Precise1

I try to be helpful... Not so much of a project, more like getting it to brake properly and replacing the axle seals. I should install the rock sliders, Xterra roof rack, a pillar gauge pod, power inverter and winch though. You sure you got enough beer? Any time you are in the area/want to come by. It's always nice to meet and greet! B

Good point, I noticed this as well! Some other NPORA member described a great system for the casual mechanic. Get a piece of cardboard of the right size, grab the gasket (whatever you are working on), label TOP or FRONT as appropriate (make sure of orientation!), lay it down and trace it with a Sharpie. Then punch holes where appropriate and put the bolts in them. BAM, no mix up! I had not thought of that before and have not needed it since, but remember that it would have saved me some madness irritation effort in the past... B

Yes, you can. I did on a stock 1995 by myself other than the proceedure I described. You don't even have to actually pull the tranny, just remove the crossmember that the T-bars tie into and slide it back far enough to do the work. I highly recommend replacing the rear main seal while you are there... Probably the #1 reason to install a body lift other than tire clearance. It has made so many other things easier to deal with... B

Sorry, I forgot that part. Sounds like body lift it is then... B

Socket, long extensions, a swivel and 2 people. Have one person underneath snake the socket/extensions up along the top of the tranny and have the helper guide the socket onto the bolt head and hold it there. It is actually pretty easy with that approach. B

I haven't been wheeling for years myself and have never taken either of our Pathfinders off road yet, so don't feel bad. Oh, I know where you are, just over the hill from me... So, locally I can think of a few places: Hollister. http://ohv.parks.ca.gov/?page_id=1179 Carnegie. http://ohv.parks.ca.gov/?page_id=1172 Cow Mountain. http://www.blm.gov/ca/st/en/fo/ukiah/cowmtn.html Mendocino National Forest. http://www.fs.usda.gov/main/mendocino/maps-pubs I'll be working on my WD21 in a week or two and depending on how fast it goes... B

Classic! Perfect example of PO thinking they know what they are doing. Glad you got it fixed and the best way possible, quick, cheap and easy... B

Just for the record, the Pathfinder should be able to fit 31" tires stock (assuming correct width/backspacing range if the rim) is the suspension is not sagged and a 1" suspension lift to prevent a rub is easy, so a body lift should not be necessary. B

Good sleuthing, I had not heard of that. The ground wire you describe normally goes to one of the blots hogding the heat shield on the manifold IIRC. That was a long time ago and I have headers now so I can't confirm 100%. I'm wondering if the ground isn't to the ECU like MAF sensor does which is why you can't locate it? Read this, and maybe that item will help... (I'm not good with electrical) http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/36667-bad-maf-harness-ground-nissan-official-fix/ B

This coming from neutral drop man? B

The motor swap puts you so far from stock, it doesn't make sense to add in the comparison. B

That is part of the reason I chose it. I still have to add a few items, but I'm not medically trained so to carry much more would not help. Most injuries in the woods are going to be lacerations (probably not serious), sprains and fractures anyway. That is a basic break down. Makes sense though, basically along the same lines as what my friend explained. It has been too long since I've taken a CPR course though, and they keep changing it proceedure. B

What I don't like about that pack is that they don't list what is in it. I have no idea what military first aid training is... Here is my 'extended' pack. http://www.cheaperthandirt.com/product/MHR-325 B

Yes, but tear down is an over statement, more like loosen 2 bolts, insert shim and tighten 2 bolts. It all depends on the age of the vehicle, mileage, road/weather conditions, driving style, maintanence, if it was used off road, etc. There is no set amount, a friend of mine bought a 1991 pathy with 140k that had after market poly bushings that were shot, and others haven't changed the stock ones at 200k. Your best bet is to jack it up, try to move the tire and see what happens... B

Sorry, I'm not very familiar with the R50 front end but I will tell you, this is probably part of or the problem. Can you have someone turn the wheel while you watch for movement and go clunk hunting? B

