Precise1

Yep, the VQ35 has a timing chain. I hear the guides wear out on them but it shouldn't be for a while yet, and apparently you can hear it a bit as the chain loosens up. I agree with the water pump assessment as well, if it aint broke, don't fix it. It could well go another 50k miles... When you say fluids, are you including the brake, transmission (assuming auto), transfer case and both differential fluids? These are often overlooked. Only other thing I can think of is that there a re some power valve screws that can work loose and get sucked into the intake. It isn't common, but a problem if it happens. The solution is just some blue loctite, but it takes some work to get to the. You'll have to search/read up on it for more info, I've not owned/worked on a VQ35. B Oh, what about an aux tranny cooler?

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Well I'll be damned, someone reads that crap! B

Yes as is mentioned, and also you can use everything from a jackstand to a wooden block that goes from the ground to a wheel stud and keep is from rotating. The key is to have the item at the right length so the wheel stud is at either 3 or 9 o'clock position, and if using a metal item make sure to have something softer inbetween that won't damage the threads on the wheel stud. B

I have 4 twin tube 4' flourescent shop lights in my garage (I only run 1 bulb) left from the PO's 6 lights. 1 burnt out in the 2.5 years and and the other I simply took down and stored for later. If you are burning out the same light every 4 months, I suspect you have a wiring issue. I'm not an electrician by any means but I'm sure that is where you need to start... I have looked into more modern options and some of the nice new lights can be pretty expensive, but recently I have run into an option. Cree makes some 60 watt equivalent LED lightbulbs (bright white or soft) that work far better than the previous generation of LED bulbs. They are 9 watts and 800 lumens while a 4' bulb is somewhere around 40 watts and 2500 lumens. You can buy some cheap 2 sided fixtures, some bulbs and some Romex to wire with and redo the lighting fairly cheaply. The up side is that being rated at 25,000 hours, you shouldn't have to replace anything for a long time! Personally, I find the buzz, and flicker from the older lights annoying, not to mention when one burns out, it always seems to be where I need it, but like you I'm just riding out my current bulbs/fixtures until I have to do something about it. Check out your wiring first, but take a look at these, I've replaced a bunch of CFLs and some incandescent in the house with them... http://www.cree.com/lighting/landing-page/cree-bulb B

You can rig up a spin on filter kit for about $30 other than fabbing a mounting bracket so I would highly recommend it! Jegs is the cheapest source IIRC... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/29350-automatic-transmission-inline-filter-kits/?hl=%2Btranny+%2Bfilter B

You can try some compressed air or even fish through a length of cable to try to clear it if it is clogged; I know a lot of people have dealt with this. I don't have sun roofs for this reason, I generally consider them a liability. The only time I used the one in our R50 was to check a load that was strapped on the roof rack... B

Devonianwalk, the Necroposter!! B

Are you sure that the leak is in the line its self, or could it be that the line is plugged and you are seeing where the overflow drips? I'd make sure the line is clear first... B

You have just found the flaming floor flaw, it is more common than you think. Just not enough clearance and maybe a flaw from manufacturing (the holes almost always develop pointing up). My first pathy had this issue as well, but my second has custom exhaust so no worries there. Definitely check for an exhaust leak there, that is almost always the problem. Thanks for the warning though, it is always good to remind people of this... B

Ok, just wanted to offer. Good luck and let us know if there is something you need... B

And now that you mention it, I have a rebuild manual specific for the Pathy. I can copy, scan or loan as needed... B

I bet that sounded pretty bad! Sucks! B

Driving 100 miles with a coolant leak is asking for it and I don't advise it. Everything from it failing catastrophically to overheating the motor is possible... Ok, it runs like crap. Have you checked the ECU for codes? This should always be your first stop, it might tell you what is going on... Yes, I could see the injector giving you problems if the connection is wet, but don't fixate on it. "When it warms up" means it is when the engine control system is engaged so check everything you can with a multimeter both hot and cold, and make sure to wiggle wires/connectors when it is warm/running to see if anything changes. In the last 6 months I've dealt with TPS and coolant temp sensor issues, and both times it was the wiring, not the sensor. Sure you do. There is a perfectly adequate write up in the Garage/How To section. Lack of tools or a place to work I can understand, but the directions are clear here and in the FSM... B

