Precise1

Turn up the T-bars to make the front .5-1" lower than the rear, measured at the body crease. Sneak up on it, drive it in between to let it settle and when you have it evenly set, have it aligned. 31" tires should fit fine. B

Ok, here is some basic fitment and my impression. The one I tried seemed to fit fairly well, the only issues that there is a gap on the backside... What I don't like is their fastener method. They supply a few screws, which I assume are to be used once you drill holes in the A pillar? The piece isn't thickened or supported at these points, but they have already drilled and countersunk for you. I'm going to see if I can find some clips that can fit in the stock mounting slots that have threads. Anyone have any leads on automotive fasteners like that? Here is a picture of how the stock unit mounts, for those of you who haven't done this before. There are 3 spring clips that go into slots in the A pillar and at the bottom there is a hook or catch that is in a slot also. Take a plastic scraper or something, slide it under the trim near the top from the outside, feel up until you locate the top clip and pop it loose (moderate force). Work down x2, then tilt the piece inward and lift up to clear the hook. That's the easy part... I'm going to wait until I have everything mounted before I form a hard opinion, but so far it seems to fit reasonably well, seems fairly flimsy compared to stock (mounting it might negate that) and the mounting method is downright poor as far as I'm concerned. 3 out of 5 stars? (I've not bought these before so I don't have comparative experience) B

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Exactly as said. Not an issue if it isn't rusted in place, but that can be the case in salt country. Do they salt the roads there? To deal with the cable, tie a string to the connector end and remove it (I believe it is clipped in a few places). Use the string to assist in installing the new wire and connector. B

Failure mode means what part of the system has failed, or what off of the list that could be a culprit. In your example, there are only a few ways an injector can leak. Ok, did you pull the plugs? Did you identify the cylinder? B

USPS in their 3' triangle box. It was beat to crap and 1 end 1/2 torn open, but no damage that I can see on the pillar pod its self. B

So, what the hell is in that box leaning by my front door? Holy crap, they have arrived!! Everything looks good so far with no obvious problems or flaws, but I haven't tried fitting it yet. Hopefully tomorrow I can see how it fits. Ok, time to order some gauges! B

There should be 2 sensors at the engine where the top hose attaches, you should check to see if they are working correctly. Go to the Garage section and at the top, download a copy of the FSM, the test procedures are in there. If blocking the radiator helped, then I suspect that the cooling system is working as well as it usually does. If the fan clutch is not working right and disengaging, this could be part of the problem as well. B

A triangular file... B

Ok, thanks, good to know, ithat tells me it's worth it. Ideally, I would like to swap in a VG33 but the stock motor only has 110k on it so it's hard to pull it for no reason. I'd run my headers and custom exhaust also, perhaps swap in VG30 cams, but everything stock other than that. Yes, you are right, I'm not sure why I got that backwards. The smaller the number, the hotter the plug. Thanks for the correction. B

Interesting! Thanks, I learned something today. X2 with using Ispropyl Alcohol, Q-tip and care. B

I don't know that the TBI has a MAF? I don't own one, but I can't imagine where it would be. Inside the air cleaner intake? That doesn't make sense... B

Unfortunately, yes. I edited that for you. Yes this is true for now. Let a Staff member know. Either post like you did above what is to be added, replaced, deleted, etc, or send a PM with all the info. We had to do this to reduce abuse, friction, and accuracy. Few bad apples, blah, blah blah... B

Agreed, my first Pathy ran for a couple of weeks without a center contact in the dizzy cap, It just arced from the spring to where it was needed. THAT is a strong ignition! Sweet! I didn't think it would make a that much of a difference, but then you went down one notch in heat and opened up the gap for a longer spark. I'd guess you weren't getting complete combustion, especially in the low compression VG. Just out of curiosity, do you run manifolds or headers? If the power of a WD21 is a 10 what number would you rate the VG33 at? You are welcome, glad I could help. B

Ok, I decided to simply make an adapter plate for my existing CB mount that allows me to mount the inverter there. It went as planned and is an almost perfect spot as far as I'm concerned. It is totally accessable but still out of the way and fits the available space well while getting air circulation also. The top of the face is basically flush with the top of the center console when the lid is open. The only thing I don't like is the Delrin plate I used is white, not gray to match the interior but it was free so I'm dealing with it. So far I'm in the project $100 for the inverter and $10 for stainless hardware. It isn't wired yet, but now that I have the location, I can measure and order what I need. I'm still considering installing a second battery, but that might have to wait until priorities catch up with it... Thanks for all the input guys! B

I'd run NGK plugs for the 3.3, V power or the platinum, and gap them for the 3.3 also. That is the motor you are running after all... The coil shouldn't make any difference and the only thing the ECU might do is advance or retard the timing as it sees fit. The important factors are that you have the right length, heat range and gap for a VG33. B

Don't feel bad about it, you have done a lot of checking and testing to determine what the issue is so the mechanic shouldn't have much trouble taking it from there. As a fellow Californian, I know what it is like to deal with smog requirements and the timing of it all. Let us know that the find/fix is, please, and good luck. B

There was an initial group buy so the mold was made and a run was done. After that, anyone is supposed to be able to buy them at any time. I suspect they will do small runs and keep unfinished inventory stored, if they do as they claim. The have so far done so, albiet slowly so this should be an available product. Great job Adam, and those who donates examples/ideas/knowledge! It may not seem like a huge win, but not only are we maintaining the relevancy of the Pathfinders (think Thorley headers group buy), we are actually expanding the aftermarket as well. Once again, thank you Adam for shouldering this project and seeing it through. You've kept it going and us informed through, I don't think it would have happened without you. Hopefully some good karma will flow your way. Now, when do they ship? B

Mine are unpainted, tell them to ship them... B

Covering the hinges and popping off... B

Ok, it sounds like you are on it. B

FYI, the ERG tube its self can be clogged, especially if the vehicle has ever run rich... B

I'm sorry, I can not find the upper hose. I must not have deemed it salvagable; the only one I have is the one that is mounted and filled with antifreeze. Gates claims the ID is 1.25" as well. As long as the adapter flange OD is the same or slightly larger, it will work. http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/mmp/nissan~pathfinder~radiator_hose~parts.html B

At least it is still in the family. Hopefully you won't have to be the mechanic or everything that goes wrong with it is your fault... B

Yes, lift may vary but most seem to like OME suspension products. Down side, pretty pricy... A coil spring is the same as a lever, the shorter you make it, the stiffer it will be. You'd be better off going with a same diameter (or slightly larger) coil in a longer spring than what is in currently, install them to see what you get and go from there. Remember, they will settle/seat in a bit over a few months also. B