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Precise1

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Everything posted by Precise1

  1. My first Pathy did this and I looked at the tune up parts first as Kingman suggested. I found that the center electrode in the distributor cap was gone and the guide for it was melted away. There was a rusty spring sticking out and the spark was arcing from that down the rotor top. I put the cap back on, drove to the local Autozone and bought a new one. The people at the parts store didn't believe me until I popped the hood, showed them, and started it for them. Yep, great trucks! Hopefully your solution is the same... How long have you had the MSD ignition? What condition are the plugs in? B
  2. Sounds like the pump isn't running so like Rebelord said. Hopefully it is the peripheral components, but as 5523 said, the gas cools the pump so if you cranked a lot when it was emply... I'll share a trick for the future though, always fill up at 1/4 tank (if you have the $), just treat it like the new E. You shouldn't experience problems like this again, but most important is that you will always have some gas in case of an emergency. B
  3. I don't have the information to share off hand, but I guarantee it has been covered in the R50 section so direct an advanced search that direction. B
  4. Yes, the fuel pump isn't very loud and it should just run briefly, you need relatively low noise and just turn the ignition on and stick your head under quickly. If you have someone to help, get under and put a pipe, rod or long screw driver against the tank and cupped to your ear with your fist and then have them just turn the ignition on, NOT start it. No, the filter is a metal cannister about 3" in diameter, 4" long with a hose in at the bottom and hose out at the top. No way to tell what is inside without removing it at least. I don't recommend bypassing it, because if you do have crap in the tank/lines, you could foul the pressure regulator or injectors, causing more problems... B
  5. If that doesn't do the trick, you might need to test the fuel pressure (or have a mechanic do it). It is supposed to be 40+ PSI IIRC. B Well, either I'm slow today or everyone else is lightning quick! Um, what 5523 said...
  6. Quite possible that the filter is clogged, and you might have air in the lines (don't know for sure on these vehicles). I'd change the filter, there is no harm in that, especially if you havent before. It is in the passenger side, under the hood, held by a clip. You cant miss it... When you turn the ignition on, does the fuel pump turn on for about 5 seconds, then shut off? B
  7. It certainly can if you prioritize! No, I wasn't criticizing, just commenting on how convenient it is that a flat sheet can be used, almost like it was designed that way... As for the UHMW, yes 3/8 is probably what I would use but do you really think it would need that much more hardware? The plastic isn't really cheaper than steel, it was just the weight factor I was talking about. Certainly nothing wrong with how you did it... B
  8. 1) The title is to simply state the product in detail. e.g. Energy Suspension Polyurethane Control Arm Bushings > Polyurethane Control Arm Bushings > Control Arm Bushings. 2) Body must describe the year/model Pathfinder, product, list a part number and optional: when and where purchased, price, picture, link, etc. 3) Follow up with feedback is highly encouraged. 4) 3rd party input is allowed but only factual, hands on experience about the specific product. 5) This section is for reference so it will be tightly monitored and will be edited by the staff to maintain integrity. 6) Violators will be persecuted. We are hoping this will organize specific data and streamline searches for part information. Feel free to add what ever you have but please check to make sure you aren't duplicating another thread first. Since this is a reference section, please refrain from chatter. Feedback and suggestions are always welcome. Thanks for the suggestion Andreus009! NPORA Staff
  9. Of the wiring birds nest? I'll get it cleaned up when I put in the battery... Any time Bud, just remember to show us how you set it up. B
  10. I had assumed it was to keep the dust, dirt particulate matter out of the bell housing, but upon reflection, I realize that it is so the bell housing won't fill up when submerged as well, or at least not quickly. Think about it, if that is the only hole (at the bottom) and everything else is sealed, it can't really fill up due to the air not having anyplace to go. When I replaced my clutch, I didn't even think about it, I just sealed it per instructions. B
  11. When cranking the T-bars, indexing or not, lube the threads/nuts/adjuster with oil to reduce the chance of galling and make the turning a little easier... B
  12. Good point, I read that also, just in the last week or two but I cant remember who... Thanks, and I understand that as well. I use mine on multiple vehicles so the case suits me better for now. Yes, it will fit, there is plenty of room once you move the wiring connector tree and maybe shift the fuel filter a bit. I plan to put a second battery there myself, and move the oil filter underneath on a crossmember. My filter set up there is at least 8" long, 4" wide and 8" tall so you would have plenty of room, even for a nice sub plate so you can position it exactly how you want. That would probably be easier than the other side where there is more to deal with... B
