTV... B

I think you have come to the logical conclusion, time for a better one. I would be loathe to build up any vehicle that had serious rust issues... I don't know the details, but hopefully not having the pathy running will not strand you. What I would do if possible is move, bring the pathy, strip it of everything (armrests to intakes), scrap it, sell what ever you can, store what you want to keep, find a good pathy to buy and build that one up with the parts. Ciongrats on the new house, and good luck with the new business. Landscaping, no? Are you going to use the pathy to pull a trailer for that as well? B

That picture reminds me of this one... Yes, please do, that would be a great thing to do if it worked! B

^ yeah, I remember that... I'm 1-2 weeks away from pulling my ARB winch bull bumper guard monster to put the winch in it. I'm long over due to take some measurements when I do, and I'll CAD them up and post files/prints. It won't be a rip off copy of the manufacturer, more like basic mounting/fitment dimensions that will be a big help, especially if you build from the mounts on up (due to the different lift/bumper configurations). I still have to rig a chain hoist point in the garage ceiling... I'll chime back in one week from now. B

Ok, you are talking about at the steering knuckle... That's a tough one, I'm going to have to look and see that kind of room/geometry there is. I doubt an adapter would work though. B

Too bad, but I guess it was an upgrade for him. You are absolutely right, the earlier EGR bung didn't really line up right which is part of the reason for my "keep everything loose and get it assembled first" advice. It is cool that you got those changes worked in, I wasn't aware of that... B

Sorry to hear... I have an ECM for sale, but I'm certain it is not the right one for you... (1995 manual VG30E) I'm sure you'll find one pretty easy though. B

I'm giving this a bump so maybe some of the newer members will chime in, we need a little more input from people before true statistical values can be established. Take a minute please, we thank you for it. B

I guess there is an issue with the ABS then... What I recommend and would do is download the Factory Service Manual (pinned in the Garage section) and follow their trouble shooting procedure. I'm certain that is the best place to start. B

Yes, the heim joints are the way to go. A few people have set up their front end that way, the grassroots4x4 centerlink has some welded on and most of the SAS guys use them. I wouldn't call that set up tie rod spacers though... Personally, I'd just go with this. http://www.grassroots4x4.com/index.php?page=shop.browse&category_id=3&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=1&vmcchk=1&Itemid=1 The stock tie rods have a male threaded taper to locate on so you would have to have a female tapered adapter to bolt them on. I'm not sure of the benefit of putting a 90* ball joint into a heim joint joint though. The real reason the stock center links wear out is that they lift and rotate under extreme load and then bell mouth the tapers. Are we still talking about the same thing? B

They seat into a taper, how is that going to work? B

Not that I know of, but I have not tried. If you get it down to 10 liters, that is only 7kg of fuel. The tank may weight 20 kilos? I can bench press that, and that is not my thing. Using wood blocks to control the mass would be easy. You would be amazed by the things I have managed with a little wood... (Get your mind out of the gutter!) Think less of you buying a part to meet a need? Not everything has to be done the hard way... B

Cool, thanks for that, I'm keeping that in mind for the future. Do you mean JB weld, or some other epoxy? B

Good point, that reminds me that GrimGreg sealed his in a Tupperware container. Not a bad idea... The rest of you are animals! B

SE also has option for dual trip odometers IIRC. I wouldn't exactly call the XE interior cheap, it is basically the same other than seats and carpet. Both of mine came with LSD, tire carrier, heated mirrors and fog lights. According to this limited sample the XE model is 50% likely to have LSD and the SE is 75% likely. Also SE owners outnumber XE owners by 2:1, or are twice as likely respond to polls. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/20182-wd21-owners-what-drive-trainmodel-trim-do-you-have/?mode=show Quantitative data. B

Does it run fine cold/warming up and then it does this behavior when hot? Is the behavior RPM, speed or gear related? Has it ever done this idling? If so try wiggling censor connectors to see if the stumbling stops/changes. I would have thought that it is starving for gas, but you replaced the filter. Fuel pressure could be an issue but that is not a common issue. Have you downloaded a copy of the Factory Service Manual yet? (pinned in the Garage section) You can look up the resistance of various engine control items. Have you checked for vacuum leaks? B

Check the fill and evap line first. If those are ok, then siphon out the gas and drop the tank. Sell the gas to your neighbors at a reduced price, they can put it right in their car or whatever. Buy one of hose cheap squeeze bulb siphons do you don't drink gas. Drop the tank, inspect it and try to identify the source of the leak, then determine if you should fix or replace it. I have no experience with fixing a tank so I can't help there. Brian, any tips to using those products? Maybe look for Utube videos... B

You are welcome. Holler if you need more info... It's not a hard job, I'd rate it a 3/10 without rust. Don't forget the lap joint band clamp. Some people like to weld the cross pipe, but that makes any disassembly a problem. Good info, thanks for that Bud. I have heard of some headers cracking, but even that is not the norm from what I understand. Hopefully I won't have to deal with it... B