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Precise1

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Everything posted by Precise1

  1. Yes, you would weld the bearing races on where the cups should be. If the cups are existent and in decent shape, there is no point in replacing them... B
  2. It's called a core charge here because they charge you if you don't have one... The true, un-ambiguous term is 'compression start' but local slang and idioms only increase with distance... B
  3. Here... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/28728-project-pathfinder/ B
  4. We'd heard you have been looking for a while. I''m glad you scored a one of a kind, professional build pathy, and will take good care of it! So, where do you park it? B
  5. ^Correct, and moisture does get trapped in there as well. The 3 WD21's I've worked on all needed them replaced and that was with 100-130k miles. AFAIC they should be a 60k maintenance item. Ok, that helps define it. Absolutely, see above. B
  6. I'm sure I'll have to upgrade some time in the next 20 years, so I'm pre-considering options for when I find a steal... AK-47 with new/synthetic furniture? How does it shoot? B
  7. So, give us some picts, pros and cons... B
  8. If it was free, you mean... You mean Schwimmwagen, I believe. Those are awesome little vehicles, I'd love to have one too! Most people don't know that they were used quite a bit, being the Willies equivalent but had the benefit of being 4wd with locking diffs and portal hubs, amphibious and factory oar, shovel and machine gun mounts. B
  9. If you have a cylinder misfiring, it is dumping raw fuel or rich exhaust into the exhaust, which could foul your cat on that side. Bank 1 is the passenger side IIRC so it is easy to get to. Check the resistance of the injectors cold and then hot, check the wiring loom for any issues, check the plug wires and their condition and routing (wires shouldn't cross or lay against metal), then pull the spark plugs and take a look of them, keeping them labled as to which cylinder; they could tell you something as well. B
  10. I have gotten years more service out of a 'weak' starter buy using 2 cans of electrical cleaner to flush it out as best as I could, it looked like an oil refinery sump pump. It definitely cranked better afterwards, so if you have the time and interest, try cleaning it first once it is removed. You can just do a quick hotwire test to see if it cranks, but I believe k9sar will support keeping all extremities away when you do so as the starter might take a leap. If that didn't work, then you have the old part to take in to match up with the new one and remove the core charge as well. You do have core charges (trading in the old part) down there? Damn! Try and ask what the difference is when you are there, if you don't mind. You are welcome, too bad it wasn't all good... B
  11. Crank seal as well if you are so inclined, and the bypass hose. 2 schools of thought on the seals: If it doesn't leak, leave it alone and replace them when you are there and they shouldn't leak before the next 100k miles (next timing belt interval). All depends on your time, $, familiarity and preference... B
  12. Nice! Did you ever replace the ECU or did the Georgia over bake it back to life? B
  13. ^Exactly. There is a high initial torque to make sure to seat the races (I don't like it because it is begging to brinell them), but otherwise it is in the 2ft/lb range. I made sure to seat the new races very well, did a moderate initial torque (20ft/lbs or so), then set at the proper tension. Drove it a few hundred miles and then re-checked them. They were fine, but I always check wheel bearings a second time after a bit of driving. B
  14. If there was a change, it must be in your market. In the US, I'm fairly certain that there is no difference between starters, at least for engine types (VGI and VGE show different part numbers) and a quick online parts check shows the same part numbers for 1990 and 1995, for the US market. You should be fine, but call a few parts stores and get a concensus. I seem to recall someone putting a VG33E starter on their VG30E and saying it was easier due to the unit being slightly smaller... B
  15. Yep, tension rod bushings are possibly part of the issue, but it could be a few other things with a little play as well. The ball joints, tie rod ends and/or idler arm could be part of it. It vibrates bad at 60 and then smooths out which makes me believe it is resonating, not a constant issue (often attributed to wheel balance). Can you swap some rims/tires just for a test drive? I have a spare set if you are down here again. Do you feel the vibration in the steering wheel or more so in the whole truck? B
  16. From what I can tell, if one was to put the notches in the spindle nose, the auto locking hubs would fit fine (not proven obviousy). This would be a nice option for replacing the drive flanges on the R50, getting the benefits of not spinning the front CVs 24/7 but retaining shifting on the fly ability, or at least not having to get out and lock, especially with how many cheap autohubs there are. Too bad the factory decided not to do 1 last machining step. B
  17. If it is 2001-2004, nothing under the hood will match as they have the VQ35 motor, not the VG33. Check the door plate... B
  18. No, the WD21s only came with the autolocking hubs and they will not fit on an R50, the spindle nose lacks 2 notches to align and secure the WD21 unit. I know, I tried it... B
  19. I shall move this to the Garage section... B
  20. Here, let me get one in for you buddy... B
  21. You have to start diagnosing somewhere, just to rule things out. I always look for the cause before I buy parts... Have you checked the OBD2 for stored codes? If there is nothing there, I would get one of these and test the fuel pump/regulator pressures. http://www.harborfreight.com/fuel-injection-pump-tester-92699.html#.UxYPYYVuEpc Do you have a copy of the FSM? You can download it for free from the pinned thread in the Garage section. It has all the values, proceedures and an in depth diagnostic section in EC IIRC. A dizzy should last a lot longer than 30k. I've never replaced one in a Pathfinder and that is in vehicles with 106k, 137k, and 175k. B
  22. Nice! Mine has 106xxx. Low mileage is the way to go... B
  23. It's all good, no one is born with this knowledge... B
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