Precise1

Here are some Baja views. Not that I have traveled the world, but it is the first place that I've been where the desert runs into the sea. I have walked out of the surf after spearfishing in the Sea of Cortez, gone 20 feet past the water line and sat down next to a cactus. Don't think that desert is flat... My favorite wheeling is in the desert, unless you get hit by a monsoon/hurricane and then it can suck! Got flash flooded off the road in Death Valley on a motorcycle trip once... A WD21 is listed at 5150 and generally weigh in at 4000-4200 empty. If you have invested in suspension (like all good expeditioners should) that number will increase by a few hundred pounds, and you can safely exceed it by a few hundred pounds as long as the wieght is low and distributed. I will ask though, other than fuel and water, who the hell needs more than 500-800 lbs of gear? That isn't treking, that is called moving! B

Well, lets define range (between gas as any where with gas should have water and (crappy) food. In the lower 48 states you are never more than 115 miles from a MickyD, and where there are fries, there is gas... http://www.datapointed.net/2010/09/distance-to-nearest-mcdonalds-sept-2010/ Defender 110! Awesome, but I don't see it in the budget any time soon. My pathy will be set up the way I want it for under $10k and I'm moer than 1/2 way there. I'll play the hand I have... I fully agree with the 'stuff on the roof' concern, I don't have a roof basket and think putting a spare up there is a bad idea as well. I will install my Xterra roof rack, and I would love a roof tent, but barring that I would only use it for tools (shovel, axe, etc) and a aerodynamic, lockable roof storage pod. No pernanent weight on the roof other than a few gas cans in an emergency that get drained asap. I haven't heard of that cooler trick, but will try it. Grungy clothes suck, especially when you are sweating a lot! B

I'll give you a basic list of what I think are important, and it isn't all inclusive, just what comes to mind right now. Winch or Highlift jack (with recovery gear, shovel, axe) Power inverter (I have a 1000watt mounted to the back of the center console so it is accessable from anywhere) Dual batteries with an isolator switch Solar panel, 45watt min Communication (cb, ham, cell, etc) Hand held in nice in case you have to leave the vehicle. Water storage (1 gallon per person per day minimum) Water filtration and purification Water (it deserves another mention as it is so important) First Aid, a good set up, more than you know how to use without reading the book Roof Tent system Emergency provisions (ponchos, blankets, rope, rain gear, compass, signal mirror, etc) Extra Fuel (10 gallons easily goes on the tire carrier) Battery charger (AAA-D cell is nice) for all your electronics Proper 'survival' food that does not require water (unless you know this is not an issue), ie peanut butter, candy bars, granola bars, jerky, dried fish and fruit, etc) Proper packs, so if you have to walk out you can gather all you need and carry it safely and easily. Packs also double as storage and personal kits. Weapons. In my area, I could have to defend myself from bears, mountail lions or 2 legged rats. Anything from firearms (may be illegal in areas) to axes and survival knives that are designed as spear tips. Booze, you never know when having a stiff drink is appropriate, or necessary. Stove, some kind is necessary, even if it is just a screw on 1 burner. I won't mention things like sun shades, proper clothing, fishing kits, mess kits, flashlights, foot wear and the like as that is specific to the individual and the terrain they will be traversing. One more about water, IMO it is better to keep it in the vehicle, not under (think about it) and in several smaller containers so it is easier to stash, distribute and 1 leak won't equal a disaster. I've traversed the length of Baja California twice in 3 and 4 week trips, so I'm sensitive about water... Oh, here is all you need for showers. http://www.amazon.com/Stearns-SunShower-showers-Capacity-gallons/dp/B000NVC1JY B

It really depends what type of expeditioning you will be doing and how much you are packing up top. COG isn't that critical that a few inches is make it or break it, especially if it gives you need clearances or places to tuck things away. It does make it a lot easier to work on some items as well, which could make a big difference out in the middle on nowhere... Not trying to be arguementative, but I think the Pathfinder is a good size, at least for 2 people; I have done long treks in smaller vehicles. Its size gives it better mileage than some of the fill sized options and makes it more manuverable as well. About the only thing that it doesn't allow for is sleeping inside, but a roof tent takes care of that nicely and saves a lot of room inside. That is a great site, I brouse it often. Damn, that's why you think the Pathy is small, you have a friggin Mastiff! B

I hate it when that happens (the wrong part, never had the other happen). I'm not sure where in Texas you are but check out Rob Lacy (alkorahil), he is a great source for factory parts and information and is in the D/FW area IIRC. Best prices as well... WWW.FACTORYNISSANPARTS.COM phone 1-866-742-0297 B

Brave man! Good luck, I hope it goes well and works fine. Feel free to post your progress, I'm sure many people will be interested... B

I'm sorry, I missed that somehow. Is it hard for you to get a junkyard cluster to compare to? You might try removing your cluster, checking the brass screws, and removing/reinstalling the fuel gauge portion. A while back I had 2 1995 clusters, one with a failed tach and another with a failed speedo. I installed the good tach in the good speedo cluster and that went into my driver, reassembled the failed speedo cluster with the failed tach and reinstalled it in the parts truck. Next time I fired up the parts truck, the tach started working fine again after being dead for years. Not very scientific, but transplanting it brought it back to life. FrankenTach... B

