Precise1

This is a common problem with several solutions, everything from the dealership 'replacement' parts that are 300zx turbo studs to just using M8x1.25 SHCS. I highly recommend just searching a little for more answers, but regardless, I will move this to the WD21 section as the New People section isn't a good place for technical questions. B

ECU Self-diagnostics in the Garage/How To section, first post... Also very clear in the FSM (free download in the thread pinned in the Garage section) starting about EC-34. You have to watch, count and turn the screw... B

That'll work on your motor.carb set up anyway. +1 for ingenuity but I hope you had a fire extinguisher handy! B

News to me as well. Science and technology move along and what we were told/taught might not apply any more. I've eaten of that pie enough to look before I bite. That link is a very basic course, but is enough for most people AFAIC. Again, the big questions seem to be the local climate, dino or synthetic and do you just jump in and drive. Seems to me the cold weather people would do well with a block heater. Not to make sure it starts, but to make sure it is lubricated... B

Have you cleared the OBD2 codes and run it for a bit? Any new codes? Old codes? what are the numbers? A single downstream cat shouldn't cause surging. Have you followed the FSM diagnostic proceedure? I once had a cyl #1 misfire and downstream O2 sensor codes. Once I replaced the #1 injector (took a bit to isolate, it only failed after hot/shut off/restart), the down stream O2 code went away. B

This is probably going to be a case of lift, mount and see what you need. Odds are there is no one running exactly the same set up... B

I believe you are talking about the torsion rod bushings (strut rod bushings)? They come off of the rear of the lower A arms and go through the frame, one bushing on either side? If so, yes, if you think they look bad now, wait until you take it apart! They are a heavy wear item and are usually overlooked and in bad shape. They can definitely cause (allow) the front to shake as they are supposed to hold things in place. It isn't hard to change at all as long as it isn't rusted together and you have the tools. I would go ahead any plan to change them regardless and see how it drives then rather than change everything at once. You have a choice between Dealership rubber and aftermarket rubber and polyurethane bushings. There are many threads about this problem here, some in the Garage/How To section as well. Let me know if you can't find them. Hard to diagnose 'a little steering slack' but another cheap/easy is to rebuild the factory idler arm. 3 or 4 bolts hold it on and one nut holds it together. there are two plastic bushings inside the body that can be had for a few dollars at the Dealer. Take the old out, put the new in with grease, reinstall and it is one less loose item. B

Please, WD-40 is for water displacement, sticker removal or maybe lubricating a lock. You are far better off using a true penetrating oil, here in the US I recommend PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, Kroil and the like. I'm not sure what brands are available in other countries... It really depends how much you replace, and what. Tie rod ends and control arm bushings would probably want an alignment. Torsion rod bushings, sway bar bushings, Idler arm bushings shouldn't. B

The only time I messed with most of that stuff is when I was stripping my old Pathy before it got towed, after work, usually in the rain, while I was packing to move; I wasn't really studying things. Sorry, I don't have the experience to be very helpful with this. The two things I can recommed is to do the flamable aerosol check for a serious vacuum leak first, then look in the FSM at EC-29 for trouble shooting diagnosis for your specific issue. Don't get stuck on the fact that it is a vacuum leak, it could easily be electrical as well. I once disabled a friends Pathy by wiggling the coolant temp sensor connector when I was pointing it out to him. He warmed up the truck and as soon as it went into closed loop, it died immediately and refused to start. We disassembled/cleaned the connecor, reconnected it and it has been 9 months running flawlessly. Have you checked the ECU for stored codes? I'd really take a step back and start with the basics. B

x3 on clear the OBD2 of codes and drive... B

Start spraying witha flamable aerosol. When the rpm surges, you have found the area of the leak. You must have forgotten to attach something or detached something without noticing when you were working. Have you looked at the vacuum diagrams for reference? B

Do you actually read the responses that are posted? B

Ahh! Ok then! B

If you have any 'washing around the timing belt' going on, I feel bad for you... B

Why are you quizing a nonsensical, 7 year old post? B

That is because you don't have auto hubs, you have drive flanges that are permanently bolted to the CVs, spinning them all the time. That is why a manual hub upgrade is more important for an R50 than a WD21. Did you read Slartibartfast's post? First thing is to disassemble the hubs, clean them, make sure there are no damaged parts, reassemble them with a minimim of light grease and test them out, not whacking them with a 'Malloy', you caveman! Go to the Garage section, download the Factory Service Manual, go to FA-19, read and study the exploded view, and then take a look... B

Adam is correct, 5-30 can be used in 95% of all climates/situations. 10-30 range is recommended as well in the warmer climes, but remember that technology has come a long way since the manuals were written. The main issues are, are you asking about synthetic or dino oils, how cold does it get where you live, do you let the engine warm up a bit and how do you drive when you first start out. I highly recommend reading this, it is worth the time. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-101/ What I have gotten from this is to run 5W-30 synthetic in our vehicles. I recently switched to 10w-30 (Mobil 1) due to all vehicles being older and over 100k miles, but I'm going to do an experiment and switch back for a cycle to see if I can tell a differenece. AFAIC, Lucas Oil Stabilizer has no place in a motor. It is a good additive in gear boxes or diffs IMO, but that is not based on testing either. B

I'm guessing the thunk is something you feel as much as you hear? From the rear area? Check the lash in the rear diff (drive shaft rotation before gear/axle engagement), I've noticed our R50 has the same thing occasionally... B

Screw Farcebook! Realistically, how technical is Farcebook? It isn't, that's not the point or the mindset of the users. The forum has slowed a little over time, but that is mainly due to people moving on for one reason or another and also that most Pathfinder problems have been solved and documented. This means that a savvy forum user (they don't even have to join) can search for answers to most questions/problems they might have and never have the need to create a post. Then there are the people that wish some interaction, join, post a thread in the members section and are active participants. With the constand influx of new Pathy owners, NPORA is not in danger of stalling out any time soon. Google WD21. The first listing is Wikipedia, the second is NPORA Forums. That's got to tell you something... B

You had never seen one before? They are like locusts out here... Yes, definitely get one if you can find a non-rusted/good condition one for a decent price. They certainly ride/drive a bit different than an R50, that is for sure... Agreed! People parting out, aftermarket parts get recycled, junkyard runs with wish lists, people making components, etc. Not to mention there are still a lot on the road, so I don't see a problem with parts for a long while. Still, do what I do and dedicate a shelf in your garage for things like headrests, steering wheels, arm rests, MAFs, TPSs, ECUs O2 sensors, etc and slowly collect them over time... B

Off to the Garage section it goes... B

There are a couple of threads that break down exactly which year and model trannys are the desirable 'heavy duty' versions, and even what is different about them. All bolt right up but I thought with a couple you wanted the computer as well. I don't know the info, off hand, but it can be looked up quite easily. Learn to use the 'advanced' search and it will be very helpful. B

There is a recent thread on this in the R50 section. Apparently you will always have the CEL light on, which could cause it's own problems. Might want to hit a local junk yard and just replace the part... B

Putting in a tranny cooler, bypassing or unclogging the stock cooler and changing the fluid would be where I would start, some people have had success with that. I personally argue to also install an inline filter and a temp gauge so you can trap particulate and monitor running conditions. Welcome to NPORA BTW. B

Making it to my destination. B