I have one of these in every vehicle. They will handle just about anything I am qualified to do, and up to gun shot wounds. There is enough room in the case to add what ever you want from bandages, to mosquite repellent to a whisky flask. http://www.cheaperthandirt.com/product/MHR-728 Another good one I ran across looking for something else http://www.cheaperthandirt.com/product/MHR-340 Here is overkill unless you are a trained medic. http://www.cheaperthandirt.com/product/MHR-516 I cant seem to find the one I have for household use/grab for an outing. It is a 6"x10"x16" bag filled with goodies, similar to this. http://www.cheaperthandirt.com/product/9-100075 A couple of important points. What you have with you makes no difference if you are not familiar with it and know where it is. A first aid guide is helpful for two reasons, to give to someone to shut them up and to give to someone if you are the one down. Nothing is going to help you if you don't know how to properly use it and you won't be focused on studying if someone is screaming and or bleeding heavily. I have taken long back country trips with a friend who was a paramedic for the county of San Francisco, and it was shocking how little he brought with him; a bag no larger than what I described. His explanation was simple... "I don't have my magic van to put you in, so either you will be alright and just have to deal with it, or I have to stabilize you/make you mobile and get you to help ASAP, or it's going to kill you and there isn't crap I can do about it out here." Be prepared to splint a leg, plug a hole, stop some bleeding, provide warmth, comfort and relief to some one and then focus on getting them to the people who can really help them. B

^exactly! The 2" lift is slightly easier, but most of the work is the same. Figure out what tires you want to run or the look you are looking for and go that way. I know you said 31", I am just reiterating. If you do the 2" lift, beware, some bolts might be too long and punch holes in the floor pan. I found this out the hard way and wrote it up in the thread posted in the Garage/How To section. Just for reference, here is a WD21 with 1 2" body lift, 2+" suspension lift and 31" tires. Someone else want to post up a 3"x3" lift with 31 or 33" tires? B

Step one would be to bleed the system. Top off the clutch master cylinder, bleed the slave cylinder (on the passenger side of the tranny), and then bleed the damper on the passenger firewall. I'm pretty sure that is the order stated... Do not let the master cylinder suck air so keep that checking that reservoir! Then see what you get. B

That ticking is probably from the exhaust manifolds, the stock studs tend to break allowing a leak which partially seals as everything warms up, but yours is probably made worse by what sounds like a clogged catalytic converter (restricted exhaust and rotten egg smell). B

When you get sick of that stupid old truck, I'll take it... It is actually a gear drive, with a worm gear adjustment screw on the top. You loosen the lock nut, and turn the set screw clockwiase with a screw driver, holding it in place while you tighten the lock nut. This is the last thing you do after you verify all the other components are in good shape and that there actually is play in the box. Even then 1/8-1/4 turn is usually the most you will need to turn it, it is a fine adjustment. The stock idler arm can be rebuilt for a few dollars, there are plastic bushings in side that can be bought from the dealership. Yes, the idler arm and centerlink are the most likely culprits left, but make sure to check the control arm bushings (jack it up and wiggle the wheel, watch for any movement) as well. There is also a rubber flex coupling on the steering shaft by the firewall (rag joint IIRC), make sure that is not torn or deteriorated. I'd avoid a steering stabilizer until you have identified and repaired the issue. No benefit in masking a problem... B

I have a couple of these NIB, and a coupon to get one free with any purchase. PM me your addy and I send you which ever you prefer. Cheap crap, but they do work (I've tested them against an Extech MM) and are better than nothing. I collect them to give them away, but have one in my tool bag as well http://www.harborfreight.com/7-function-multimeter-98025.html Quick trip to a junk yard, look in the Classified section for a part out or post in the Parts wanted section. NPORA: Quick & easy solutions to your needs and problems... B

You are Abby Normal. It could be quite a few things, so... There are some sensors to check, connectors to wiggle and a engine control unit to check for stored problem codes. How mechanically inclined are you? The directions are in the Garage/How To section, pinned to the top... B

I don't know the cut off, but from Nunya's expert description, I'd say 1991 or 1992 or earlier but it is just a guess. One trick that seems to work well is to weld some small angle iron to bottom to reinforce and protect it. Best of both worlds, cheap and easy... B

I believe the older, I-beam style are tougher/more desirable but only the really hard core off roaders bend the thinner, later year version. They should be perfectly interchangable as others have gone from the late year type to the early year type. B

That isn't too much weight difference to affect things so what ever the issue, it must be quite loose. How much do you weigh? B