Precise1

Your alternator could be failing or the connections to the alternator, battery, ground, chassis could be corroded and not conduction properly. Start with a visual inspection... B

Many after market cats are bolt on direct fit, and other are universal weld in. The weld ins are usually cheaper, but require more labor to install and are obviously harder to remove in the future. Without knowing the exact specs of what you need (trim level may affect fitment and I'm guessing you only need 49 state compliance) here are some examples of that are available. http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/shop_years/nissan-pathfinder-catalytic-converter-2006.html http://www.amazon.com/gp/part-finder/slide-show/2006/Nissan/Pathfinder?ie=UTF8&partsNode=15726731 What was the reason the original cats failed? Make absolutely certain the cause is rectified before proceeding. B

Yep, here is a topic in our Classifieds/Services section. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/18653-genuine-nissan-parts/ Alkorahil (Rob Lacy) is a long time, helpful, knowledgeable member here who also happens to run an on-line dealership site out of Texas. He knows his stuff, has about the best prices for factory Nissan parts (I don't go to my local dealer unless forced to) and ships internationally. If he can't help you, you are in serious trouble... B

Then you should know that it against federal law to remove the cats from the exhaust system, not to mention socially irresponsible. Will it hurt the vehicle/motor, no. Will it speak negatively of you, yes. B

TMr Bum, the Wall of Shame is more mechanically based and pictures are definitely desired, but here is a fun read we did years ago along similar lines... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/3050-self-depreciation-alley/?hl=alley http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/37671-wall-of-shame/ B

Damn, that stuff must bake on over the years... B

It does make sense to do an overall worthiness inspection first... B

No one is born with knowledge of how everything is supposed to work, be, fit or assemble. Some figure it out faster, but it is still a learning process. I have messed up a lot of simple things over the years, and that is just part of the game. The trick is to learn from the mistakes, and follow simple rules... Look how it is put together before you take it apart, take pictures (digital cameras are awesome) first, only take one side apart at a time (so you have a reference), read the destructions every time, don't let yourself be distracted, stop if you get mad/frustrated, buy beer before hand, etc... Thanks for sharing Bud, it will help someone. B

Yes, many detergent additives IIRC. B

Wow, that sounds insane! Did you try 99% alcohol and or acetone? MEK? Jasco paint remover? (it will melt hardcore plastics) B

The tranny cross member is bolt on IIRC, so just replace it? I do not believe there is a write up for a Z24 and tranny. Do you not have at least a Chiltons or Hayes manual? Doesn't the FSM have the proceedure for the Z24 as well? B

I'm pretty sure that is a weep hole, from the bottom timing cover? I'll look tomorrow when it is warm and light. I'd guess a crank seal leak, unless you have a bad cam seal leak. B

Come for the LOLs, stay for the veal... Not once in 10 years, but then it hasn't attacked me in 10 years either... B

For the top bolts, help makes it easy. Have someone up topguide and hold the socket on the bolt while you crank it out. It makes those top bolts a 10 minute job without any real pain, swearing, etc. You still need a 6" extension, universal joint and 12-18" extension though, WD21 VG30 anyway. B

No problem, get to it when you can. Good luck with the move, I hope it goes smoothly. Don't rush is my advice... B

Fair enough! The good part is that you should get some sort of warranty on the parts and installation, and that peace of mind is worth something as well. B

^ He does know better than I, he does it for a living. It is a bit of work, I'm just saying that if you have the resources and a weekend, you could save yourself 1/2 the $. B

Not beating up the Tech, or trying to argue, but at $30/hr, I don't think a pizza or beer is needed. I also doubt it takes 10 hours with access to full shop, tools, lift. I'm sure you can do it much faster than that yourself... I'm sorry if the shops soak up so much of the money, but all it does is hurt the tech and customer at the same time. I am the guy who brings doughnuts to the shop (the few times I have to go)... B

That isn't a deal. There are no T-bars in the way like the WD21s, and the parts (flywheel-new or resurfaced, pressure plate, clutch plate and throw out bearing) should be about $300-400 depending on what/where you get them. It is a bit of work, but also something he can do in a day easy. I have a hard time paying $80+/hr for a mechanic as a machinist who never made 1/2 of that, when most of it is just grunt work I can do just as well, if not better. Odds are most of it is done by a helper paid $15/hr anyway... That said, if you do not have a place to work, a weekend free, the tools required and friend to help, you might not have any choice. I'd get at least another quote, it seems steep to me... B

You are welcome to if need be... B

Very nice find Bud! No 'maybe' about it IMO. $100 and 1 hour will give you better mileage, reduce front drive train wear and tear and by some reports, drive and steer smoother. You can always lock them when you first get in to be able to shift on the fly, but do not have the selector knob on AUTO if they are not locked in (if you have that feature). Welcome to NPORA BTW. B

I've used many things to lube the carrier hinges, and yes, even WD40 will work ok for a while (and is the easiest) but what worked amazingly well for me was applying a little bit of Lucas Oil Stabilizer to the top and bottom of the hinges with an acid brush (dab it in the hole as well), let it sit for a day to creep, then open and closed it a few times to distribute it and wipe away any residue off. The LOS is like honey in consistancy, and the tire carrier opens so easily now that I have to be careful that it doesn't swing all the way open and hit hard on the stops. Probably the next best thing to zerks and grease. B

I know a few people have done this, and I'm pretty sure they ran their own dedicated wiring. I'd try a search... B

Something about that giant signature... B

Agreed. If you could please add some pictures, we'll make sure this is properly posted. B