Precise1

That's not too bad, but how many miles is that 4 years? Did you not add zerks the first time? B

Good to hear, but what's the whole story? Found broken down and abandoned on the side of the road? B

Hah, you would ask me that! Sure, what the hell, but its not a fab I'm proud of, much less brag about. I made it in my garage out of pieces of scrap metal and it worked well enough that I never revisited it. On the top of the wheel well is a metal tree that a bunch of connectors are mounted to. I got rid of that, and made a sub plate that matched some existing bolt holes and would angle the filter the way I wanted it. I used a piece of U channel as a riser and the filter mounts on top of that via 3 tapped holes. Then I had to go back and make a spacer between the sub plate and the riser because it was too tall. The spacer is just a piece of 1" black delrin with a piece of rubber in between to dampen vibration IIRC. That dropped the filter enough that the hood didn't touch it. This worked out nicely because the space underneath the filter is empty. To change the filter I undo the 3 bolts just so I can tip/move it. Everything is aluminum and tapped holes so no fumbling with nuts. B

Oh, I know that is a race buggy that has been totally reworked for power, suspension and weight reduction. Still, it looks like it is breaking in 1/2. John Connor Racing? Carter? Coner? I know that is a company long gone that made some nice stuff... Too bad there isn't enough interest in the WD21 anymore, but they are still everywhere I look. It would be a nice dream to set up a WD21 specific rally circuit because while they aren't power houses, they will take being beat on all day. I'd say with dedicated front suspension/brake/lift parts it would be easy to set up. I'd only race a manual tranny though. I'll tell you what, if I ever find myself rich and idle, I'll run a WD21 through the vintage class in the Baja 500. B

Holy Crap! Great shot, but look at the door mismatch, that frame ain't straight! B

While I don't have the same amount of experience with exhaust, I agree with the above. My first Pathy had a good sound with a cat back system and a Magnaflow, but not too loud and obnoxious. My current header/custom system with a Flowmaster sounds great at idle/low range but gets loud and raspy at 3k+ rpm. B

So this one has the clear coat scotchbrited off and is almost ready for polish, paint or clear coat, the tape measure adds 3" so it is 7" wide (make sure that is good enough for 31x10.5" tires, should be though) and the mounting surfaces obviously need cleaning up. Just some old rims that need some love, set of 5. B

Shipping might not be that bad. The clear coat is shot, so you would have to paint/refinish them. Interested? B

Yes, a buddy of mine runs them and likes them. Where are you located? I have some rims sitting around that I'm not doing anything with that are 15x7" alloys IIRC. B

Ok, I didn't want to thump through 7 pages to see how well this is covered, so... Stock 1999.0 R50 going from stock alloy rims with Yokohama AT-S (great tire) 265/70/15 to Cragar Soft 8 (15x7"? Bought used, not certain) with 31x10.5x15" BFG AT KO. Main differences are: Category Yokohama BFG AT Notes Diameter 29.5" 31" speedo will read low by 4.5% Tread Width 10.5 10.5 Rim Backspacing 5.5" 4.75" Measured off of outside edge so not actual dimension, use for reference Weight 58lbs 70lbs Clearance NP Rubs slightly up front turning in reverse on flat, problem will be worse off road. Note, the suspension is soft on this R50 with the fenders measuring 32" up front, 33" rear with stock tires (.5-.75" more with aftermarket). I suspect some replacement springs up front will address the rub/clearance issue and level it out a better. I haven't decided if I will go with stock springs or a mild lift as this is our MallCrawler... I don't have enough miles on it to tell how the different tires impact mileage, but the Yokohamas ride nicer and I suspect are better in wet road conditions. The aftermarket tires fill the wheel wells better, especially with the different offset, giving it a better look and stance IMO. Again, once I bring the front end up a little they should fit flawlessly. A good upgrade if so desired, especially if you find a great deal on tires somewhere. Hope this helps someone... B

If you want bigger tires, get some other rims. B

The boots don't really matter as a lot of people leave them off anyway, reason being that they can actually trap dirt rather than keep it away. No issue if you want them there, but it's not really a show stopper... I only watched part of that video and already found some misinformation, when he talks about the shock being no good if it doesn't expand on it's own. Not all shocks are gas filled and will do that. The point I'm making is to be careful about just one source of information, sometimes you don't get the whole story. B

What the hell?!? The normal stance for a WD21 is slightly nose down, about .5-1.0". Measure the height to the body crease... B

WD40 won't last, it is basically a mix of mineral oil with a little vasoline (it's more than that but not much). I'll post the break down if I can find it again, but it is great for a light/temporary lubricant, sticker, bug and tar remover.... I lubed my carrier bushings with Lucas oil stabilizer (super thick oil), applying it with an acid brush. When it creeped after a few days I had to wipe some off, but it penetrated well and now the carrier swings so easily I really have to be careful. B

