Precise1

In the last link I posted for you... I checked the drive flanges I took off of our 1999.0 R50 and the bolt pattern seems to be 6x83mm (3.264"). The spline is 1.16" wide. They were sitting in a box in the garage that says... LOL They will fit! Do you need a picture of the box and them mounted on our R50? Tell Mile Marker to shut up, send the damn hubs and update their fitment chart! B

I'm sorry, you posted this in the Parts Info sub-category and it seems to have been overlooked. I will move it to for you... B

http://www.4wheelparts.com/Drivetrain-Differentials/Mile-Marker-Supreme-Manual-Hub.aspx?t_c=12&t_s=237&t_pt=6075&t_pn=MIL435 Sorry, I didn't see your Toronto location before, that might change things. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/25855-locking-hub-install-with-pictures/?p=561047 I'm pretty sure they are the same as the WD21, but I'm trying to verify that. I recall almost mounting a WD21 autohub on an R50 and and couldn't, only because of crenellation s on the spindle; everything else is the same. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/30359-mile-marker-hubs/?p=576446 Ahh, here we go... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/25662-manual-hubyearspline-information/?hl=%2Bmile+%2Bmarker B

15 town short distance runs on a good day but 20 cruising on the highway. Here is the trick... Swap out the permanent front drive flanges for manual locking hubs. I did it with Mile Markers for under $100. You lose the 'on the fly' 4x4 option when they aren't locked in, but then you don't need that all year, do you? Also, change the fluid in your drive train with a good synthetic and make sure your tires are properly inflated and your brakes don't drag. You should be able to get 20mpg on the highway; I do in my 1999.0 with 175k on it. B P.S. Tune up, with air filter might help, I don't know the maintenence you do.

Your voltage test, both running and not, and then a new battery rules all that out. I would check the ground connections for the battery and the starter connection for positive as well. Then set up your meter on the positive at the starter and see what voltage it gets when it cranks; it could be the cable, several people have replaced theirs. If you still get good voltage to the starter, then that might be the issue. My experience with a battery with a failed cell was 8 volts and no cranking power what so ever and that was after a no issue 2 mile drive to work and 9 hour rest. B

Well, I glad the vehicle is basically sound. Sure, the other stuff is a loss, but can be replaced... Did they bother dusting for prints or anything? I know with a lot of car thefts the cops don't do anything unless it is an expensive vehicle or high profile owner. Not fair if you ask me... B

Nope, no noise at all. I just know that they take a beating (even worse abuse if you live in salt country) and it is impossible to check them without taking it all apart anyway. The bushings are cheap enough so I just plan to replace them periodically. Any appropriate socket/breaker bar or wrench will work, they shouldn't be too bad. Energy suspension poly through Steevo at Rugged Rocks... B

Rice, rice Baby! B

Do you guys not have a copy of the FSM for it? Have you checked the OBD2 port or confirmed that the CEL light even works properly? B

Congrats on the impending doom marriage and I hope you have a great road trip to kick it off with! B

I know the thread is M8x1.25mm and when I measured some old studs that came with some used Warn hubs I bought, there were two different lengths, 43 and 50mm. It shouldn't be too hard to pull one of the remaining studs to get an OAL from, just don't lose it... B

Well, at least it wasn't gone long and you know it has been found. Start on the bright side and go from there. As was mentioned, people will help you with parts and advice if needed to get it in shape again... B

Remember, he has a VG30I that was rated at 154HP new, not a VG33 or VQ35 and obviously those would be better choices. To address the OP, yes, your pathy can handle it but won't be spry or get good mileage. There are a few intake/exhaust changes you could do to help but not too much. I understand you are in hill country and how that affects things but realistically, how often and far are you going to tow the trailer? Why not stick with what you have/know/paid for and just not be in a rush when in transit? I suggest you get the trailer as you seem to want it, then set up Sarge to tow it and try a few times so see what you think. If it works, great! If not, I'll buy the POS for a reasonable price, all things considered... B

9 AFAIK my pathy spent 1 winter in Pittsburgh and then moved to California. It has very light surface rust in a few spots that I should clean and re-paint, but that is it. B

I have nothing stock to compare to. Not that I know of, I thought it was just shocks that made the suspension difference. I'm sure Rob Lacy (Alkorahil) would know... B

Ok, so other than the lights and racks, it is a medium or light blue stock XE? Sorry to hear about the theft, hopefully it will turn up soon and in decent shape. It is not unheard of... B

I'm a big fan of copy&paste myself when it comes to info redistribution. Thanks for the info on your springs! Do you have the info for the stock ones to compare to? So you only got 2" of lift? Your existing springs must be in very good shape, or not stock... B

Does the motor crank but not fire, or does the motor not crank? Check all your fuses, relays and fusable links first. B

Looks good Bud! Same color pathy as well... Ok, I will merge this with the "what did you do to your pathy today" thread... Put it on the front 1/2 and no one could complain... B

Agreed! Don't forget, the PDF titled idx is the index, for when you need to look something up. B

OOps, the battery was smaller than I thought, it is only 35Ah, but the dimensions are small as well (roughly 7.5x5x7.5", 275 CCA. I'm not sure it would start a pathy well, but it could be used for everything else) http://www.batterymart.com/p-12v-35ah-sealed-lead-acid-battery-group-u1.html?utm_source=GoogleBase&utm_medium=CPC&gclid=CPLjrvH9jbQCFWGnPAoduHcAhQ B

Ahh, yes, I have one of those somewhere as well. It is a but limited in it's size capacity though. This seems to be a better one... http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/WESTWARD-Oil-Filter-Wrench-1EKJ5?Pid=search You could even drill a hole in each foot for spikes like ^his idea. B

Very nice TXB, exactly what I plan to set up in my Pathy but had not done the homework yet, so this helps a lot. I did locate a 55Ah 12 AGM battery with fairly small dimensions (that I can't seem to find now) that I planned to use in conjunction to my Optima Yellow for winching/power inverter use, and yes, and isolator circuit is required AFAIC, and I don't want a battery in the back, especially with the associated cost/power loss. A must for any expedition rig (as I stated elsewhere). I'll find that battery info again and post it ... B

Do you have a shifter or a knob? I seem to recall that the later model (luxury model?) with the knob traction setting needs to have the front CVs turning for proper lubrication (manual hubs a bad idea). I can't recall the exact parameters, but it was discussed here so search for the info and if you can't find it, let me know, I wil dig it up. B

Yes, that rig was really well set up. If it was closer, I'd have bought it to use/transfer to a fresh frame. Never did get a good reason why he was selling it... What do you consider an expedition? Is it a caravan as well or just a single vehicle? Where are you going and what sort of terrain? What distance do you plan on crossing without contact, and where? My honest experience is that other than gas and cold beer, you can live in the hills quite easily if you wish. I rode a 6 week, 6k mile solo motorcycle ride living out of a tent and the gear packed on back (120 lbs) and had everything I needed to be comfortable, but had gas/store contact every 3-5 days. B