Precise1

Your old bushings have definitely shrunk from being pounded and under pressure. Are the new ones dealership items? It shouldn't matter that the new pieces are longer, what matters is that the bushings are properly in place and loaded so they carry the position of the bushing sleeve/rod. Do you get any movement out of the rod end or bushings and are they compressed? B

The cover might be stuck in place after 20 years? Is there a seam? (been s while since I had mine apart) B

You are welcome. When it gets dark tonight, pop the hood and fire it up, see if there is any arcing from the wires, it is usually obvious... B

^agreed, not to mention it will actually be stronger with a helicoil, thread-cert or whatever you use. Do not despair, it isn't that bad of a fix and at least you caught it before the damn wheel fell off. You might want to check the condition of the other threads as well, along with checking the torque of the other side. B

Start with the passenger side that you can get to without removing the plenum. Sorry the resistance is 10-14 ohms, not 8-10. Also, in the FSM starting around EC-50 there are diagnostic procedures for hunting, stumbling, lack of power, etc. They are worth looking at, and that whole section is a good read to help you understand how things tie together and where to start for certain symptoms. Odd that you do not have any codes yet... B

How high is it? It could be the TPS or MAF connectors. Get under the hood and give them a wiggle to start with. Have you downloaded a copy of the FSM from the Garage section yet? There is a comprehensive diagnostic system in it. B

That comes down to harness connector or injector. I'd start by checking the passenger side wher it is easy, you have a 50% chance of getting lucky. Check the wiring harness visually for any possible damage, check each injector connector for corrosion/integrity and check the pins on the injector with a multimeter for resistance, It should be 10-14 ohms. Check out Diagnostic procedure #35 on page 108 of the FSM, EC-108. It has all the harness test specs as well. B

Really? Did you read this thread? In short, 5.1 liters of GL-4 ONLY conventional oil, or the same amount of suitable synthetic like Redline MT-90. Please read all of this so you understand, and save yourself a lot of $ and grief. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/2621-manual-transmission-tsb/ B

No, the Nissan Pathfinder VG30 block is basically the same from 1986.5-1995. The parts might be a little different spanning the years, but the method/process of changing them is basically the same and they are all interference motors that will contact valves to pistons if the timing belt is way off or breaks. B

That description is so inadequate that it is almost criminal. Either he doesn't know is own arse from a pen holder or he couldn't be bothered to give you good info. Either way, I wouldn't go back there again. The basic premise is that in the Euro-metric tire size method, the first number equals the width in millimeters (25.4mm/inch), the second number is the aspect ratio of the side wall height to the width (75=75%), and the third is the rim diameter. The first two numbers can be identical, but if the third (rim diameter) is different, the diameter can change drastically. Here, read this. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?s_kwcid=AL!3756!3!40349075413!p!!g!!tire%20size%20explained&ef_id=UwJUbQAABCTyGF3a:20140326232228:s&techid=46 Better yet, print it out and give it to that idiot... B

You are really going to have to try to keep up... B

#1 DON'T DRIVE IT! There could be a few things wrong with it, from mild to bad. The second thing I would do (first is DON'T DRIVE IT) would be to download the Factory Service Manual from the top of the Garage section and read up on the tranny diagnostics, then follow them. Sometimes the stock cooler clogs and it loses line pressure, but that usually affects reverse first. See what the diagnostics say, these are complicated trannys... B

Which cylinder was it that was badly fouled? It could be that there is an issue with the injector. If you can get to it, check the wiring condition, the connector to make sure there isn't a loose element or any corrosion and test the injector for resistance, both hot and cold if possible. It should be 8-10 ohms IIRC, but the info is in the FSM. B

Yeah, it counts, but you are just starting to be 'trained'. It gets worse, trust me! Word of advice, draw a line at a reasonable compromise and do not waver! Any lost ground will not be regained... I'm going to use the CAD to make dimensioned prints so you'll only need CAD if that is how you plan to design on your end. I still favor the pen/bar napkin approach. B

So is road kill... What's for dinner? B

Make it square and put the bolt holes in the right place... An idler arm brace and pan hard mount drop are probably the more straight forward things to make. I'd just look look at existing designs and copy one per your preference/fabrication methods. I'd argue that most designs (Calmini for example) are probably overkill. It doesn't hurt anything, just putting it into perspective. B

I charged up the battery, and when I opened the door to pop the hood I was amazed to smell the the 'new car' smell after all this time. Then I realized it was just the gauge pillar pod laying in the passenger seat that was out gassing... B

These air bags are hard plastic, 4" in diameter. How could you get them inside the spring without removing it? B

It depends on how high you go for the pan hard rod, 2" debatable, 3+ probably, although in reality the condition of the bushings is probably equally important. the stock brake line should be good for 2-3" of lift, it is only mounted about 6" off center and has some slack. Might want to look at it if you go higher and have a lot of flex. I have too much to do to pull the springs right now, but I can offer the tip that the easiest way to measure the spring perch is to oil it lightly, put some modeling or even pottery clay on it, put a board on that, then take both off in one piece and start photographing/measuring the replication. I have done a lot of machining where this was the only way to measure the part, only we used dental potting compound and sometimes silly putty. It works... B

What voltage is at the battery terminals when it is sitting with the ignition off, sitting with the ignition on and then when it is running? B

The drive flange that houses the bearings? I'm not sure exactly what you are refering to as they shouldn't be a failure point. Can you look at this diagram and see if that is what you mean? https://partsouq.com/es/catalog/nissan/part?catalog=EL&model=R50&group=400 B

I'd guess timing or fuel. Start by checking the timing 15* BTC @ 800rpm IIRC, and checking the ECU for codes. B

Running too rich can load up/clog the honey comb with unburned hydrocarbons and I've heard that running too lean/hot can break down the honey comb base material (they aren't solid platinum, paladium, etc!) causing it to break, creating it's own debris to clog its self. Yeah, the cats can fail/be clogged. Others can work for 30 years... B

Doh, busted! You aren't married, are you? Between cooking, charcuterie, yard work, planting, taxes and the honey do list, I'm behind schedule. I have taken 1/2 of the measurements and all of the pictures anyone should need, I just need to CAD it now, and finish up. The good news is it is going to be raining here for a while, so that frees me up to do inside stuff. Inside the garage. Bear with me, I just need a few more days. I have not forsaken you, here is the proof, ARB bondage! I've orked with engineers too long... Making it a 3 piece bolt together would make it a lot easier to fab up! I'd want the pieces to interlock somehow, not horizontal sections bolted together though. Regardless, I'll have dimensions very shortly; the majority of the work is done, and I can't forget about it because it is hanging in my garage! B

You are welcome. I almost always recommend inspecting and testing before removing/replacing but it sounds like you have done that. As long as wires/connections look good, the afore mentioned voltage test is the next step, then removing the alternator and taking it in to have it load tested. Thankfully none of this is difficult, but hopefully you have a garage to work in/spare vehicle for a few days. B