Precise1

Sorry, I'm not familiar with the product myself so hopefullysomeone else can chime in. As for the color matching, I could help, but the photos you posted leave a lot to be desired in the sharpness and illumination departments. It is definitely in the 3 'Start with Blue' categories but we need something better to tell. Might I suggest that you take the picture in daylight, but probably not in direct sunlight and lay the color chart with the 3 'Start with Blue' categories laying flat on a flat portion of the armrest and then take a picture as perpendicular to the surfaces as possible. I'd also recommend using a camera but few peoople seem to have them anymore... B

I have the G-power in both our 1995 and 1999.0 pathfinders and they seem to work great. I compare back to back difference to the standard or v power plugs because when I replaced the original plugs, both sets were seriously worn so that wouldn't be a realistic comparison. As you said, they aren't much more and I am under the impression that the platinum tip should last longer. These are the claims of the G power plug... These are the 3 reasons I went with them and what are probably accurate and not so subjective. Nissans like to run fairly hot so that is a plus. I'd prefer the plugs not to corrode in the head. I have to pass emissions testing so I'll take anything that might help. B

Yes, better safe than sorry when it comes to the timing belt! I don't know why it would leak and then stop unless you had a puddle somewhere that you didn't notice that spilled when you started/moved the vehicle. The only other option I can think of is that you dont have enough coolant in the system to build up proper pressure and leak again. How much did it leak? Just a little/few drops or was there a stream? It came from below or behind the lower cover? I hate to tell you to take it all apart again, but I wouldn't feel good about not checking either. Also it is not good for the belt to get coolant on it as it can degrade the belt. Try to answer my questions and lets hear some other input, I have only changed the timing belt twice and might be missing something. You english is quite good and mucho mejor than my spanish! B

Can you post pictures of the plugs without homes or at least describe where they are/where they come from/what they look like? B

I'll bet a good sum the fuel door was open when it was shot... Other than that, WTH?? B

Agreed, I have an identical set... B

Thanks for the heads up! BTW, that always makes me chuckle when I see it: billet. Billet is one piece of rolled material, as opposed to cast material. Something machined out of billet is cut out of a raw chunk, plate or rod. There can be a lot of material waste from this process and it is not necessarily stronger regardless of heat treat due to lack of work hardening and/or grain structure orientation. The cams are made out of a forging, ie raw material that is formed in to the aproximate shape, then machined, heat treated and finish machined/ground. Far more efficient and stronger. Check out the cams and see how much of it appears to have a raw stock look, just the journals and cams are ground... B

So? It still fell and killed a guy. What does it matter what combination of ramps, stands and jacks were used? It was still done in the dirt on a slope which is undoubtedly the root cause. B

A cop? B

Nice! Glad you got it figured out, and thank you for the update. I'm sure it'll save someones butt one of these days... B

On a different note, I wonder if they'd sell me the truck cheap... B

We got it the first time, you don't have to rub it in... B

It is honestly true, isn't it? Other than some of the newer ones with factory electronic lockers, etc of course, but anything that was made at the time the WD21 was made, I'd take the Pathy hands down. Like he said, aftermarket has always been scarce for the Nissans but there is some left even though many parts are being discontinued. That is strange to me since now the pathys are old and cheap enough to pick up and modify; not many people modify 5 year old $30k 4x4s. Ultimately, the public never saw the Pathfinder as a valid offroader... Ok for a lift, what are you looking for? Suspension or Body? Bumpers: If you can find an ARB bull bar, even the one for the D21 (Hardbody) will fit with minor modification. TAC (Tactical Armor Group) is another source and they make a pretty neat wincher... There is a thread around here for sources. Some of the links might be bad, but it will still give you an idea... B

I've met several 70 year olds that were stronger and more fit than a lot of 20 to 30 year olds I see. Some guys don't give it up for a long time! My guess here is that he was alone, didn't have a place to do it and thought he could get away with it. I wouldn't be surprised if it fell when he was tugging on the tranny to get it out. Hopefully no one is thinking that they should have let gramps use the garage when he asked... B

Don't worry about the nomenclature, not everyone will call it the same thing. Print out what you posted and take it with you to the local store (if that is where you go) and show them. If you call Alkorahil (see Classifieds/Services for his thread) for the OEM part, tell him it is the second gasket from the manifold and/or the first 2 bolt gasket. The 3 bolt gasket is where the first pipe bolts to the back of the manifold. 2 best ways to find exhaust leaks are this and you often need to do both... Mix up some soapy water in a spray bottle. When the Pathy is cold, have a friend get in and start it the rev it a little. You should hear where it comes from so go there and look, then feel around with your hands (it's cold and wont burn you, but move fast). If it is a big leak you will feel it puff. If you can't find anything that way, spray the suspected area witht he soapy water and watch for bubbles or it simply being blown away. Sometimes a visual inspection will show black places that could be leaks as well. B

