Precise1

Ok, I crawled under mine, and there are no bolts on the outside, so that cable must be a slip fit into the back and only the cable goes through is my guess. If yours doesn't budge, it is probably rusted in place?. Do you not have the replacement cable? What does the end look like? Here is what it looks like without rust. B

It is pretty tame, if you want a flame thrower, use starting fluid. Almost as good as WD-40... B

I'm sorry, maybe I can't read today but I'm not certain what happened. P0152 is the code for the left bank (B2) front heated oxygen sensor-rich shift monitoring. That you ordered wrongly or the one that needs replacing? Just trying to clarify for the archives. B

Might as well do all the ones you touched before that are relatively easy to get to. There is no wait time. If this 'cures' the problem, you might want to go back and apply some di-electric grease as well. The WD-40 is more of a troubleshooting/temp fix. B

WD stands for Water Displacement. An old dunebuggy trick, then the dizzy cap gets wet the engine misfires. Pull over, pop the cap, give it a 1 second shot of WD-40, put the cap back on and drive off. B

Yes, the 1998 has two and as I look at the 1995 again, the diagram is so bad that there could be two as well. Either way, just take them all out... B

WD-40 would work better and faster, that is what it is for. B

Looks like one to me, as per BR-27 of the FSM. B

Ignition, meaning make sure it had spark, then pull a plug to make sure it is getting gas as well. B

Look at the garage/How To section, there should be a thread on installing body lifts. You are going to have to do most of that work and other things not listed. Do go slow when lifting and check everywhere every few inches. B

My crank gear slipped right off, no tapping needed. Bingo! You have to pull the gears to change the cam/crank seals anyway so it really isn't any extra work at all. B

^This. Worked for me a few times and is cheap/easy to try. I know a mechanic who says to just push on the brakes, do not pump because it can mix in bubbles. You must have a very limited view of field! B

Makes sense to me. So you should keep listening. I was trying to be nice but you have a point... B

Ok, hahaha. I thought you were on ice... Please don't do that. It is a waste of... everything. Maybe why there is a Farcebook page where it should stay. B

^X2 on the gravity bleed. Firmed up the rear brakes and got rid of the ABS (or whatever) light, recommended ala Simon. B

Brilliant! That has what bearing? You were still sheitting your pants when I was wheeling... I don't know the reason for it, I just know I never had any use for it and I'll bet it wasn't to use your starter as Wrok Krawler drive either. B

So you are saying the reason the reason for the switch is to use the starter to provide locomotion when the RPM would be too low? That is the intended use? Just remove the engine and add batteries then, the perfect wrok krawler! Yep, I have pulled mine into the driveway that way before, a total of 30 feet. A come-a-long does the same job, just slower; I doubt that was their intent. B

We are talking about a clutch switch, meaning the ignition will not respond unless it the clutch pedal is depressed, ie. safety starting. The clutch in my first Pathy worked exactly this way. What does this have to do with low RPM? It only applies when you are starting the engine. Yeah, lower gears/wrok krawler/etc but that applies how? B

13mm square drive, it can matter. Of course adding fluid is better than ignoring it, but draining the previous fluid is the best scenario. Keep at geting it loose... B

That last bit wasn't English, so... UCA bolts. Are they tight/no shims dropped? U joints or CV joints? I'll refrain from other guesses. B

You kill you engine a lot when crawling? B

Exactly! Stupid thing is aluminum, mounts on the underside only (read damage amplifier) and weighs about 7 lbs (center section only). We got it so we can 'nudge' another vehicle and the 'don't cut me off' factor of having a bar up front. Useless or a liability otherwise, but who am I to shatter a dream? B

+10 HP!! I never understood it, you can press the brake and clutch in almost any situation, then brake to gas while modulating the clutch. B

Easy, 4-6 bolts, same as a WD21. I put one on ours that we grabbed at the local Pick-n-Pull. B

You aren't the first nor that last that I will bag on for removing a cat. That one obviously needed replacing, but to wilfully remove one is socially irresponsible. Just because the polution isn't directly impacting you doesn't mean it isn't being innecessarily created. Cheap aftermarket cats that don't hurt performance are readily available. People who live in places that do not inspect vehicles tend to think polution controls are optional. Nope, of course I'm not perfect but I do try to do things right, and a catalytic converter is a pretty easy thing to manage. B