Precise1

No, actually I place them on my shrine, build a bonfire, strip naked, put on a goat's head, chant and dance until I have a vision. Wisearse! B

This is usually the symptom of burning antifreeze, from a blown head gasket or a cracked head. Normally, I'd say no, this won't happen if the car has been sitting, but since you mention it's been below freezing, maybe that could have something to do with it. When you say it ran for 15 minutes, did the temp gauge get up to it's normal running position? Any oil sheen in the antifreeze? How does the engine oil look on the dip stick? On the bottom of the filler cap? Is the antifreeze mix sufficient to protect to the temperature you have experienced? B

I'll stand by their name: Lo-Tek These guys are arse draggers, that much is certain. I've made parts for the space shuttles in less time. No reflection on you Dowser, thanks for the update! B

Career machinist here so I know exactly what you are saying, I was just trying to make it accessable to everyone. The bottle jack under the frame bit would be good to start but I don't know if the 2 tons max would compress it sufficiently. You did a clean job of it, no doubt of that! B

I plan on fabbing one up in the next week or two, thanks for the idea. I have a buddy with a machine shop that I'm going to mind while he's out of the country for a bit so a press is available, but if it is only 1/16" sidewall 1" galvanized conduit, a 3lb hand sledge and an anvil would make quick work of it as well, maybe even a large bench vice. No need to pay for a press for this project. B

the first number is the tread width, the second is the sidewall height by percentage of the tread width. Your old tires have a theoretical sidewall of 171.5, the new ones will be 183.75 for a difference of 12.25mm. 12.7mm is 1/2" so .482" taller side wall. Now, that is just in theory because different tires and manufacturers make tires in slightly different sizes from what is stated, not to mention your old tires are worn down so theoretically you should get some lift/slightly larger tires, but in reality they could be almost the same size to 1" larger radially. Don't worry yet, search the web (manufacturers sites) to see what the actual tire sizes are and go from that. Calculators are helpful, but it is far better to know the what and why's. B

Honestly, ask the inverter people. They have some magic in there because the receptacles in the front have the ground prong. B

Thanks, but it is still pretty rough. Yeah, there are a lot of sources in SoCal; CIP1, JBugs, etc. I can't recall the name of the drop strut parts I bought, but all top of the line stuff. I almost bought a 75 a few years back to get around the smog laws (I know how to make them run clean) but I still want to 'finish' this one and I am in NO MORE PROJECTS mode until I finish what I have. I recall seeing the triple Blacks and triple Whites going for 18-23k depending on condition and factory parts. Of course it varies by location and economy, but they also increase the older they get. Check out TheSamba.com to get an idea. Even in far less than show car condition I've had people walk up to me at gas stations or stores and just say "how much?' and be serious. There is still a lot of love for the air cooled. B

I don't think so. As Trogdor said, 93 was the year they switched from square to round tooth, many people only knew when they pulled a cover and looked. This is nothing new. Sorry, I think the theory doesn't fly. No harm in asking though. Ok, that makes a bit more sense then, but I'm still wondering about this Master Tech's statements though. I'm not sure I trust him... Don't give up now, these are really minor issues and you are trying to tackle them all at once without a good understanding. That is part of what is confusing things. Not knocking you, just putting things into perspective. Agreed, nothing that I can see looks out of place or cobbled together. I'm thinking you just have a early 93 VG30E, nothing weird about it. Didn't we talk about the belt possibilities before? B

I'm not sure how he could tell unless he ran the motor number (do the Pathy motors even have numbers)? If this is true, it's not the original motor, but one out of a 1989 or earlier and retrofitted with the 90 and later systems. No big deal really. What parts needed to be returned due to the motor year? Something isn't making sense yet. Are you sure you needed the neutral switch, meaning it was tested and failed? How about the sensor? I'm not knocking the Master Tech, but it seems a bit off the hip. Just trying to help you... B

