Precise1

I don't feel comfortable walking you through it as I have not done it myself from mis-alignment. I think you have to line up the cam pulleys to the marks on the rear cover and then verify TDC with the crank, but wait for better info from someone else. I recommend that you start your own thread in the Garage section and copy/paste your posts here into it so people have the full story. Yes, but I was trying to address the 93+=round tooth misinformation. Not ALL '93s have round tooth belts/pulleys, the change was made some time during the year IIRC. Yes, I'm old, I have a pony tail and a cane. Which would you like to be beaten with? B

Damn, I'm not good with electrical issues and it sounds like you have done as much as I would have. Have you looked in the Factory Service Manual for troubleshooting tips or wiring schematics? It is available for download in a thread pinned in the Garage section. B

Thorley says auto tranny only, but I know for a fact people have installed them without issue on manuals as well, I just can't recall who right now. Thorley also says they can't be used on trucks with a lift, but I have a set on a 1995 with a 2" lift. IIRC, people go with the VG30 injectors as that is what the ECU is set up for and they can handle the 10% over. Please verify by searching/researching but I'm pretty sure this is the case. B

A lot of good tips in this thread! Very good! That one is a bugger, I learned about it when I stripped my first pathy... B

Just the fact that you have compression is the important part. Definitely replace the belt and then test again to get another set of data points but I'm pretty sure everything is fine, especially if you were just one tooth off. How many miles on the motor? B

As is said, as long as everything else checks out yes, I wouldn't hesitate to pay 3k for it if it is in mint condition. SoCal isn't the cheapest place to buy vehicles (people often forget that the value fluctuates with location), but thats pretty low miles for a 18 year old vehicle (less than 6k a year) and its getting pretty hard to find these low mileage pathys. I'd run a carfax, if only to see where it lived. Both my Pathys were from back east, but not long enough for there to be any rust, so that is one major consideration. I believe Trogdor has a Pathy that he is considering swapping out due to it haviing rust, and he is up in Redding. So, if there is no rust and the front end is tight, he will still be out $600+ for tires and the timing belt probably needs to be replaced as well. That is about $300 in parts as well if you replace everything, $600-900 if he pays someone to do it. Ask him what he is willing to spend for it, subtract $1k and offer that, explaining why. Oh, and I advise bringing a stethescope and a floor jack to listen, lift and learn... B

You are lucky I have a mind like a... oh, shiney... *wanders off* http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/32833-how-to-clutch-damper-bypass/?hl=damper B

I can't recall the part number (I'll try to look it up in a bit) but that does sound right. There is a real difference between the two, the earlier model being a long tube design and the later being a short tube design, also the placement of the EGR bung IIIRC. The website, and many others, will say that it won't fit certain trannys, but it is just a disclaimer. They will fit on both transmission equiped models. I got mine through Rocky Road Outfitters although they were on the shelf at Thorley IIRC and shipped from there directly to me. You might want to try Rugged Rocks, I thought he put together a group buy recently, but if not and you can find them on e-bay for a fair price, get them. Availability fluctuates from off the shelf to some people waiting almost a year. From the Thorley website... Ignore the 'no lift kits' part as well... B

Yep, people have complained about the damper, both the bleeding of it and the 'feel' of it. I have an automagic now so I don't have any additional experience with it. B

Yep, I'll just go ahead and scoot it over there... B

Well, considering that you did not properly line up the cam marks and they have moved, and the new belt does not line up correctly, I would follow the FSM procedure for a total off-time alignment/installation. I believe it has been covered in the previous pages or in another thread, but you can go to the Garage section where there is a Pinned thread of where to get your free copy of the FSM. I would recommend doing this regardless of if you use it for this application. From what I understand, early 93s have square teeth, late 93s have round teeth. I thought someone posted the cut off date but I can't recall it and there have been a few members who were fooled and wound up with the wrong parts. My suggestion if you have a 93 is to look first... B

I'm pretty sure the VG33 was only used in pathys 1996-2000 and 2001 to 2004 was the VQ35... B

*agrees* B

Unfortunately, I'd say the only thing rare about your D21 is the mileage, not that it was a low production vehicle. It is the model I would like to own, so let me know if you will sell it, but they were made for a long time and sold all over the world. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_Hardbody_Truck May I ask what state you are in? B

Yeah, the O2 sensor won't always throw code.... The curious part about this is the gradual change, it makes me think that the ECU is receiving progressively erronious information. The ECU does affect timing as well, have you checked the crank angle sensor? Also when checking sensors, make sure to inspect any connectors and fiddle with the wiring when it is running to see if there is a change. I've run into this on a few Pathys, the wiring isn't what I would call robust. Don't drive it until you check to make sure there is flow through the cooler. What is the fluid like? B

