Precise1

That makes sense once it goes into closed loop, so it is a sensor/ECU related thing... Honestly, did you ever go through the trouble shooting diagnostic in the FSM? B

Yes, I know you have the cool new/foreign mix-match, but I never would have thought it would still be carburated. I figured Z24i... Yep, the Z24 exhaust is collected on the left side and piped straight back. (owned a D720 with Z24i for a decade). B

Why would you gut the cats and ignore the codes when the computer that controls the motor is telling you what the problem is? Do you think injectors or a fuel pump is cheap? Why don't you start with the O2 sensors and save the second guessing for later? This makes no sense... B

Don't worry about the diff, that probably took years to ooze and it hasn't even managed a drip yet. If anything, it will keep that part from rusting. Hell, you should probably get more and smear it around! B

Neat trick, I didn't think of that, but didn't you remove the bump stop too? I guess you could do that without removing the coil as well, but it seems like it would be a pain. You must not have drilled out the bottom hole then? I guess it comes down to what tools and equpiment you have and how you prefer to go about it. Thanks for clarifiying that. B

Sorry Leo, I don't know how I missed that. I know it is an old post, but... If you have the 3.0L V6, yes the front diff should be the R200A, but it should be the 28 spline, 27 spline was for 90 and earlier here IIRC. Not too hard to count the splines though... The 28 spline manual hub that fit on 4 door WD21s and R50s up to 1999 or 2001 (can't remember) is Mile Marker P/N 435. http://www.4wheelparts.com/Drivetrain-Differentials/Mile-Marker-Supreme-Manual-Hub.aspx?t_c=12&t_s=237&t_pt=6075&t_pn=MIL435 B

Considering it is a few mouse clicks, yes, I'd say it is easy... They need to be hosted on an internet site like photobucket (there are quite a few) and then you copy the direct link from that site and paste it into the picture icon field after you click on it (^above). Our 1999.0 had leaking valve cover gaskets bad enough that the spark plug wells were filled with a mixture of bakes oil and acorn husks (courtesy of some mice, obviously). It took me 3 hours to clean the wells out enough for me to pull the plugs. Just try snugging the screws and wiping off the immediate oil so you can see if it still leaks. You can only get to 1/2 the screws on the drivers side, but that worked well enough. B

The polyurethane bushings (a diameter with a flange on one end) should be easily removable and should be reusable as long as they aren't significantly compressed or worn, the stock ones are difficult to remove and probably aren't reusable after any length of time. People have experimented with different greases to stop the squeaks and IIRC there were two good solutions; one was a grease from Energy Suspension (who might have made the bushings you have) and the other was to use waterproof boat trailer wheel bearing grease. If you have the arms off, might as well install zerk fittings, it isn't hard and should do the trick. When I installed mone, I also grooved the OD of the bushing with grease channels and cross drilled through the center in the channels so the grease should be able to migrate to the ID of the bushing as well. Probably overkill, but this is what happens when a machinist over thinks something and is bored at work one day. No the UCAs do not come ready for zerk fittings, they have to be drilled and tapped. B

Yep, I would re-tighten the valve covers first, it only takes a little oil running down to burn off and stink. Take a look around the exhaust manufold and cats to see if there is anything noticable as well. B

Agreed, 190.220km is not much at all as long as the major parts are ok (engine, tranny, drivetrain). Most of what you mentioned are all wear items, so it is to be expected, although that is why some people drive a vehicle for 4-5 years (often doing no maintenance) and then switch to another new one so they don't have to deal with it. They wind up paying a lot more in the long run though... Your pathfinder has a carburator? B

Probably more that it needed, but now you have a base line for maintenance. Now that's no way to talk to your primary wheels and future Jeep slayer! Damn, that is insanely clean! You could safely breathe it... B

Glad you got it figured out without any damage! So everything wasn't tightened back down properly? B

