Precise1

Not if you have to pass smog tests. B

If you haven't yet, I highly recommend you go to the Garage section and into the pinned thread on Factory Service Manuals to download your own free copy. It is the DIY persons bible, and in this case, go to FA-4 for a view of the front suspension components. I find it helps to study a drawing and maybe read a little before examining/working on the truck. Good luck with the dangerous weather conditions down there! B

Kinda used it at times to make a living for 10-15 years, but I'm really just a hack. No training, classes, etc just figuring it out under pressure as need. I've already decided I will start over to do it right (both sides, not just 1/2 of it). It won't be too hard now that I remember a lot and am familiar with the numbers. I'll add the bumper clearances and the upper mounts as well and then actually dimension it like a print (I do know how ). I should get it done soon so I can reinstall it so I'll shoot for by the end of the week. B

Make sure to clean out the frame/undercoat it or it will rot. B

Yes all 1990+ are fuel injected. If you have smog tests (I thought they did in Seattle) then you have to get headers that have the threaded hole for the EGR piping, but I don't know if the Pace Setters have that or not. To be sold in California, components have to be CARB certified which means to be design evaluated/tested to prove they do not increase emissions. Doug Thorley headers (made in California incidentally) are the only ones available for a Pathfinder that are CARB certified and can be sold in Ca. B

I get what you are saying, sorry that I was snapish. It was late and I was tired/distracted. That reads a little differently today than it did last night... I'm with you on alternative transportation whenever it is feasible, but I have to say the older I get, the lazier I get, so sometimes the convenience factor is what matters. I have one of these which is sufficient for my needs... But this area isn't nearly as bike friendly as it could be and the number of times I've seen people driving into the bike lanes makes me cringe so I doubt I'll ever be a hard core commuter. Now an electric motorcycle on the other hand... B

It was along a 45mph (70kph) route that I routinely watched people drift into the bike lane (not seperated, just a white line) with a few grave markers on the way. I'd prefer not to widow my wife. I also worked some 10-12 hours days that didn't make a 30 minute ride each way realistic. I respect bike riders and have ridden bikes for 30 years, sometimes in rain or with ice on the ground. Not fun and I won't do it unless necessary... It is not necessary in my world. My wife bikes to work (in town and bike paths) most of the time, 6 months a year. She's a little Asian chick who doesn't do well in inclement weather, cut her some slack. The cars don't pollute sitting around and they don't rust to crap here. They didn't 'feed the machine' (industry) being bought used, and they are California smog tested/passed so they run cleaner than most anything you are used to. What is the issue? How much do you 'eat what you grow' up there? B

Sorry, it means I can't type or proof read (stupid fat fingers and old eyeballs/brain)! TPS is what I meant, which is the Throttle Position Sensor, located on the side of the plenum right at the flex hose air intake. (little rectangular box on the left side) The fact that you shut it off and it started fine means it is intermittent and electrical, and not a reason to freak out, yet. Honestly, you have a 20 year old truck, so it's going to be a little tempermental at times. Just treat it like a woman: don't get excited or show fear, don't make any fast moves or hasty decisions, maintain eye contact, speak in low soothing tones and don't turn your back! (Or is that dogs and horses? Bah, same thing! ) Not trying to blow you off at all, but check out that FSM, it can be enlightening. I'm jealous about the welder BTW, but not the compressor. Worked around them for years and learned to dislike the noise... B

Honestly, the balancing tech should have noticed any mud build up, especially after 4x. Not saying it isn't possible, but odds are... B

The idea in a non-rust state is to drive it once a week or so, and it can last you a life time. My commute for 6 years was 6 miles, and has never been more than 25 (I don't believe in wasting the gas and time) so I don't rack up much mileage regardless. The wife works 5 miles from home and we normally have 3 cars we can use, so if one needs repair/maintenance it doesn't cause problems in mobility and there is time to source used/bargain parts and do the necessary work. Since they are all used vehicles, it almost pays for the third one to not rush/go to the mechanic. With a WD21 (heavily modified) with 106k miles, a stock R50 with 175k miles and a Toyota Matrix with 140k miles (assuming they all last until 200k miles) I have about 180k miles waiting to be used up. We don't drive 15k miles a year so that's at least 10 if not 15 years before we even think about another car (probably sooner for the wife though). I'm into all vehicles for about $25k and they are all paid for, so when you do the math and look at the long term, it actually makes sense and gives you a lot of options. Besides, how do you think people wind up with classics? Sorry for the tremendous thread jack, but I felt the need to explain. Now back to your regular program... B

