Precise1

It could have been poor balancing, they way they were torqued, or maybe the PO just hit a lot of curbs. What width and back spacing are the rims? You shouldn't be having a rubbing issue as a 31" should fit on a stock truck and I don't recall yours sagging badly. B

Chase the 12 volt current from the battery, to the ignition and back to the starter. You can find the schematics in the Garage section/Factory Service Manual. The 1994 version will be just fine. Make sure you have good ground contacts, battery, chassis and engine... B

Yep, definitely an easy upgrade. B

Yes, exactly! I think they can only be one way or you can't line up the tensioning bolt. B

^Pretty much what he said. Yeah, that doesn't look good, way too much run out.... We will have to go back into the alternator swap thread and make sure the info about the split pulley is in there. Is there a junk yard or something you can grab a 1 piece pulley from? B

Busted!! B

Thermal expansion in connectors as well. I'd go about jiggling some wires/connectors to try to chase it down. I know my TPS in my '95 will act up every blue moon, I know exactly what it is when it happens... B

Crap, I didn't know that. That changes things... to 'get a 1 piece pulley'. B

Yes, what part wasn't captive? The ID on the pulley should match the OD of the shaft, centering and positioning it. I'd be skeptical if the nut was just holding it in position. Can you judge how much movement there is? B

I have driven around for over 6 months having to do the occasional tap routine before the starter actually totally failed. Not saying to ignore it, especially if getting stuck is a problem, but my experience is that in this failure mode they tend to die slowly. Sometimes they just need a good cleaning and re-brush but that is more work and risk... It wiggles out the front if you just watch and turn it appropriately. It's like a puzzle, or a key and tumbler, you just line it all up right. My friend says he took it out the top, but I didn't see exactly how. I never touched the motor mounts and don't recommend that for most people. The alternator is on the drivers side on a VG30, starter on the passenger. B

Back side? Set it down where it is stable, spin the pulley and look through the V groove. If you see much movement in the position of the V then it is either off center and/or not tangent perpendicular to the shaft. Was the locating diameter and mounting surface the same with the V pulley as opposed to the other? B

Agreed, that should be readily reparable. Sorry to hear it's been a bad week for you and yours... Done. B

Damn, I'm sorry to hear that. I hope everyone is all right, that is what really matters. That's really hard to say without inspecting it or some really good pictures. That said, it doesn't sound too bad, it is surprising what a good shop can fix, especially if you are not concerned about perfection. The R50s (1996-2004) are unibody FYI; I'm not sure if that works to your advantage or not with this. If they want to total it, you can try to settle out and buy it back... B

It should fit in a pathy. Even if they tune it down and put smog components on it, it should still be over 300hp... B

And how is it now? A Pathfinder is definitely a vehicle worth holding on to... B

Well, it should only send 0-1 volt ideally, 0V being the lean end and about .1V being ideal by their chart. Hard to go much leaner than that, but it suppose it is possible and that it might trigger a knock. Still, all the failures I can recall have been on the rich side... Do you recall the resistance Ohm value to check it for function, cold? B

Never heard of that, unless it is running so bad it is stumbling/knocking. B

Also, for detailed troubleshooting, go to the Garage section, in the pinned thread about Factory Service Manuals and download a copy. B

Torsion bar front end, so you tighten the adjuster and the front end lifts. If you run out of adjustment (thread on the bolt), you re-index your bars... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/17038-how-to-re-index-your-torsion-bars/ I adjust the bars with the truck on its wheels, so you can tell what the actual effect is. Clean off the threads of the adjusting bolt as well as possible and lube it with some oil; it will make it easier to turn and reduce the likelihood of galling. Measure from the ground to the body crease before and after so you know, and keep an eye on your bump stop gaps, 1/2" is about the agreed minimum when lifting. Remember, the higher you go, the steeper the angle on the CV joint and that can become a problem. B

When it doesn't apply, yes... By my estimates, those are worth about 25 horsepower... B

Thanks for the write up Bud, I'm sure it will help people... B

Yes, a suspension lift is pretty easy on these. To change the rear springs, you have to let the axle droop (remove the shocks, brake line fastener and swaybar, jack it up, support it by the frame, then lower the rear axle. You can articulate it manually and the springs damn near fall out. Be sure to clock mark everything first and line up the spring ends properly). The UCAs up front are 4 bolts for the ball joint and 2 bolts for the spindle. B

Why not just get a Nissan R50 stock brush guard and just bolt it on? A brush guard is a brush guard, no need for complicating things... B

Alternator=generator and voltage regulator combined. You are thinking of the old school generator with a voltage regulator mounted elsewhere, which does not apply in this case. I don't think an American car has been made with the old generator/VR system since the early 70's... I'd say changing the alternator is the right thing to do (assuming all wires, cables, connections are in good order). Do you have any need for more amps than stock? There are a few options... B

LOL, I see that now! I thought he missed a comma, not randomly inserting the last two digits of his model year. B