Makes sense. I'm guessing you have enough HP now that you don't use as much throttle and the engine simply doesn't have to work as hard. The entire system probably works more efficiently now. The larger displacement and fuel demand evens it back out again... B

The O2 sensor won't throw a code so check the output with a meter, hot and cold. Can't remember the value range, but it is here and/or in the FSM... Also, the temp sensor for the ECU, check it as well... B

Damn, what a stupid, avoidable way to die! I just hope it was quick and he didn't have a while to think about it... Jacks and jack stands are not to be trusted on uneven and/or soft surfaces. If I have serious work to do, it is in a level garage with a concrete slab. I'm lucky enough to own one now, but in the past I have either used a friends garage or taken the vehicle to a shop since I didn't have a good place to work on it. I learned a long time ago with a 1977 Plymouth Fury. I was just changing a flat tire parked on the street (at a slight angle) and all I had was the stock (stupidly dangerous) bumper jack. I had the rear end up and the tire off when the car leaned over a foot or so until the rear passenger tire was wedged against the curb. The jack was at a 30 degree angle and bound tight so I couldn't raise or lower the vehicle. Luckily it was still high enough to put the spare tire on, and after I did that I used a sledge hammer on the base of the jack until it popped loose and the driver rear tire fell back on the ground. The jack was mangled and I went out the next day and bought a mini-floor jack/jack stand combo set. Never again! At this point, I have a set ramps, 10 jack stands (2-2 ton units, I want 2 more) 2 mini floor jacks and a shop size floor jack. I always block the tires, set the brake, put it in gear and once it is raised, do my best to try to make it fall over before I get under it... All good advice! I've even set the factory jack in place with light pressure as a safety, it is mechanical and can't sag like a hydraulic jack can... Safety first, cars are heavy! B

Yes, but my experience was .100-.125" and I went a little too far and it crushed the bushing flange a bit so if you aren't sure, sneak up on it while test fitting. It won't take too long; I used a lathe but even a grinder/belt sander would work, just measure before you remove the material and deburr afterwards. B

Yes, it is, but go to the Garage/Technical Service Bullitin section to read up on it. The 96+ manual trannys had the filler hole relocated up higher to compensate... Sorry, I didn't proofread, pretty sloppy when trying to provide a link! www.grassroots4x4.com is the site I meant to say... B

Well, since there is no adjustment to be had in the rear, if they made it out like they did something, they jacked you around as well. I've not done an alignment myself (my local Firestone will work on my truck and do a good job, so far), but it doesn't seem that hard once you understand the goals, process and have tinkered with it. B

Agreed, many people have had problems with those studs. When I bought my Warns used they were shipped with a set of 1/2 stripped and bent studs. I promptly threw them away and installed the hubs with some grade 10.9 socket head cap screws and lock washers. I obviously used loctite, but backflushed the holes with brake cleaner and compressed air beforehand as well. No issues so far... My comment about the overtorque is just that threads will only put up with so much. Here is an example for perspective BTW, those are inch/lbs, so 31 and 24 ft/lbs respectively. That aint a whole lot folks! B

In all honesty, if your flares rub with 31" tires, especially on the stock rims, the issue is probably that your T-bars have sagged and need to be adjusted/re-indexed not trimming the flares. That said, some people like to remove the flares, but I prefer them on... B

You might want to look into the HooHaa centerlink option available at gressroots4x4,com coupled with the manual D21 steering box replacement for the idler arm. That would make the front end as bullet proof as possible with the tie rods being the weak link (the best as far as I'm concerned). Easily done for under $500 as well. All the info is here... Calmini is somewhat of a crap shoot for quality and often you can't get replacement parts without buying an entire new set up. Some people have had good luck/like the products while others have really bad stories. Click on the link in my sig for a brief example... I spy a 5 speed tranny! There is a TSB on 'overfilling' for proper lubricatiion in all situations, the gist of it is to put in 5.1liters through the shifter hole, Redline MT-90 is highly recommended if it is available to you. The auto locking hubs can be problematic, but it looks like there are manual hubs on already? B

You are welcome. That is how I learned 1/2 of what I know, someone took the time to show/explain it to me. Just passing it along... B