Precise1

Get another one! I took it out and washed it, prelude to waxing it and installing the Xterra rack. After years of neglect, it needs a good buffing or something...

That was my thought also, especially given the toaster type wind resistance. I know how a VG33 R50 runs at 2600 @70mph fairly well but given a grade or more wind resistance and more than a 1000rpm less, it would bog like it was on tar paper. The dyno sheets don't show RPM? What, 40/50 hp/tq@ 1000 rpm? I'm not getting this either... B

I just dislike running tubing into the cabin. Or at least in significant trouble. I can stomach running out of volts a whole lot easier than running out of oil pressure. I don't understand why they got rid of these gauges. Maybe most people don't get it or care, but enough do to factory install them. My old D720 had them... B

Looks like they are taking care of their mistake. B

This was the response I got this morning about the Autometer Z-series #2634 oil pressure gauge. That's not too bad, actually. If the gauge reads 20PSI, it is between actually 19-21PSI; plenty good enough for me! I have no faith in idiot lights. Old skool I guess. B

*snort* Any of these sound familiar? http://www.yelp.com/biz/jaws-gear-and-axle-sacramento http://www.rearendshop.com/ Those were the only ones that came up with that slogan, but fortunately there aren't many dedicated rear end shops around, even in Sac, to this shouldn't be hard to chase down. What year did you get it done. Any other helpful info? North Sac, West Sac, etc? I went to Sac State, so I know the area well. B

Well, if it is set up right and trued/indicated in and you watched, I'd say that's not the issue. It was the amount that needed removing (.07" ), but you explained that. Yeah, and I've seen worse than that. Those stop signs, and then up and over when all you can see is the hood take some... practice. The real fun is if you have to pile on the brakes on the way down! Honestly, I think there is more going on there than just the flywheel, there is a huge difference between her her truck and yours... Thanks for that picture, I'm saving it. It looks like the one on the left has some balance holes? I don't see any on the right. Any evidence of balancing? B

What shop is that in Grass Valley? B

Page MA-6 of my 1995 FSM shows the recommended maintenence schedule and the auto tranny has an I every 15,000 miles. I is defined as "Inspect. Correct or replace if necessary." Page MA_21 says "Check fluid for contamination. If fluid is very dark, smells burnt or contains friction materials, check operation of A/T. The next section is on how to change the fluid, the last step of which is #5) Check...If the fluid is still dirty, repeat steps 2-5. I guess they never say to change the fluid per an interval due to variable conditions, but they do say to check it every 15,000k and change it when appropriate and make sure to get all the dirty fluid out. That doesn't sound like ignoring it to me. Honestly, maybe they never even considered that someone would think that ATF doesn't need to be checked/changed. B

Good point. I just emailed the good people over at Autometer and asked what the accuracy is, so that'll be somewhere to start. B

3k dino/synth blend on the WD21. 5K Mobil 1 on the R50 and Matrix. No vehicles see frequent long trips or more than 6k miles a year. B

I think this is true of any vehicle, only a matter of how quickly. Who would ever consider that the ATF doesn't need changing? Isn't it listed at 30k or 60kintervals in the FSM? Exactly Tranny flushes every oil change is excessive, even under severe conditions. I'm sure it helped, but he probably would have gotten similar results 1/4 as often... B

I agree with only wanting to run wires, although with the boost/vacuum gauge I have no choice. At least it wouldn't make a mess if it leaks. I own all of the gauges you listed now, but if you want another one, here is a slick place to mount a gauge in a 1994-1995. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/24503-auto-tranny-temperature-gauge/?hl=%2Btranny+%2Bfilter Read the whole thing to note that I had to shift the placement down 1/4-1/2 inch for clearance when mounted. These gauges look closest to stock (modern dash) and are a decent value IMHO. B

You can put insulation/sound deadening material in the doors, in the floor (especially around the wheel wells) and in the roof. B

You get to calibrate it prior to install. It is also a vacuum gauge, so it will function the same as yours, but have the benefit of saying BOOST on it to confuse people. Exactly. I almost put in an amp meter since I have a winch (to install) a 1000 watt inverter (to finish installing) and hopefully a second battery as well. If I find I need one, then I'lll find a spot or replace the vacuum depending. B