Yes, nothing should turn other than the rotor around the axle shaft, but driving that far might ding up the splines. I really would put the flanges back on in that case, I thought you were just moving it in a driveway or something. B

I feel for you, there is a lot of crap stacked in top of that knock sensor! A few people have relocated it to the bell housing due to this and it seems to have worked, but it sounds like you have it handled. Congrats on having a healthy Pathy again, hopefully it'll stay that way. B

Yes, it is safe to move for a short distance. The axle splines won't have anything to grip so it won't turn the front differential; no harm no foul. IIRC the front diff needs to spin for lubrication on those years (you don't have a shifter, just a selector knob, correct?) but again, for just moving it it isn't a concern. You might want to put the old flanges back on along with the C clips just to keep everything in place... B

I can not recall, but old threads in the Classified section are set to auto delete, something like locked after 30 days of inactivity, deleted 30 days later. Make sure you have your display parameters set to 'show all' and it might still be there, otherwise post this in the Classifieds/Parts Wanted section and see what bites... B

Well, you need to say that!! So, what number/color for what size/gearing? How about you post the part number info in the Garage/Part Info section for future reference... B

Exactly, but I usually use a piece of aluminum plate instead, it won't absorb the blow like wood can. B

X2 on the Hobart Handler 140 if you buy new. I've been looking into getting a welder for a long time now (just haven't done it yet) and for the 110V units, that is exactly the model I have decided to get; it is the best bang for buck and is highly rated. Miller bought Hobart to get their patented drive system, so what does that tell you? Also if you get that model, the 'new' ones have 5 heat settings instead of 4 AND a cast aluminum drive frame (or whatever) instead of plastic so make sure you get the 'new' version. Ok, I had to look. I'm pretty sure the model # you would want is the Hobart 500559 Handlerhttp://www.amazon.com/Hobart-500559-Handler/dp/B009X43F38/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1372969162&sr=8-1&keywords=hobart+handler+140 not the Hobart 500500 Handlerhttp://www.amazon.com/Hobart-500500-Handler-115-Volt-Single-Phase/dp/B0002PS7SA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1372969395&sr=8-3&keywords=hobart+handler+140 B

^exactly. Just cut the little pig tail off so you have a full diameter coil. Sorry, I don't have a picture but when you get a spring, you will see exactly what I mean and understand. Let me try a quick search for you. I'm certain there is at least 1 thread that details the speedo gear thingie. Here, this should do it! Like I thought, they are color coded so you might want to pull yours first for reference. Also going through Alkorahil with your VIN is always a good idea. Rob is a great, knowledgable guy whose job is literally to answer your questions and get you the right part. He has a thread in the Classified/Services section about the Dealership he works at (great prices too). http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/29235-vehicle-speed-sensor/?hl=%2Bspeedo+%2Bgear&do=findComment&comment=555947 B

Drilled a hole in a penny to use as an emergency washer for a bolt that was just a tiny bit too long, have a 13mm wrench bent at 90 degrees which is for getting at the rear starter bolt in aircooled Bugs but not too much else. I'm a machinist with 2.5, 5-6' tall roll around boxes so I have a pretty good selection which generally precludes custom tool making. Kind of funnyy actually, as I've made countless tools in the course of my employment. B

Sorry to hear, but I'm sure you have your reasons. Sounds like a prison sentence when you say it like that... Feel free to stop by and share your new ride with us. We are 'family' now and will treat you with the same respect... Best of luck and be well Bud! B

Use a penetrant, WD-40 is basically useless for this. Hit it a few times with a hammer. Hit it a few more times. Go get a bigger hammer. Rinse, repeat... Try hitting it from one side to another (180 degrees opposed). Damn, that is some serious rust! Them thar bolts be M8x1.25 B