Not a bad idea, I did something similar to an old dunebuggy. A switch under the seat changed the current from the dizzy to the engine coil to a coil under the drivers seat, grounded to the seat frame and copper mesh under the thin seat cover. I have no idea if it would have been the deterrent I hoped for (it was never stolen and I never had the desire to test it on a friend), but it wouldn't fire the engine regardless. Great, you need to search the scrap yards. I know it is a manpower issue, but it would cut down on a lot of similar crimes if they shut down a scrap yard illegally accepting vehicles. If there is no where to take a stolen car, cars wouldn't be stolen for that purpose. Probably wishful thinking I suppose, but it still pisses me off. The cops seem to have time to ticket you or bust you for a beer, but not to find your car? Seems backwards to me... Been there and this is how I dealt with it. The tools in my vehicles are cheap and the minimum that I would need to fix something on the side of the road that is feasibly done. The good tool stay in the garage in a box and I have a few different bags that I can load up for specific jobs or scenarios. It takes a little longer to sort/load and sometimes you don't have exactly what you need, but on the whole it works fine and you don't lose your tools when someone is a prick. Just saying for the future... B

Odds are you are going to solder them... Maybe vibrations disconnected them? Seems to be too closely linked to be a coincidence ... B

Oh Fark!! The one in your signature with the motor swap that you just got back? So apparently you have some sort non-standard ignition that most people would have issues figuring out? Would it prevent the standard hotwiring or ignition lock mangling techinque? Are you sure it wasn't legally towed? I really hope it turns up soon and if it was stolen, that someone gets busted. I really hate thieves! What? They won't show up to take a report or post an APB or whatever? For those who need a look, here are some pictures of it 2 years ago, I don't think much has changed other than a roof basket? http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/23542-kingmans-88-se/?p=558723 B

That looks really good! Please let us know how durable the paint turns out to be... B

Nope, more like dinosaur, but you are welcome. Most of it is covered, but holler if you run into trouble... B

Good point! I suppose you could tie streamers or a parachute to it... Rattling can be cured with new bushings and proper latch tension. Both my WD21s had no such issue at all. B

My first thought is the U joints in the drive shaft. I recommend you do this: Block the front wheels and jack up the rear, putting the frame on jack stands high enough that the rear axle is suspended (level ground, of course) Put the tranny in neutral and manually twist the drive shaft forward and backward, checking for play, binding and any noise, where it comes from (obviously parking brake off so the wheels turn) Depending in those results, start the truck and put it in gear (forward and reverse) at idle and listen/observe. You should be able it identify or narrow down the source this way. I had some U joints start binding and the drive shaft shook the tranny like a tail wagging the dog. Didn't make any noise though. B

How many people do you know have a receiver up front? Other than being fugly, I could see it limiting vision and blocking airflow to the radiator. B

1) No. It is so easy, some people do it without spring compressors. 2) Let me find you the link... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/18-rear-spring-options-for-lifting-your-wd21-pathy/ 3) No risk. I have stock length shocks and jeep coils. If you don't remove your sway bar you'll probably never know the difference, but without the sway bar, the shocks will probably limit travel. I believe it is also discussed in the link. 4) Jack, jack stands, wrenches or socket set and spring compressors (recommended) If you have what you need and a buddy to help for a bit, consider it a 2 hour job. B

Ok, just making sure. I have made 1 skid plate and gave it away and will make a few more for my current truck as I have some material in the garage. Here is a picture of the one I made out of 1/2" UHMW PE antistatic (Black) for JJ Big shoe. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/17159-jj-big-shoe/?p=278787 Simple bends and held on in the stock mounting holes (but I used a damaged truck as a template, so the angle was wrong and the bolt hole pattern backwards. JJ rebent it and redrilled it to fit. Long story...) To form it I heated it with a propane torch while it was C clamped to the edge of a deck that was shielded by sheet metal, bent it to the desired angle, then cooled it off with water from a garden hose so it held it's shape. FYI, if you reheat it with a torch, it returns to flat! The reliefs were made using a mortal and pestle morter and a bottle jack and heated/cooled the same. Pretty high tech, eh? Worked damn well too. You have officially planted the idea to make some now that I have an R50 for fitment. This is basically how I would mount them to protect the cap screw head and dispurse the load; pardon my crude CAD. I hear you though, my truck isn't on the road because I can't seem to get to working on it for all the other things I'm doing around the house, but I don't feel bad when I do. Hell, I deserve some therapudic man-cave time and so do you. It keeps you healthy... B

Yes, many... Not trying to be the 'Go search' jerk, but there are many threads on that here already. The best solution I can think of to keep the OEM appearance it MY1PATH's hidden snorkel (hint, there is a thread on it). Correct me if I'm wrong, but I thought even in Cali they only care about what comes after the MAF, you could put on a cone filter or run no filter if you wanted... There is nothing regarding smog or engine control that plumbs into the air box. B