Right! Who would need those! B

Glad you got it figured out without too much trouble/expense. With proper maintenance you should be able to get another 100k, especially if it is freeway miles. Make sure to change the tranny and differential fluids as well. B

So you used the factory style press in bushings, not aftermarket polyurethane slip fit bushings? If factory, yes, you would have to press them out, but you can try soaking them with a liquid lubricant. It won't last for ever, but it would be the easiest way. Yes, zerk fitting is the common US term for a grease nipple, and yes, they can be installed; I have done it myself. It would be hard to do on the vehicle and might damage the bushing and pack metal shavings into itif it wasn't done disassembled. B

"Check Items (possible cause)" from page EC-255: amongst others are Incorrect Fuel Pressure and Lack of Fuel. That came out of your fuel tank? I'd consider draining the tank, or at least look into it. Do the R50's have the same access port in the cargo area? How does it run now? B

I'm sure what you did will work just fine. I have no idea what cross members go for, I've never priced them! B

Did you tighten everything back down properly? B

Look at page EC-255 of the FSM, there is 3-4 pages of diagnostics to trouble shoot that code. B

Air Flow meter, also known as the MAF (Mass Air Flow sensor). It is the aluminum gizmo mounted on the output side of the air box with the flex hose that goes to the engine. Sometimes the wiring connector.wires get funky, some times it needs a ground spliced in. Try just wiggling the connector when it is idling rough. If it clears up or changes, you know that is the culprit. You can also check the ECU (engine control unit or Brain) for stored fault codes, sometimes it will tell you what is malfuctioning. There are proceedures for all of this in the Garage/How To section. B

I did a write up on the pump once. The shaft was siezed with corrosion/mineralization but the motor ran fine. I opened it up, roke the impeller shaft free, cheaned things up and it worked like a champ. Don't give up yet! B Here... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/27661-wd21-windshield-washer-pump-blues/?hl=washer

I would be very surprised if it didn't! How does it run? B

Ok, in that case, make sure to soak those bolts with a Penetrating oil (PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, Kroil, etc) like ahardb0dy said, you might need an impact gun or breaker bar to get them to break free. Do you have tools and experience (or access to both)? Rob Lacy (Alkorahil, a member here) in the link above is a great resource, but something like this need not be a dealership item (not sure about the brackets though) Rock Auto is a great resource, and we have a 5% discount code with them in the Classified/Vendors or Services section. I see they have a stabilizer bar link set (everything needed, made by ACDelco) for $5.88. And a set of stabilizer bar bushings by the same for $10, but some are as low as $4. I don't see the brackets though. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?ck[iD]=0&ck[idlist]=0&ck[viewcurrency]=USD&ck[php_SESSION_ID]=kc4sp7uc66i4mmb4knndb5ete3 Obviously, buy from where you are comfortable with or whatever. Yeah, I spent most of my life without a garage, so I know how challenging (read miserable) that can make it, and it doesn't even snow here! The Pathfinders are pretty good vehicles, that is for sure! You are welcome, we are glad to help. That is the point of the site after all... B

First just pass smog, but yeah, it sounds like it is best to just swap everything out and be done with it, the smog tests aren't cheap and you don't want to be on the gross polluter list. It should run great now too! I agree, the O2 and air filter are probably the biggest culprits at this point. As for outwheeling Jeeps, that is standard... B

You could drive like that, it shouldn't hurt anything else but I would do so as little as possible on principle. As you noticed, the handling and perhaps steering characteristics will be different/not as good. Do you plan to replace these yourself? If so, it is just the 3 bolts per side you see but as was said, those bottom bolts might need a bit of persuading to remove and the top piece might be easiest just to cut or grind off. You will need the brackets for each side, and two new bushings (the brackets could be new or used). While you are there, how are the down links on either end? It might be worth redoing the entire bar connections... I feel bad for you salt state people, that would suck to deal with. B Welcome to NPORA BTW!