General concensus is that removing the rear sway bar produces some body roll, removing the as well front makes it roll a lot. I'm not sure about front removal and rear use though as most people only care about the articulation. B

I'm not an alignment expert by any means, but too much tow in (front of the tires V towards one another) and they can fight each other, and too little (or too much?) castor can make them act like a shopping cart's front wheels flapping around... I always recommend getting an alignment when having new tires put on, it rules out one possible problem and generally makes them last longer. Added benefit is that the tech might tip you off to a problem they noticed. You can always take it home and look/change it yourself... I get 'lifetime' alignments at Firestone. They pay for themselves quick, and while some people have reported issues, I think it is more the shop you take it to. Besides, I'll take it back every day until they get it right; if that isn't incentive, what is? B

What kind and brand did you break? Nothing personal, but you know what you are doing? Experience does matter, and I've never found one magic tool that always works in any situation in 20 years of being a machinist (inluding making my own). A brief primer... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/5361-a-mechanics-tips-and-tricks/ B

When was the last time you had the front end aligned? B

From what I recall, they are the same pitch, but it has been years since I pulled a tranny. B

^Bingo! Always the best place to start if there are stored codes. Even if there isn't, the siagnostic section has proceedures for all sorts of descriptions, it's pretty handy! The other thing to do is pop the hood while it is running and wiggle the connections at the TSP, MAF, coolant sensor, etc to see if it changes or smooths out. That can help you locate and intermittent issue sometimes. Unfortunately, the connectors don't seem to last as long as everything else, but they are fairly easy to disassemble, clean, tighten, etc. B

Top it off and put the shifter back in... Yes, 5.1 liters is the recommended amount as per the TSB. B

*waits patiently* B

Flushing, and just changing the fluid is two different things. I don't buy that 'just run it until it dies' crap. ATF is basically hydraulic fluid with lubricants and detergents. It can get dirty and heat breaks it down. To say not to change it makes no sense to me. What doesn the FSM say about the maintenance? I'm not an auto tranny guru, but logic prevails here. The ATF needs to be in good condition, at the right level and the flow needs to be unobstructed. If you don't verify these items, you have nothing to go on. I have set my tranny up with a temp gauge, a spin on/inline filter and auxiliary cooler. This is so I can watch the temp (temp breaks down the ATF), I can make sure there is no significant particulate matter in the fluid, and that the fluid gets a chance to cool. Very soon I will reroute the lines so they will go through the filter, into the radiator cooler, and then into the larger auxiliary cooler I plan to install. This should provide the most stable operating temperature and provide the most cooling at the same time. If you have shifting issues, I highly recommend you address them before you don't have a working tranny. B

Kinda nice to hear that and not say it. Holy crap! Man, did you ride a dinosaur there too? B

I had the Pro-Comp ES3000 shocks on my first WD21 and thought they were perfect up front but a little stiff in the rear unladen, so perhaps the ES1000 in the rear? The other option would be the Rancho XLS9000 adjustable, so at least you can tune them somewhat to your preference. Air shocks might do it for you as well, but they tend to be quite pricey... B

#1 Check the level and quality of the ATF. #2 Do you have an external cooler or are you still routed through the radiator cooler? #3 Confirm that you have proper flow going back to the tranny. (You can temp bypass any coolers you have set up) #4 Reference the FSM for the tranny diagnostics, they can be read like the ECU. B

Don't feel bad, I pulled a bone head move like that not too long ago myself. I let myself be distracted when I was doing an oil change on the wife's Matrix, and pulled the tranny drain plug instead of the engine oil drain plug. I caught it right away and only lost about a pint, but still... $15/qt? That hurts! B

Exactly! One to seat, the other to seal... B

I've had those looks before as well. I just tell them that I do my own work and know my shiet... Nice! I'm glad you squeaked by, that still isn't bad by a long shot. I'd bet that if you had fresh oil and ran it down the freeway 20 miles before you took it in for the test (assuming good ignition components) , it would only register 1/2 that. I don't know it all, but have been dealing with NorCal smog tests for 30 years (and worked at a test garage a dog life ago) so take that for what it is worth. B