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Precise1
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Everything posted by Precise1
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I thought I had heard others mention modest gains in MPG. This is 1/2 the reason right here. B
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water leaking from left side of thermostat housing
Precise1 replied to pittmanjustin's topic in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
So I get that you are asking why it popped a freeze plug when you had drained the coolant system. Well, you only drained the radiator, not the block, and running it doesn't make any difference as that only circulates water in a full, enclosed system. There are drain plugs on either side of the block, apparently low and to the back, but the diagram is poor. When filling it back up, you want to also remove the air relief plug. Go to the Garage section, and download your own free copy of the Factory Service Manual and read go to MA-11. Next time you can avoid this, but the good news is once you have new freeze plugs in, everything should be fine. B -
New to building a 95 pathy and new member here
Precise1 replied to Nissanland's topic in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
The lower the profile, the greater the articulation range and depending on how high the front end is raised, the more load there is on the CVs due to angle. Are you asking how to replace it or what to replace it with? B -
That sounded off, so I measured a 1995 MAF at 1.97", call it 2" diamter with what the element channel allows by. So you are going from 3.141592653589793" area (interestingly enough, PI) to 7.0685834705770345" area, basically 2X? Is this really necessary? What about the flow rate? Have you considered the effect of reducing the velocity as well? Seems a bit extreme, especially since your exhaust is only 4.908738521234052" area. Breathing and farting well matters, but all too often velocities, back pressure, scavenging, etc are overlooked or negated. I'm not a car tuner, but I also know that wide open on both ends is pretty much only desirable when you are wide open throttle. B
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I vote the other direction. Put in a VG33 with VG30 cams, furniture, aftermarket intake and headers/exhaust. That should get you 180+hp, then adjust your gear range with the tire size, hence your improved mileage. A little more work than what you wished for, but much less than the reality of it and it gets you to the same place. So what is your true mileage now, what is wrong with the shifting and how does another gear make it more street friendly? I ask because I drove a manual WD21 for years and found it quite driveable, but maybe not finely tuned. B
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That's the Adam I remember!! B
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I fired it up, ran it around the block and parked it in the driveway so I can use the garage bay to finish restoring a table. The table had to come inside as it is freezing and raining, but that should rinse off the Pathy as well. B
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Rough and low idle shortly after seafoam in gas
Precise1 replied to ChrisFreeman's topic in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
The O2 sensor will put out 0 volts in a lean condition and 1 volt in a rich condition. I'd check it both hot and cold to see what the readings are, make suere they are in range and changing as well. That is about the only test... B -
No point. You explained the situation, it is temporary so you can take your trip without issue, then you will repair it so you can pass smog. Makes perfect sense to me... I can supply you with a stock cat or the info on a CARB legal Magnaflow if you wish. Now, if you were one of those pecker heads who punches out the cat because of WooHoo 3hp gain and F-everyone else, you can't tell me what I can do 'cause I'm a 'Murican, then yes, I'd call you on it. Have a safe trip and Happy Holidays. If you find yourself this way, you are welcome. B
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New to building a 95 pathy and new member here
Precise1 replied to Nissanland's topic in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
I'm sorry to hear that. My best wishes are with you. Geez, why so much rust in Warshington? Left hand drills and easy outs (square kind) for the broken bolts, soak the spindle pin with penetrant, and simply burn the stock UCAs out. That is a real problem... I hate wrenching in the cold (did it for too many years) but that is freezing! I have a few heaters for the same reason. Fire it up and at least make yourself more comfortable, it'll pay off in the long run. B -
Maybe they stopped doing that. I recall the sales associate suggesting I get the insurance since they were MTs and would be subject to... abuse. He said damage was damage, they didn't care where it happened as the tire is designed for use anywhere... B
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I believe there is a write up somewhere here, but basically soak everything in penetrant, remove the ones that don't break, remove the manifolds, remove the broken studs by drilling/easy out (left handed always preferable), or welding an extension to the end that can be grabbed and turned. A right angle drill might be needed, and the root diameter of a metric thread is always the major diameter minus the pitch, so M8x1.25 (IIRC) has a minor (root) diameter of 6.75mm. Thinking of clearances, etc a 4-5mm drill is appropriate, so 3/16 or smaller. If you are drilling, grind the end of the stud flat, then use a spot or center drill for the initial position, then follow up with the drill... B
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Snap ring pliers (just buy a cheap universal/reversable type) and use an Allen Head socket, they are easier and faster. B
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^Agreed. The trade off isn't generally worth the noise, traction, mileage, comfort, handling, etc if it spends a lot of time on the road. B
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They look great and should do everything you need them to. FYI I have damage insurance on my BFG MT KM2, I bought them at Discount tire. HG46 in our 1999.0 with open diff and 265/70/15, so you never can tell... B
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^x2 There are a few options with Amsol and Redline, but otherwise, definitely GL-4 only. Also, make sure to 'overfill' it with 5 liters of gear oil, easiest way is down the shifter throat... B
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Most people do not use them, but some have with mixed reviews, including 'no issues'. Most aftermarket UCAs address the ball joint angle issue as well as camber (Calmini, SuperLift, etc) while the AC parts may not. B
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Take a look at the bump stops, a general rule of thumb is that you have 1/2" clearance for the lowers. You can measure to the body crease and compare with other people, and you can set the front end to be .5-1.0" lower than the rear (assuming the rear hasn't sagged) as they are supposed to have a little rake to them. B
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Looking good, and yes, most basic work on these is fairly easy. You have the added advantage of having access to a shop and knowing your way around a wrench. Go out wheeling with your buddy in the 4 runner and see if his ride height helps him at all... B
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Do you have factory upper control arms and how high is it cranked right now? Shocks shouldn't effect ride height, even if they are gas charged. You can change the front and rear independently and the only difference is that one end might be softer/firmer than the other... B
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^Bingo! Many of us don't want it either.... Haven't you learned about buying other people's junk yet? B
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Is there a bushing cup on the side not shown, and does the bushing fit snugly in the side that is shown? It is the bushings that holds everything in position, so as long as they are secure... B
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No input was better than bad input, and proper input made it run right? B