Glad to hear! Got any picts or info on who, what or how? B

^What that dude said. You can edit immediately, but there is a time limit. Unfortunately, the ability was woefully abused by a few, and it was making a mess of things so we had to take steps. Need something changed, just let me (or other staff) know. B

Most of the sensor stuff is just checked with an OHM meter, but it can be a little deceptive where they test right cold, but don't work right hot or something. Also, sometimes the issue isn't with the component, but rather the wiring or connector, so be patient and thorough when checking things out or you risk running yourself in circles. When you get this worked out, you may want to consider a tranny cooler and/or filter; the tranny is about the most expensive thing to replace. Also, don't forget to search the forums for key words, almost everything that can be done has been discussed here and don't be shy about posting if you get stuck. ^ What the parts pimp said, he knows his stuff. My buddy was over 2 weeks ago with his 91 and we worked on a lot of things. I showed him the temp sensor and described the problems people have had and while doing so, I wiggled the wiring. As he went to leave, when the pathy warmed up it died as if the ignition was shut off. I've never seen a pathy just die like that, and when we got it started after much cranking, it ran like crap with a mis and blew out black smoke when throttled. After checking a bunch of things, we tweaked the wiring and connector and it ran perfectly again. When he got home, he disassembled the connector cleaned out a bunch of corrosion, lubed it with di-electric grease and it's running flawlessly and reliably. The ECU really wants good input from that sensor! B

On the whole, I agree, but not everyone thinks/lives like that. I know I do my best not to, but then I'm first generation American, so it comes back to the European influence again I suppose. Regardless, I am definitely outnumbered... I'll go with that. There was at least one convert in the crowd who exclaimed what a great truck it was... B

Best to check it hot a few times after cycling through all the shifter positions (as per FSM instructions) and average the results. The auto trannys can be quite sensitive to fluid level from what I have read, yet 1 pint can move the dipstick reading from low to good from my experience. Best take the average approach and add only when convinced. I'll go and see if I can't link them. I'm not going to edit it yet, because there may be more than one type depending on year/model, or even an aftermarket install. I can't even tell you what year I took mine off of as I didn't care/think to check. If you have an auto tranny, yes. I also recommend an inline filter... I seem to remember the same picture myself. As for the straight tube part, well, it depends what is on the inside. Are there loops, rough joints or welds that material could build up against? We know it is a documented problem, just not exactly why... B

Good info in that link TC, I missed that somehow. Adam, any pictures of that filter cut open? B

Go to the Garage section, there is a pinned thread where you can download a FSM for free. The first year is 1994, but that will apply to the important 90% (main difference is dash and trim). You lower Hondas, your opinion doesn't count. B

x3 on possible timing belt jump. When is the last time it was changed? Could it be an exhaust leak that you hear? B

I could have sworn this has been covered, but perhaps not or it is simply hard to find. Good job, and the more the merrier for certain! I took the liberty of changing the title to the full name of "Transmission cooler" so it will turn up easier during searches. I will also be moving this into the Garage/How To section. What size is that cooler? I'll add a few additional items: 1)If you are worried about the stock tranny cooler clogging, install an in line filter between the tranny and the radiator cooler, that will solve the problem regardless. I believe there is a thread I posted which explains how to set up a screw on type inline filter for about $30, and I believe TownCivilian wrote up an install on a Magnafine in line filter. These should probably be linked... 2)There are 3 basic types of tranny coolers (if I have all this straight); plate type, stacked plate type and fin and tube type, the order listed is also the order of efficiency and durability. What Slarti is showing is a stacked plate type. Due to the limited mounting space a 3/4" thick plate or stacked plate design is recommended. 3) A good idea before install is to pick up a can of tranny cooler flush from your local dealer and flush both units prior to installation, I'd argue it is worth the effort. This is a plate type I pulled off of a Ford Exploder at the local P&P, I think it cost me $14-18. Yes, my P&P is expensive. The dimensions are 11x7.5" which roughly matches up to the B&M cooler #70268. B

I can't give you a good answer, but I can tell you where to find them... Go to the Garage section and download the FSM in the pinned thread. In that are some pretty good diagnostic processes, including for the auto tranny. Three things I would check right away is the ECU for fault codes, vacuum lines under the hood for cracks and proper connection and give the wiring for the TPS, MAF and engine coolant temp sensor (top front center leftish sticking out of the right side of the coolant passage, 2 in a row, it's the rearmost one) a wiggle when it is running to see if any of those affect the idle. B