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fixinto last won the day on May 13 2017

fixinto had the most liked content!

Previous Fields

  • Your Pathfinder Info
    1996 Pathfinder SE 4x4 MM, manual locking hubs. 31x10.50 R15 hard wired fog lights, port matched heads intake / exhaust, port matched exhaust manifold. port matched upper to lower intake.
  • Place of Residence
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Standalone Tool Chest Mechanic
  • Your Age
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Weekend Warrior
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  • Year

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  • Country
    United States
  • Interests
    fabricating metal, electronics, auto repair, guitar, pooches, masterba......errr i mean self improvement. ;P haha

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  1. Water valve? The one on top of the intake? Did u ever fix the problem? And you don't have to have the fan on while topping off, just turn it to hot.
  2. Water valve? The one on top of the intake? Did u ever fix the problem? And you don't have to have the fan on while topping off, just turn it to hot.
  3. Dont forget you have about an inch to an inch and 1/2 of adjustment where it hooks to the throttle body. Pat
  4. If trapped air isn't escaping the tank it would fight filling it up as well. Evap purge valve charcoal canister and so on. I know it is a little vague but hopefully that is a decent place to start if you don't get it lined out. Pat
  5. Ya probably just needed to sleeve the cam surface but don't matter now i guess. Pat
  6. Thanks for the update, glad you got home safe and the problem solved. Pat
  7. on 3.3 injectors they should be on the top of the injector. Anyone know the real difference between the colors? Is it flow or length or pin outs or what? Pat
  8. Battery to fuse 59 and fuse 60, fuse 59 goes into the combo light switch on pin 5 R/Y wire. fuse 60 goes into the combo switch on pin 8 Red wire. outputs are as follows. Pin 7 R/B wire is passenger side low beam pin 10 R/G is low beam driver side. Pin 6 R/W is high beam for passenger side and R/L is high beam for driver side. that should give u all u need to fix it. "shortcut" skip fuses and switch all the way to the headlight. R/B "pin 2" to Black "pin 3" should give u voltage. If voltage is there wiggle the headlight connector at the back of the headlight and see if it lights. "skip fuses because the high beams would not work either if they were blown" if you have voltage at the head light and wiggling does not help, it is probably the bulb. Maybe your alternator had a spike and smoked em at the same time. /shrug Hope this helps man, i only had 3 to 5 minutes to look at it and another 5 minutes to post because i am on my break at work. Pat
  9. Back brakes are more responsible for your brake feel than the front ones. Adjusting them correctly will stiffen up the feel a lot. other than that, if the lines are old and getting wore out, when u first hit the break the lines expand slightly and that will cause that squish feeling, pumping it makes it feel more firm because the lines are finished expanding so there is no "give" so to speak on the second pump. ;P Hope this helps P Pat head mother effer ;
  10. On lunch and didn't have time to read all of the comments. Sorry if already said above. VALVE COVER GASKETS! ;P mine were leaking really bad and i could never find the oil trail because it was leaking out of the valve cover onto the header and burning off. When i pulld them out they were like hard platic instead of soft rubber. hope this helps at all man Pat
  11. would probably blame it on a filter flow problem or if it has been a long time since it was changed i would entertain something broke loose and clogged the lifter rail or something like that, but more than likely it is the filter that collapsed internally and or the bypass valve didn't work. Glad it is clearing up for you though. Pat
  12. ya leave that idle screw alone, its bad joo joo, the idle is in the back of the intake on the driver side but does sound like bad dizzy hope it worked out for u
  13. Good Job sir. Bet your spark is a nice hot white now. =)
  14. About the die when u put it in gear. does it die because of bad idle or does it seem like it is killing power to the Ignition? If i am not mistaken you mentioned die from park to gear, but not from neutral to gear. in that case it is probably a "switch" or sensor that sees it come out of park. Neutral safety switch maybe? not sure on an auto, i have crawled all over my manual xmission one, but just not sure about the auto. sorry. and keep in mind everything i am suggesting is just that, a suggestion. so if it idles rough and hard on startup, or after warm up that is all clues to what can be wrong. if it runs fine in the morning but idles crappy and dies at lights after its warmed up or seems to have a really rough idle after warming up, but smooths out with higher rpm that is classic symptom of a vacuum leak. so every seemingly minor detail could be important. either way, there is a way to check everything on that vehicle. so don't start throwing parts at it. it can get expensive fast. be sure to verify whether it is bad or good first. Plenty of utube material that is good about testing stuff out there. even if it doesn't specifically say it is for your vehicle it still applies in general to a lot of it.
  15. If you are getting spark, thats good, it eliminates several possible faults, smelling fuel and having fuel injector pulse are 2 different things, also not starting on starter fluid is a big deal. So as said above it could be an air thing, or that orange spark should be a hot white spark and your new dizzy is not getting the job done. I would get a spark checker and see if it arks properly, because in some instances a weak spark is the same as a no spark. Try to unplug the M.A.F. and see if it will start. If you pull the plugs again and one of them is really washed down with fuel you may have a stuck injector. thats about it for me.

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