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Precise1

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Everything posted by Precise1

  1. -33 degrees F... F that! I can't imagine living there... So when you start up that cold, do you get oil flow and pressure right away? B
  2. Good find! Those look almost like they do new from the factory! Hah! Good idea! Make sure to get heated seats and to hook up a battery under the table... B
  3. Good job, and thanks for taking the time to post the picts and explain them. I'm sure this will help a lot of people down the line... B
  4. ^Exactly! Everything from tune up (maybe O2 sensor or coolant temp sensor), to tire size/gearing to your odometer working properly. B
  5. ^x2, and yes, you can cut the center piece out to make room for the lights. I think I still have a set of lights floating around the garage... B
  6. With the WD21 there are brackets that are mounted on the inside corner to bolt to and distribute the weight; I can only imagine the R50 is the same. B
  7. Good questions... The snapring should be available if it is a standard size. Do you have a pair of calipers? You need to measure the snap ring ID and thickness within +/-.1mm. Is there any identifying info in it? Do you have Fastenall in Canadia? http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/fasteners/retaining-rings-and-clips/retaining-rings/external-retaining-rings/_/Navigation?term=&termca=&termpx=&sortby=webrank&sortdir=descending&searchmode=productSearch&zipcode=&filterByStore=&filterByVendingMachine=&r=~|categoryl1:%22600000%20Fasteners%22|~%20~|categoryl2:%22600135%20Retaining%20Rings%20and%20Clips%22|~%20~|categoryl3:%22600139%20Retaining%20Rings%22|~%20~|categoryl4:%22602509%20External%20Retaining%20Rings%22|~ B
  8. I'd make time and be concerned, it is gasoline leaking. B
  9. Look in the local junk yards or call around on cheap/part cars. I too have one I'd love to sell, but you are too far away... B
  10. You are welcome, I just wanted to make sure you had covered that. Good job, sounds like you know what you need to do. B
  11. What size tires are on it? What size does the driver's door plate say? For that year, the speedo is cable driven and there are different gears that can be changed. Here, this should get you started... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/28934-speedo-gear/?hl=%2Bspeedo+%2Bgear B
  12. I do agree with this as well, but I think the arguement (other than the sake of simplicity) is that if there is missing/damaged components or someone's home shop jury rigged set up to pass smog, how long is it going to function properly, ie. is it reliable? I drove a dune buggy for years that was not smog legal due to components but it ran so clean the smog tech tested it twice, and his own car once in between to double check the sniffer, so yeah, I know how it goes... The point is, it isn't going to go away, it is part of the price of living here. B
  13. I think you would notice if it was running 3 teeth off... Did you remove your crank pulley and inspect the keyway, woodruff key? They have been known to shear or damage the crank snout. Definitely rule that out before buttoning it back up. B
  14. The 3rd largest and most populous state in the US housing 12% of the population (38 million, more than Canada's 35 million) and it still has wilderness, open areas and clean air in most areas. I'm thankful for those 'crazy regulations'. B
  15. Still 1/4 the price of a stock replacement; who wants to pay more, but I still wouldn't complain, considering... B
  16. It is easy to loosen and suspend the belt to test if the sound is gone. LOL @ trying to rip a cat in 1/2. Does the screaming come from you, the cat, or both? Seriously, make sure all the belts and pulleys are spinning. I once seized an alternator and it sounded like your 1/2 cat experiment... There is a good write up for the timing belt in the Garage/How To section. Read that and it should guide you through it. Yes, I do advise changing it all, especially if you don't know when it has been done before. I recommend quality parts as well, but name or price doesn't always mean quality (just better odds). My attitude is to replace it all with good stuff, box up the old parts for trail spares and expect it to last another 100k miles... B
  17. Yep, amazing it even goes out the door like that... Something tells me you mean me (see my signature). I'm sorry you had the same experience, it really is pathetic... Good job figuring that out though, especially in that weather, but then $700 is a bit of motivation, eh? I too have learned to check connections before replacing parts. I haven't heard of a lot of coil failures and probably wouldn't premptively replace. If it really concerns you about getting stuck, then buy a junkyard emergency replacement to carry... B
  18. Sorry, I forgot this link in my post. http://www.factorynissanparts.com/Partlocator/index.cfm?siteid=214081 The 5% discount code is for NPORA members, it is listed in the Classifieds/Vendor section in a thread. The timing belt is the most important part to have quality, and as was said, Gates and OEM is a good idea. Warranty doesn't mean much if your pistons kiss your valves... I've had a Nissan idler howl like hounds of hell were under the hood. You just have to track down the source... B
  19. That is remarkably cheap, so I don't think you can find a better price, but you can get better quality. Just for comparison, see what all that would add up to here for factory Nissan parts. Two notes, make sure it isn't your idler puller bearing making the noise and if you change all that stuff, make sure to change the thermostat and bypass hose at the same time. How old/how many miles is your timing belt? B
  20. Not that I have owned, but I haven't owned all vehicles. Fair enough, but it is common knowledge that the TBI set up is not exactly stellar either. I wouldn't want to own one for several reasons, needing to pass smog is one of them. We are talking about his MPFI swap, right? B
  21. My point is that the EGR does help with tail pipe emissions, and isn't an onerous or problematic (or significantly power robbing) component. While it can clog, it is simple to address (clean it) and being an exhaust gas conduit, if it is clogging that means you have a poorly running engine to begin with (exhaust gasses loaded with crap). Doesn't make sense to say it will cause poor emissions when it only helps, but can occasionally malfunction if the engine runs poorly to begin with. Some smog control devices are effective and makes sense, regardless of the general hatred. B
  22. In 28 years of smogging cars, the only one that ever failed due to EGR system was a 1978 VW Beetle, and that had 2 pipes with a filter in between and was likely the original. EGRs aren't usually a problem from my experience, and if they become one it is usually due to something else. B
  23. I rolled down the window so the cat can sleep it in. He's been wondering why I put his bed in the driveway and locked it... B
  24. Yeah, but in LA aren't they taking pictures of themselves? B
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