Precise1

You are welcome. Sorry, I've not dealt with an open sensor for the ABS. The FSM says to check the resistance between control connector terminals 9 and 10. (top right two if the center pin on the bottom is empty or blocked off orientation)1.22-1.48 kOhms If that passes, check the resistance between sensor unit connector terminals for the same values. Replace the one that fails. Page BR-44 in the FSM. B

Click on the little sun burst to the right of the search bar, this is advanced search and I don't believe it is limited by date but thre are several filters shown. I have the best luck searching that way and a search for '+codes +list' or something like that should be fairly specific. That said, it does take a little bit of experimentation... B

The system might just need bleeding. The FSM says to turn off ignition, remove battery cable and remove actuator connector, bleed all 4 tires normally and bleed the ABS unit last. It took me a few tries and a gravity bleed from the ABS unit to get the light to go out. If you tow and there is nothing wrong with the system it's self, I recommend leaving it. The other option is to pull the fuse IIRC, and you have no more ABS (not sure about the dash light though). B

It depends which one and how it is attached. I'm just saying not to shrug it off. I've had getting seals to fit properly can be a pain... There is an empty hole in the back of the tail light assenbly where a bulb should be? Then there must be a wire and socket down in the body well. Go fish... (hint:mirror and flashlight) B

We are in complete agreement! B

I put in some of the oil stabilizer in the tranny. It might be snake oil, but the way it makes the oil cling makes sense to me in a gear box. B

I'm not familiar with the Pennzoil, it might be ok, but I'm steering you to what I know is suitable. That should work fine also, it is the correct weight IIRC. I ran 85w90 in my manual (couldn't find the 75w90) with some of the Lucas which gave me no problems other than stiff shifting in 1st and second when cold (a few miles) B

Yes, it could be several things, all the way down to coolant temp sensor for the ECU. I'm afraid you will just have to start checking things to rule them out. Start by downloading a free copy of the FSM, thread is pinned in the Garage section. With that you have some good trouble shooting info and can test the resistance of the coolant sensor and the MAF wiring, etc. Don't be discouraged, just start checking and you will find the culprit. B

Ok, about the Syncromesh... No thanks. Redline MT-90 has been proven so I would go with that if you need synthetic. Otherwise, if you can find dino-gl4 don't be shy about using it, especially if you change it in 30,000 miles (or 10 years ). Throw in 1/2 a quart of Lucal Oil Stabilizer to make it 5.1 liters and call it good. The manual states ATF for the transfer case and many people run it without issue. I'd put in gear oil (what is in the tranny) but you could save and use the ATF. I don't put a lot of miles on my Pathy either and I use Castrol synth blend oil with a Bosch filter. Change it every 3,000 miles/year and you'll be fine. I'm sure TownCivilian will show up soon... B

The bull bar does help, but I see an issue with the body creases as well. In your picture, they fade in and out, in reality, they will end abruptly and look really out of place. I'll admit, I'm more partial to the squared off look they originally came with. B

Doesn't look right IMO. B

^ What he said. Have you probed it to see how soft it is and how far it goes? It might not be too bad yet... B

Wait until you try a MT! B

That's kind of what I thought. You are starting to sound old, Adam. Your Laboeur rate is low, especially in CDN$. Last time one of our vehicles visited a stealership it was $130/hr (Toyota). That's insane, for a little more I could hire a crappy lawyer to do the work, then sue himself for farking it up! Needless to say, it's rare for one of our herd to go to a shop, much less a dealership... B

Hah!! So 'Oh exact one' does have some good advice... Glad you got it out and good job clearing the plug well. When a friend of mine replaced the plugs in his 91, they were basically seized. Every 1/4 turn was accompanied with the sound of metal screeching. We fully expected to break a plug or strip a hole, but to his credit, he got them all out over 6 hours without damaging anything. Definitely not a fun afternoon though! B

As a machinist, I have to ask what the hell 'inner hitch steel' is because I sure have never heard of it! Is that sort of like 'top sirloin' when you slaughter a metal cow? B