Ahah!! I'm willing to bet... B

Damn!! Why was it down, making more room for the wagon wheels? Nice choice in tires... B

Ok, that got me thinking again. Good link! Not a bad idea, but more than I plan to do. I just want a regular 3 plug extension cord end just inside the grill so it can't be seen or accessed without popping the hood. 1/2 of the reason for this is that it would be fairly waterproof if it is tucked away and covered. I'll look at under the dash on the drivers side, but IIRC there isn't enough empty space for it and still have it be accessible while driving. I will look again though. Good call on the switch plate, that goes hand in hand with fleurys link. I checked, and they said the same thing about connecting to the battery. The back of the rear seats doesn't appeal to me though as they get laid down fairly often for cargo. It does have a remote option, but what I'm finding is that the WD21 just doesn't have a lot of unused space under and behind things. They tucked things away quite well to maintain decent cabin room in a small SUV. Like I said, I like that idea other than the under the hood part. It gets up to 40* C here at times and the under hood temps are much higher. That would probably cause problems for the inverter to keep cool. Still, today will be round two of trying to find a stash spot but with the face plate relocated. Thanks everyone! B

Could be, but yes, there are two items under the seat with ducting running between them. The ducting would have to be removed and one of those modules relocated and even then it would be a tight fit. While it would be nice to have it hidden, it doesn't seem readily feasible and certainly wouldn't shorten the cable run so I don't see it as a win. Thanks for the input all, it did help me get the location worked out, and I promise I won't ask what the hell to do with the CB now. Wiring is another story though. Of course I'm going to fuse the inverter and when I set up the 2 batteries (one 75 AH, one 35 AH), I'm actually thinking of using the smaller 35 AH as the primary vehicle battery with an isolator on the positive to the second 75AH battery so I can use both for charging/starting/winching/power if I need to. Then I can also isolate the larger battery to run down with the inverter as the inverter will shut off at 10.3-10.8 volts which might not start the vehicle, and still start the vehicle with the smaller battery. Does this make sense or am I missing something? Also, if I have a good ground from the chassis to the frame and engine, is there a reason not to use one of the front seat belt bolts as the ground for the inverter? That would save a bit of cabling and only have me run a positive cable from the battery to the inverter (on the back of the console) and an extension cord back out to behind the grill. B

Good point, although I do like the ducting to the rear, I think it's a good feature. Still there is a module or two under the drivers seat as well, alarm and something else? *goes to look* B

If you need a new alternator, be advised that a Maxima alternator mounts up perfectly and is 70 amps compared to the Pathy's 55 amp alternator and IIRC, a fair amount cheaper. It's a standard 'upgrade' that people do. There is a thread or two on it. If you can't find it, I'll look it up to get the proper year range. Also, as Trogdor said, the FSM is the Factory Service Manual which is generally far superior to the aftermarket manuals. A link for where do download your free copy is pinned in the Garage section. The earliest year is 1994, but it applies to 90-95% of your vehicle, basically all the important stuff. What won't match is dash info, trim, bumpers and a few other details. B Oh, glad you got home. Sorry you had issues on your maiden voyage, but obviously there are a few bugs to work out. Other than making you paranoid, how did you like it so far?

I've had the bearings seize on the freeway with dual belts. It sounded like someone was slaughtering a pig under the hood... I have to ask, did you stop and make sure you weren't in 4x4? The lever was in the proper position? The hubs were unlocked? If so, this is pretty odd... B

Ok, it is too big to fit in the center console by at lease an inch each direction and no way will it fit inder the seat with the ducting and ECU down there. So far, other than the back area, these are the only two places I can come up with other than removing the CB, putting it there and getting a smaller CB unit to mount along side the console on the passenger side. This placement limits the seat going all the way forward by 2-3" And this one clutters up the foot well. The more I think about it, the more likely it's going on the back of the console. I already have a sub plate for mounting, and it will be accessable by everyone in the vehicle, even when the seats are folded and a bed is set up in the back. Any one want to buy a large but decent Uniden Pro538W? http://www.rightchannelradios.com/uniden-bearcat-pro-538w-cb-radio.html Damn, apparently this is 'normal sized'. This is not going to be easy then... B

