Precise1

Nothing showing for me... B

Cool. Still seems a but stiff for aluminum bronze bushings, but that depends on what they do/how long they last, I guess. Let us know what you think. B

First, check the ECU for stored fault codes, the instructions are in the Garage/How To section. Any time you have wet electrical issues, WD-40 is your best friend. Carry a can and next time you have that issue, spray a few things you suspect (take apart connectors and spray them as well). Just make sure to only do one at a time between tests or you still might not isolate the cause... B

*snort* AFAIK as well, they are the same. Bandit bushings? Are those the brass ones someone makes or something else? B

Keep looking Bud. No, bad idea. If anything, leave it running in the driveway with the heat on full to desicate the damn thing, that is assuming you can't find it first... B

That would be Steevo, owner of Rugged Rocks, the link you are sporting in your sig... B

Obviously follow the good advice above, but... Mainly when you turn, right? Perfectly normal, almost all vehicles do that. Next time you are in a garage, stop and listen, it'll sound like prom night parking lot non-stop... Uhh, tires squealing, that is... B

Its not nasty until flies start flying out of the vents. Don't ask me how I know this... B

x3 on the magnets. I haven't had to do it on mine, but I have used the same idea on different applications. I'm probably going to a P&P tomorrow so I'll see if I can round some of those pegs up... B

A lot of good info here, a tune up and bottle of injector cleaner is always a good idea. As was said, passenger side back by the firewall and a small, long neck funnel if you need to fill, obviously. Don't go by the gauge too much as they aren't quite linear. Fill it up, run some miles, fill it up again and do the math, it is the only reliable method. Look in the Classified/Services section and check out the thread by Alkorahil. He runs an on-line parts department for a dealership, knows his stuff, has some of the best prices around for factory parts and does ship over seas now IIRC. He should be able to get you that broken brake line replacement. B

Well, it does in my 1995, and although the dash is a different design, I'm willing to bet your should also. I suppose after 21 years and 300k miles, a bulb or two could fail... Awesome little trucks, aren't they? B

Actually, yes, I believe I have heard of it once before. Very few people put on smaller tires... The stock 'chromie' wheels are available and what Pathfinders running 235/75/15s came with. Their width is 6" and they should be pretty easy to locate. This is what they look like B

x2 on the timing belt. No maintenance records? Can you ask the previous owner? FYI the 94 recommended change interval is every 105k miles so IF that was followed, you have a long way to go yet. The 'How To' to check the ECU for codes is in the Garage/How To section and is pretty easy. The 2 main culprits for poor mileage would be the O2 sensor and the coolant temp sensor for the ECU. I don't think they will throw codes but both can be checked with an OHM meter. They may read fine but be stuck or go out of range when hot so test then as well. Both are fairly easy to change. The parking brake has an adjustment underneath where the cable from the handle holds the cable to both brakes. Do you have rear disk or drum. If disk, I can't help, if drum, remove the drums (2 6mm jacking bolts IIRC) to make sure the pads are clean, in good shape, etc, reinstall the drums and adjust the brakes appropriately, test and adjust at the cable juncture if still required. If you are out of adjustment, your cable is stretched and needs replacement (like mine). Do yourself a favor and go to the Garage section. Pinned at the top is a thread about Factory Service Manuals. Follow the links and download your own free copy, it can be a big help... B

Nice! That's still fairly low mileage at less than 8k per year... B

Yep, you are welcome. Good luck with the search Bud! B

See if you can borrow one of those flexi-snake cameras. I own one and it would be perfect for this. also, look into one of those flexi-grabbers... B

Nope, I have about 3" of lift and still run the stock panhard bar locations. I do plan to correct the angle but it hasn't caused any problems. I am certain 1" lift doesn't need any modification. It would actually be harder to do..,. B

Hard to say the percentage, I think it had more to do with conditions, useage and luck. Both my 95s did not have any significant issues other than one with a slight tick when cold. The manifolds were straight enough to put on my friends 91 when he fixed his broken stud/exhaust leaks. Yes, I have heard that there was an 'extended warranty' up to 100k, but you better ask very carefully/get it in writing before hand. It might have expired simply due to age, but some dealers have honored it while others claim no such thing or total ignorance. I know it has been discussed here before so a search might be in order. Regardless, check with your local dealer beforehand... B

Ok, thanks for the correction. I had both off at the time, and it seemed really close and hard to get to. I'd still be concerned about spilling the antifreeze though. How do you have your tranny cooler routed? B

From my limited knowledge, no thermo works in older high performance, carburated motors in certain circumstances. The VG runs open loop until it warms up, then it monitors temps and adjusts timing and fuel map accordingly IIRC (correct me if I'm wrong). This all means you need to run above a certain temp at all times, but the more consistant the better. I've found that the Nissan truck cooling systems work quite well as long as everything is functioning properly, which isn't hard to manage. If there are any issues, consider an all aluminum race radiator, that would surely take care of it! The problem with changing the thermo is the time is the trouble to get to it. You have to pull the timing covers and if you spill any antifreeze on the belt, that has to be changed as well. For this reason, I suggest you get the stock Nissan T-stat (from Alkorahil, you will get a good price) and focus on the rest of the cooling system if there is an issue. I'm no expert, but I live in Cali and have taken a 4 week run down to Cabo in July in a D720, so... B

I'm not a welder at all, but I do know you would want to use fill rod and go slow/low amp as not to overhear/warp the crank snout. The good news is there isn't a lot that has to be filled. Maybe something you have 'pro' come and do on site for you? Yes, that was my initial thought, that it would be hard to hit 180 dead on. Upon more thought the pully would have to be perfectly symmetrical with an even number of valleys as well. it might not be realistically possible. B

Damn, that isn't good, but does explain a lot... Redpath88 did an on vehicle repair to his crank snout which I believe consisted of cutting a new keyway at 180* and indexing the pully, so it can be done. Wrong, fill weld and regrind seems to be the only way and Red bought different motor. So much for my memory... B Some links http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/31036-broken-crank-keyway/?p=587580 http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/31078-crank-snout-woodruff-key-question/?p=588473 http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/21986-rolled-crankshaft-woodruff-key/?p=387532

Considering that the ECU monitors the temperature and adjusts things depending on the reading , I think running no themostat is ill advised. The VGs seem to run better fairly warm and stable, and as long as the cooling system is in good shape it is more than adequate for almost any desert conditions. I'd say it would be qually important to divorce the transmission cooling from the radiator for extreme hot conditions. Sorry Bud, I can't advise you on the quality aftermarket brands. Any reason you aren't just going with a Nissan unit? B

Please do verify what I said though, I haven't done it myself so I'm just going by memory from what I read. I believe nefarious did the VG33 swap (as well as many others) so he would be good for varification. Is the exhaust the stock diameter? 1&7/8" IIRC? If so, I think you would loose a lot of the benefit of the headers as most people run 2.25-2.5". One option could be to resell the new exhaust, I'm sure they rust out all the time back there... B

Nice, I like it! Simple, clean and effective... B