Maybe they towed with it or just never went over 60. There was a special addition; they had a few plaques on it announcing this, but didn't have anything different other than that. B

Ok, yes, that works out and makes sense. The next question is: is the speedo accurate. I find my gas mileage goes down once I get over 3200-3300 (and that is plenty fast in mine), but it shouldn't hurt the motor at all. If the speedo checks out, then I'd probably just go with larger tires, 30" or 31" when you replace the old ones. B

Well, those are the taller gears... Well, there is part of the problem. 99% of pathfinders came with 235/75/15 (29") or 31"x10.5 tires. I'm guessing that a simple tire size change is what you need. What size tires do you have on the vehicle, and what size does the door sticker say? B

Maybe in the R50 world, but you won't hear me agreeing in a WD21. One of the best statements I've heard for a while... B

So 5 qts is probably good. Just make sure to lube the seal on the oil filter with fresh oil before installing and only hand tighten. Usually only 1/4-1/2 turn after the seal contacts. Why would you replace the drain plug? That would be totally unnecessary. As for crush washers, it depends on the type, but I often reuse them and only change them when they are obviously deformed or compromised and none of my vehicles leak... B

I don't know of any that run at 3500+ at 70 mph, that seems a bit high. What motor do you have? What gearing do you have? (plaque on the passenger side fender under the hood will say either HG43 or HG46) What sized tires do you have? What size does it say on the driver door sticker? B

How much for the rake selection? B

1. Install new skid plate (shouldn't be an issue) easy unless you have rusted/broken bolts. Even then, still not a big deal. 2. Oil/Filter change (not a problem) Hopefully not. 3. Maxima Alternator Swap: (From what I can tell, this just requires me to get one, test it, replace the pulley on it with the pathfinder pulley, and then bolt it on... What year of Maximas should I look at? I'm going for the 90amp) Yep. Search, the correct or desired years are discussed here. 4. Gates belts on power steering, AC, and alt. (no problem!) See #2 5. Replace rear weatherstripping (not an issue) Tell me that when you are done. 6. Fix Door handle (I need to pop the panel off and fix the interior driver side handle, as I have to pull multiple times for it to open.. I may not fix it due to other reasons listed below). (reads below) 7. Clean headlight housing lenses (Is it as easy as just popping the clips and wiping down the lenses?) I don''t think so. 8. Aim Headlights (did a forum post on it weeks ago so I shouldn't have many issues). See #2 9. Rotate tires (Goodyear does that for free!) 4 tire or 5 tire? 10. Repair reverse lights (this is the biggest issue... There are no bulbs/sockets in place of where the reverse lights are. I don't see the sockets or wiring anywhere in fender area.. Do I need to run wiring to sockets, etc? Biggest issue that I may not be able to do alone). Your tail light doesn't have a socket for reverse bulb? 11. Console switch (changing from the WD21 to R50 console, shouldn't be too labor intensive). There is a write up, it isn't exactly plug and play. 12. Trans Fluid overfill (I'm replacing the current fluid with Redline MT-90. Going to fill from the top by the shifter... may need help and guidance with this) There is a write up, it isn't hard. Do you have the FSM yet? 13. Paint rear bumper (easy) Enjoy. 14. Pressure wash engine bay (never have done it, is it okay to do so?) Does it need it? 15. Clean cargo pad See #13 16. Find matching color driver door and fender at JY and install on vehicle (never have done it before, what kind of tools should I need?) Reference FSM for fender removal, and door as well. There are threads on changing door bushings here that might help. Caution, the doors are heavy... B

Not necessarly bolt on, but they could be with some brackets and drilling... Rugged Rocks carries some decent sliders for a good price, but they are actually for a Toyota IIRC. I believe these are it, but double check with Steevo as well! https://ruggedrocksoffroad.com/6734-rock-sliders-by-trail-gear-p-6719.html?osCsid=70bqqephtvkrs3sqbbjr9tvmv7 Get the gusset kit as well for easier mounting. I have a set in my shed that I need to install once I get some other things taken care of. I was considering making connector inserts and using shoulder bolts, but I haven't proven that out yet. B