There was a recent thread where someone had a wonky fuel gauge and it led to a discussion about the sender output (where I suspect your issue is), 6-94 Ohms IIRC but double check that. I don't know if it is the same for a diesel, but I'm sure you can look that information up and that is the first place I would start. In 10 years of driving round dash 1995s with failing(ed) speedos and tachs, I never had an issue with the fuel gauge and don't recall a lot of posts it being a cluster problem. Let me find that thread... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/36078-fuel-gauge-problems/?hl=%2Bfuel+%2Bsender&do=findComment&comment=676111 (oops, 3-94 Ohms) The sender float might be gunked up as well. There should be a hatch in the back under the carpet to access all that so a physical inspection/removal may be in order asd well. B

Exactly what Kingman said. .563" diameter should give you a decent rate/ride and you should get plenty of lift if you do the heat and bend to retain as much coil as possible, but don't get too carried away. If you detemper the coil, it won't help lift. IIRC the possible diameters run from .520-.590 so the ones you grabbed are right in the middle. If you are inclined for reference sake, measure the height of the truck to the body crease, measure the new coil length, diameter and # of coils, install, measure the height again and measure the old spring dimensions as well. If that sounds liek too much trouble, no problem, but data is always good... B

I don't think so, but can you get some dimensions for them (from online)? There is an indepth thread here on the sizes, coils diameters and rates, mostly courtesy of k9sar. B

Sounds like he didn't go off road, drive like an idiot or live in a salt state. My current Pathy is a lot like that with 107k on the clock. Other than some trim baked off by the NorCal sun, it is damn clean, straight and fresh inside, out and under. I paid 4x what you did but didn't blink as I knew what I was getting (and wanted it/needed a replacement). Good deal Bud! B

It is the easiest, most durable and reliable way if you are going to use it a lot. If you are on a budget and patient, watch 4 Wheel Parts for a sale on Mile Marker manual hubs, I got a set for $90 through them. B

Or just some redneck kid. I've run a lot of miles off road, just not in this truck. Some day you will have responsibilities and priorities and... Nah, you won't. B

Inside or out, or both? B

Yes, the hubs can get stuck, both open and closed. Have you ever taken them apart for service? It isn't hard unless you have a lot of rust, but check to make sure there are no broken items and only grease lightly on reassembly. After that I would test 4x4 engagement on a flat, dirt surface. You should be able to tell when 4x4 is engaged, but a little wheel spin should make it clear as well. That is where I would start B

Thanks for clearing that up, I couldn't remember from when I stripped my part-out-pathy. 1/2 the work was done at night or in the rain just before I moved into my house. I didn't have any time and just tore it down as fast as possible. I do recall having to cut a few hoses as well... B

Pretty much what he said from what I understand. I'm not a WrokKrawler but as long as you go easy on the skinny pedal and don't let the front end hop or spin up and grab hard you should be ok. The above mentioned parts are a good idea, but tie rods would be number one from what I have seen. I keep an old set for good luck... B

I think the point is to test them hot. If so, I'd warm it up and then pull the intake and test them. If you want to listen to them, I think you can get to them with a mechanic's stethesscope and the long bar extension from the top. There is a coolant line back there somewhere, but I think it goes to the lower intake. Otherwise, pulling the plenum is pretty straight forward. Some cables, wires, intake and the bolts and it should come off without a fight. I wouldn't try tio run it without the plenum in place as the MAF and TPS readings will probably freak the ECU out. B

WD40 is definitely the way to test it. I drove a dune buggy for years with an exposed dizzy and it was a standard 'fix' in the winter. Have a can handy and any tools you would use and wait until it acts up, then spray it down and see f it disappears. I prefer to determine the cause as much as fix it... B

Ok, the A/T module says it is the TSP, and when you check the TSP it is fine. Have you checked it both hot and cold? Assuming that checks out, it must be in the wiring. Start with the connector for the TSP and work back. I know sometimes my idle won't kick down all the way and if I wiggle the TSP connector, it drops down like it should. Some of the sensor connectors on these things are problematic. You have the FSM and that has the wiring diagram for reference... B

Remove the manifold. I think you can get to the front one if you remove the dizzy cap, but the other two are buried. Stabing wires isn't a good idea, even if you can locate them, you want an actual reading off of the pins. Yeah, I know, it is a PITA. B

Yep, Mr Jim pulled a dead semi off of the highway. Now that is something! Be careful with the stock bumpers Bud, they are just for looks. They are seriously the most flimsy bumpers I have ever seen. I swear that the bumpers on my VW Bug are stronger. If you love your Pathy and want to keep it, put aftermarket bumpers on it so you don't lose it due to a minor accident! B

They should all be pink plastic topped as per Nunya design. There is a dab of paint that color codes them as well, but I believe it is under the wiring connector boot so you will have to pull one to see. Standard colors are black, blue, silver, mauve, chartreuse, fuchia and some others I'm mixing up at this point. (the first 3 I'm sure about) Yes, hopefully is it a problem that solves it's self, but don't hold your breath, do your best to figure it out. B

As per the TSB in the Garage/TSB section. 5.1 liters IIRC, but 5 quarts and some spit will get you there. Don't feel dumb, feel ignorant. Ignorance can be cured (and we are all guilty of it), stupidity can't. B

Bad exbrit!! Bad!! B