Precise1

Yeah, it was my first 1995 XE. I drove it for a week or so with a slight stumble in first that smoothed out once I got the RPMs up. I started trouble shooting by checking the tune up parts first, and the cap had no center electrode and had a melted cone in the top so the spring was exposed. I put the cap on and drove it to the auto parts store to buy a new one. I told the guys behind the counter and they didn't believe me until they went out and looked at it, watched me reinstall it and drive home! A word of advice, I had an injector fail on me, but at first it was intermittent which made is a pain to trouble shoot. It would only do it if the car was driven until warm, shut off for a brief period and then restarted while warm. The failure mode was it tested good cold and failed hot. Unless you like to (or don't care about) removing the intake, I recommend you simply replace all the injectors on that side if you have to remove the intake. The other ones you can do one at a time if you wish as they are easy to get to. B

x17 I just dealt with this on a buddys Pathy. I had wiggled the wiring, then he warmed it up and as soon as it got warm, it cut out as if the ignition was turned off. After some experimentation, it was the wiring/connector for the coolant temp sensor. We disassembled the connector, resoldered it, cleaned it, reassembled it and it works perfectly. Point is, don't just check the sensor(s), check the wiring/connector as well... B

I already told him that it looks pretty damn simple to me, but I suspect he is being lazy. No worries, the last thing I do is force my help on someone who doesn't want it... B

Touche! And if you do, it has almost as much value as the product inside! The few I have looked at (not HF) always said something about overcharging protection, but I've never bought/used one so I don't know what that is worth. B

Doesn't it come with some simple overcharging protection, the other (and best) way in my book is to wire it up with a switch so you can shut it down any time you like... B

Yep! Thanks Bud... I talked to him about it last night and he said he might just take it to a mechanic. My response was "It's your truck, Moneybags..." B

Why bother with a hampster head gasket when you can do a gerbil swap? Oohhh, that sounded nasty! B

Posting this for a friend, so Doug says thanks in advance. When he uses the automatic roll up feature on his 2001 Pathy, the front drivers window will go all the way to the top and then roll back down about 4". I have not seen this in action, but he was pretty clear in the message he left. I looked it up and the FSM says to pull the door pannel (good time to look for anything loose, broken, etc) and then... Makes sense to me and seems pretty straight forward, but does anyone have any experience or input to share? Thanks, B

If you don't plug the inlet/outlet on the radiator, you will get ATF blown around the first time or two you drive, I found this out the messy way, so I just plugged them off with 2 short bits of hose, 2 dowel pins and 2 hose clamps. In some cases I believe the inlet/outlet are screwed in, so they can be removed and plugged but my way was easier and I had the materials on hand. Yes, you can bypass the stock cooler and just run the aftermarket, as long as it is a 6x11" stacked plate type or better. What I recommend, especially since you are adding a filter is to plumb it from tranny to filter to radiator cooler to aftermarket cooler, back to tranny. It shoud keep temps more stable overall with better arm ups in the winter and less chance for temp spikes in the summer. Every 'factory' auxiliary cooler I have seen is plumbed in this way and I plan to redo mine to match from running only the aftermarket cooler. The cooler you get off of the Ford should be 7x11x3/4" and I needed an 8mm wrench so be warned. I think the drivers side (left hand side) is the output for the tranny, but the lines may cross so best that you test with the 'pull a line, put it in a bucket and crank it of 1 second. DONT LET IT RUN UNLESS YOU LIKE CLEANING UP ATF!! There are a few good threads on this as well, let ke know if you need a link... B

I think that is the local SAR vehicle! I'd relocate the spare to the hood though. I love the reverse mirror! B

Fair enough, I have never seen a Pathy and Xterra engine bay side by side... B

Lighten up Francis! This is a forum, not a support group. People can say that they don't think it will fit or whatever, that is merely their observation/opinion, not talking @!*%. That said, it is obviously a very good job and an incredible amount of work. I wouldn't even attempt it as I don't have sufficient experience. B

I think this scenario is one of those 'doesn't look too bad on paper' that turns out to be a bit more involved than anticipated. One issue is where does the supercharger reside? Not like there is a lot of extra room under the hood of a pathy... B

So, also not trying to derail, but I wanted you to see this. I'm sure you can appreciate it to its fullest extent... http://www.wimp.com/combustionengine/ B

This is my advice: Run 87 octane gas and get rid of the MSD box. Honestly, what did you think it would get you? The Nissan ignition is plenty strong enough, to the point I have personally seen vehicles run with without the center electrode in the dizzy cap and in another case, plugs with .09"+ gap (burned that way). In both cases they started and ran reasonably well. Again, ditch the box, put it back to stock, clear the codes and then see what it does. B

Dude? He is in Poland and drives a R50 not a WD21! Thanks for playing though... B

Nice! The one at a local supermarket always makes me blink. "shingles shots available at the pharmacy" B

They fit quite well, look better and support much more weight than the stock WD21 roof rack. Anyone looking to install a roof rack, I recommend the Xterra one; same amount of work, superior results... It isn't too hard, but you have to cut down the front down tube to make up for the roof drop difference. If you are clever, you can re-notch the tube for the stock end clamp, you'll see what I mean. As he said, there are a few threads on it here. I have a roof rack in my side yard that needs some clean up and installation... B

As above, I have only heard of a few; Bosch, Brembo and Ferodo. I have used a lot of Bosch parts over the years, specifically for my air cooled VWs and have found that they make solid products, you get what you pay for principle. I don't know who made the OEM rotors for Nissan, but they are quality in my book. The front rotors on our R50 must be original, at 280k km they are worn so there is a lip on the outer edge but still within service limits for thickness. No warp or chatter what so ever, that is quality! Perhaps someone can chime in with the OEM brand name? B

Definitely an Africana type mod; it only rains here in buckets, occasionally... Great lay out and I will definitely remember this if I ever do my 2004 R50/VQ build. What I would have loved to see is under hood before and after temps. B

I suspect you have waited too long to for this to work out well... It sounds like you have the very basics covered, but engine oil and brake fluid should be on the list very soon as well. I can't recall why it was parked in the first place 3 years ago, have you taken care of that issue? B

I can only think of a few things that would make your rear end groan other than diet, so we'll try to keep it clean. Bushings: The 4 link/pan hard bushings, if badly worn, might allow metal on metal contact when under load (turning especially) that might cause a noise/vibration. Axle shaft bearings: I've never dealt with them, so I can't help other than say to download the FSM pinned in the garage section and take a look. The U joints in the drive shaft: I'm not sure that turning should have a significant effect on them/their load. Jack the rear up and properly support it, start the truck and put it in gear at idle first gear, then observe. I found my drive shaft was shifting the rear axle and pulling the tranny back and forth. When I replaced the U joints, 1 was dry and the other was brinelled badly. Couldn't tell with the wheels on the ground... I have no experience with the pumpkin so I am no help there. B Some after thought... When you jack up the rear end, rotate the U joint to feel for binding, reverse direction several times to feel for slop and then hear/feel by the diff for any binding/grinding/vibration. Also turn/move the wheels to see if you can pick up any play/vibration in the axle bearings. It is all subjective, but you should feel little to none as it will all be far worse under load.

You can get some decent bolt on/weld in replacement cats from Magnaflow for well under $100. I recommend you check them out when figuring out your set up. B

I haven't installed the temp sender yet, but I learned this from the tranny oil temp set up I have. You have to ground the sender unit... Good call Vagabond! B

Looks good. To help others out, what color mix did you go with? B