Precise1

Exactly, the rim width and back spacing needs to be known to make a call/comparison. Something like 7-8" rim width with 3-4" back spacing should be appropriate for a general guide line. Yes, the lift (done reasonably) is that easy. I wouldn't steer you wrong... Yeah, you had bad experiences, but while the front ends aren't ideal by any means, many people get them to work. I didn't recommend him changing components though, just raising it up a bit with the stock parts. Plenty of people have done so with reasonable part life unless they were being too aggressive or unlucky. Chalk up the previous experience to the PO and try again... I didn't find the link yet. Try searching yourself and I will try again tomorrow. B

Not to my knowledge... B

Thanks for the explanation Adam. TR, there is a thread pinned somewhere on it and I believe it covers all the junkyard spring options as well. Let me know if you can't find it... Silverton, he plans to do some towing and 33" tires will put more strain on his steering components than 1-2" suspension lift will put on his CVs, which is why I recommended 31". With the same t-bars and JGC springs which are longer, not really much stiffer, the ride is not affected much at all... I can't recall where the thread is about the slider, but I'm pretty sure it was an Aussie or NZ who did it. Let me know if you can't find it. B

Because these things are heavy for their size. I have no idea what they are for, perhaps a factory skid plate that was never introduced (here anyway). They don't look tapped... B

Glad you got out, and good picts, thanks for sharing! If you want to improve your trucks capability without spending a lot of $, I would recommend a few simple things. Rims and tires (whatever you can find a good deal on, used, locally, etc. preferably 31" assuming you have 235/17/15) Poor Mans Suspension Lift ($50-100 depending on route) Idler arm brace ($30ish) Slider plate to minimize centerlink twist (threads about it here, $20) Rear sway bar disconnect (custom) So $200+rims and tires (keep yours for daily driving/towing) and you will gain 1" static clearance, 2" suspension lift and greater articulation in the rear. Best of all, it will still look bone stock... B

Devil is in the details, eh? Good job... B

I highly recommend running power directly from the battery terminal to the lights with good gauge wire via a relay to the switch, same way it is recommended to re-wire the stock headlights. I know there are several threads on that method. To power my illuminated switches, I just tapped off of something existing, like the cigarette lighter wiring. Which lights did you end up getting, and what is the wattage/draw? B

I'll say x2 for the BFG MT KM2. They are mid range in price, a good tire and not very loud. A lot of people swear by them, but I have heard that a lot of people swear at them in the snow/ice, like most MTs. Not an issue for me so I rate the tires well overall. B

Ok, so what size and offset is your rim, much less tire size? B

So would 4" HVAC ducting... Without starting with intake and headers, there isn't much to be gained from the exhaust other than a cat back system for a stock motor. It will help a little with power and sound a little better, that is about it. Not saying to avoid it, just that the gains aren't tremendous. (will help higher RPM power). I have a 2.25" system with headers and a 2" cat. I can't imagine going bigger than that, and 2" all the way probably would have increased low end and reduced noise slightly without choking the engine at high RPM. Quite frankly, I laugh at the 2.5" straight pipe crowd, what the hell do they think they are gaining out of a 3L 150hp motor? I have some factory down/Y pipes in decent used condition (heat shields attached) that I have no use for. PM me if you are interested. B

So what does the FSM and related TS have to say about it? B

Correct as I understand it. B

A few people have rebuilt their MTs and from what I gathered, it is not terribly difficult other than getting the pig out, especially if you have previous experience. If you can, I'd drop the tranny, pull it apart as see what failed (sounds like you are on the right path). A simple rebuilt kit might solve it... I question the random gear box swap as it is a gamble, you rarely know how it has been treated. Regardless of what you do, remember to use GL-4 only and overfill the case with 5.1liters IIRC, the TSB is found in the Garage/TSB section. I'm sure there are a few threads on the MT rebuild here, so give it a search and let me know if you cant find anything. B

Exhaust covers everything from manifolds to tail pipe. What part needs replacing and how much do you want to spend? B

That sounds like it. That is only the passenger side though... B

Good, glad you got it figured out! 5523Pathfinder is the mechanic who took the pictures and wrote it up, I just provided the link... B

Here is a picture that should explain... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/12828-how-to-change-your-timing-belt/?p=204015 B

Good tip, but I'd be afraid of breaking the plastic. I found a WD-40 soak, then grabbing the injector with a rag and twisting it slightly back and forth while pulling straight up worked quite well for me. YMMV... B

No, you are missing a bracket that mounts across the top, and it looks like the tensioner mounts to that. The tensioner will be above the water pump pully and slightly to the left. I'll see if I can find a picture... As for the missing bolt, I'd guess m8, but just a guess. Can you measure the hole ID with a pair of calipers? The ID will be aproximately the OD minus the pitch... B

He is talking about the swing out tire carrier. The tire mounts via the lug nut holes of the tire on a protruding pedestal with studs in the face. A rim has backspacing or offset, basically how far the mounting surface is from the side. Technically, your rim might have more back spacing than the length of the pedestal, meaning it would contact on the side before the mounting surface, meaning to wouldn't be held properly, and might even damage the rim if the lugs were tightened. This is unlikely, but still possible... If the rim can be placed on the spare carrier with the mounting surfaces in contact but the side of the tire/rim not touching the frame of the carrier, then you have no issue. If that is hard to follow (hard to describe), let me know and I'll find a visual representation... B

Yep, this is not in question. B

Yes, the same color marked injectors is what you should use. B

Hard to replace a pickup with anything else, but the trailer option is a good point as well. If ythe Pathy is paid for and you won't get much for trade in, keeping it as a second vehicle/project is attractive... B

Good luck, I hope it works out. Oh, and injectors, I forgot injectors; they are color coded... B

Agreed! (I have all 3) I'll keep you in mind if I run across anything, and good luck. B