Could be your power or ground cable contacts at the battery, starter, frame and chassis as well. Yes, there are a few threads on taking it out. Mosp people agree that the best way is to pull it straight out the frontclocking it to get it by some lines and wires. I think there is a thread in the Garage/How To section, otherwise a brief search will bring them up. B

All three gauges are Autometer Z-Series, the oil pressure gauge is electric with a sender unit, part number ATM-2634. Summit Racing, $67. B

A little update, it looks like trying to go off of the stock mounting points is pointless. Even with some threaded clips, things just don't line up as you can see. The bottom is a hook and hard to get to and the top is just an inch or so away from where they pre drilled. I'll be using some sheet metal screws and lengths of hose or tubing as a stand off, just trim to length needed. I plan to use the 2 pre-drilled hole locations and put the third one right where my thumb is. This will firmly support it and close up most of the gap. This is what mine will look like Haha!! I got my BOOST gauge! I'm just interested in the vacuum portion and what that will tell me, and try to keep it between 10-20 IN/HG to play with mileage. Still, I have a pillar pod gauge in my pathy that says "BOOST". This f-n cracks me up! I don't like the visual obstruction, but it isn't extreme AFAIC. I tend to move around while I'm looking so it negates most of the dead spot. Once the snorkel is in place, it'll be a moot point... So far so good, but let's see what fun routing and splicing in will be. B

You would need CAD/FA software or an engineer who knew his math and formulas, but yes, of course it can. B

Because I am trying to install a factory and aftermarket unit at the same time, but I believe I have come up with other solutions instead. Here is a nice rambling monologue http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/34817-do-you-need-an-oil-pressure-sender-switch-t-or-adaptor/ I did find taps of moderate quality for about $15-20. B

This might work well for some people, but the clocking of the side hole when it is tight could be a problem. Top left of the second page... http://97.74.32.155/files/gauge.pdf B

Ok, this is what I have come up with so far for off the shelf set up to run the factory oil pressure switch and a sensor for an aftermarket gauge simultaneously... This in the block for $7. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/EDE0/265220/N2033.oap?ck=Search_N2033_-1_3532&pt=N2033&ppt=C0248 A 1" or 2" 1/8 NPT threaded pipe for $1. http://www.mcmaster.com/#steel-pipe-fittings/=l5vyv6 A 1/8-27 NPT cross for $9. http://www.mcmaster.com/#steel-pipe-fittings/=l5w0og A 1/8-27 NPT plug for $1. http://www.mcmaster.com/#steel-pipe-fittings/=l5w2n9 And I'm having a hard time finding a male 1/8-27 NPT/female 1/8-28 BSPT so far. Found it. 1/2 way down the document, in the top center. #50NT-02-02 1/8-27 1/8-28 http://www.nudraulix.com/PDF/Adapters%20in%20BSP%20,%20DIN,%20JIS,%20Komatsu,%20Kobelco%20and%20Chinese%20Metric/BSPP,%20BSPPOR%20and%20BSPT/BSPT%20Catalog.pdf http://www.nudraulix.com/ Anyone interested? Pricing might be cheaper with 10 or more. Let me know and I'll call. With those pieces and maybe a 1/8-27 NPT male to female 45* or 90* elbow, anyone should be able to clear their exhaust and filter and still have both gauges. $20 so far with one piece to be found and priced. Not too Bad... B

Yeah, that's steep for a chunk of stainless hex stock with some threads and taped holes... I just looked and its pretty tight in there. Depending on what exhaust you run, some designs could be problematic. I have an idea about a flexible Y line so I'll look that up now. B

You can have it undercoated. There are several types, but I'm not familiar with them. The other option is to wash everything down well after, make sure you get inside the frame and up underneath everything. Don't go into the water unless you have to? B

Unfortunate, unnecessary and fortunate. At least he didn't crash into anything because of it and make it worse. That is cosmetic so as long as a good repair is made and the paint matches, it will be fine. Still, that would be very annoying to see! Cut him some slack and you should have a grateful mechanic for years. B