  13. I have not heard of those specifically nor am I familiar with anyone running them so I can't help. As a PSA, we are working to set up a sub-forum that will be dedicated to parts, part numbers and what ever pertinent information is available. We have a few things to sort out first, but expect to be seeing it soon. This was a suggestion from a forum member that will be implemented, so if you have an idea to help organize or improve the site, please contact one of the staff. Thanks, B
  14. What are the actual dimensions and mounting requirements? You really only have 2 options under the hood, behind the battery on the passenger side and where the evap cannister and washer reservoir is (you would have to relocate them). While having to mounted is nice, it's not necessary for just airing up. Why not put it in an ammo box or toolbox, duplicating my set up. It is actually nice to grab it when ever I need it... 15x9x6" B
  15. Your best bet might be a custom bumper with a carrier on a hinge pin. I'll post a picture as soon as I find one... B
  16. Good point, I forgot that Adam did it as well. IIRC now, the kit came with a template of where to drill the holes. That alone is worth something... B
  17. Both my friend and I have the drop in filters, mine is K&N and my friends is Fram IIRC. I didn't notice any significant difference in power or noise, but I wouldn't expect to since I don't run clogged paper filters and no modifications were done to the box. It's more for the cleanability and not filling up the local land fill with disposable filters... B
  18. The 3 problems with the roof rack is the wind resistance might cause worse gas mileage, having to lift the tire up and down and the significant increase of center of gravity. It has been done, but I understand it can be challenging to get the reinforcement plates in place. Nunya is the one to ask about it... B
  19. I always prefer an exterior rack to inside or underneath. Some people complain about having to operate the swing away carrier, but really? Is it hard to walk over to the vehicle as well? As for loss of visibility, unless you have huge tires, you really don't lose much usable vision, and who the hell looks back anyway? You are supposed to drive forward and look that way as well... B
  20. Not terribly unusual, this is why you often see motorhomes on the side of the road 1/2 way up or at the top of a steep grade. That said, if your cooling system is working correctly, you shouldn't see much of an increase or at least not enough to cause problems. Part of it is the extra load on the motor and maybe reduced speed (therefore cooling effect) and part of it might be that the tranny is getting hot and putting the extra heat into the radiator cooler, increasing the temp of the coolant. The things to check would be that your coolant is in good condition and at the proper level, that the radiator cap is holding the proper pressure, that there is sufficient flow through the radiator, that the tranny fluid is in good condition and that the tranny cooler has proper flow. Something most people suggest is to plumb in an aftermarket tranny cooler but opinions differ on how. I personally recommend a fitler on the tranny out line into the radiator cooler, into an aftermarket cooler and back to the tranny with a temp gauge installed. It's not a big deal and not 1/10 the cost of a replacement tranny, much less the hassle. There are plenty of threads around here that discuss all that... B
  21. Yes, AFAIK the fuel pump always runs when the motor does, that is how it supplies pressure to the pressure regulator and fuel rails/injectors, but it shouldn't run constantly with just the ignition on. If you smell fuel, check the clamps on the rubber hoses the connect the fuel rails, the rubber fuel lines that run down the passenger side of the engine compartment, the filler tube for proper fitment/no leaks and maybe the lines that go to the evap canister. If you have extremely poor gas mileage, it is usually 1 of 2 things, the MAF or the O2 sensor, MAF issues is usually accompanied by running poorly. It couldn't hurt to check the ECU for stored codes, sometimes that will give you some information. B
  22. I would do this only after verifying the actual coolant temperature and that the sending unit was functioning properly, but yes, my experience over 20 years 3 different models/4 different trucks is that Nissan trucks have very capable cooling ssytems (assuming everything is functioning correctly). B
  23. No 'possibly' about it. I don't recall that, but I do recall it was tight where I couldn't get a good grip on them with anything and they would not budge at all, even prying and with my paws. I wonder if they used some sort of rubber sealant on them to insure they don't leak (easily) considering how burried they are... B
  24. Nice work, but it is basically cheating since you can use a flat plate and didn't even have to form it... If weight was a main concern, why didn't you use (UHMW) polyethylene? B
  25. What hoses were they? I'm asking because when I stripped the motor on the Pathy I parted out, there were a few hoses I couldn't budge and finally just cut them off. I think they were on the coolant passage that runs through the valley, the ones in back (its been a while). MaritimeMan relocated his knock sensor to the bell housing, as close to the motor as possible, and it seemsed to work just fine... B
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