That might work also, I'll have to check clearances though. Me thinks it would be pretty tight... Damn, that's quite the set up, you freakin fanatic! B Oh, this would be what the second battery would probably be. I already have a Optima Yellowtop with 75 AH (new) so that would give me over 100 AH between 2 AGM gel batteries. http://www.batterymart.com/p-12v-35ah-sealed-lead-acid-battery-group-u1.html?utm_source=GoogleBase&utm_medium=CPC&gclid=CPLjrvH9jbQCFWGnPAoduHcAhQ

Absolutely, we're getting too old for this manual labor stuff anyway! And yes, a chainsaw would be an item I pan to run. Other uses are general camping conveniences, recharging computers, power tools and batteries and in emergency situations for powering my mini fridge and deep freeze in the garage (independently and only a few hours a day). I'd prefer not mounting it in the back due to using valuable cargo space and accessability/wiring issues. My plan would be to run an extension cord back under the hood so it would be hidden and waterproofed and still be accessable through the grill. Great idea, but unfortunately I've already used that space for my also excessively large CB. It's aprox 4"x7"x9". I'll see if it will fit when Poop gets off of my lap. My only concern there is ventilation, drilling holes isn't an issue... B

Sorry, that wasn't clear. If your idiot lights all light up, it means the charging system isn't. I can't remember which ones and haven't experienced it though... Yes, the wires into the MC are usually rather pathetic, but they could be the cause of the lights if they are shorting or kinked/broken (and then disturbed by rough road). I don't know why the ABS plug would be disconnected other than some people disable the ABS. It's pretty useless in my book and according to Alkorahil (the Texas dealership parts guy) it only really works when heavily loaded or towing anyway. The ABS module on the rear passenger frame rail has a bleed nipple on it and can be a pain in the butt to keep happy, ie the ABS light will go on and take some bleeding and fussing to get to go off. Try removing the ABS fuse and see if the lights go out. As I said, I don't think you actually have a problem, just a light show... B

Isn't ABS, brake and something else illuminated a charging flag? Make sure the charging system is working, check the wires to the MC and if everything is working right, I wouldn't worry about it right away. B

I know what those look like, and that's worth mint in the condition you say! I like the 67 as well! My 78 has the stock motor; I'm stuck in Cali, I bought it knowing I had to smog it once and then it would be exempt, then they announced the exempt rollback was frozen at 1975. DAMN! It does have a lowered front, ghia disk brakes, centerline rims and some other goodies. I still need to pull the motor to fix the fuel system, install a carpet kit and re-upholster the seats. Some day... B

The difference is listed in the FSM, I can't recall it right now. I do recall that the overall compression wasn't the concern, mainly the deviation between cylinders and the recommended 'allowable' amount wasn't much. If you haven't downloaded the FSM, go to the Garage section, a link will be posted in the thread pinned at the top of the section. B

I ran across what seems to be a decent deal at autozone for a 1000 watt power inverter (2000 surge) for $99; sale ends Tuesday. I get $20 back on my autozone card so less than $90 out the door with 2 3' cables included. It's got most the bells and whistles like remote capable, digital draw/charge meter, USP port and thermal fan. It seems to be the older 1000 watt model by a company called Voltec, a division of Tasco? http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Duralast-1000-Watts-digital-inverter/_/N-4blw?itemIdentifier=973845_0_0_ http://www.donrowe.com/inverters/voltec_1000.html Ok, the sales pitch is over and my concern now is where to mount it. It is a bit large at 4"x7"x9" and wants a flat mounting surface and some airflow. I want to mount it in the vehicle, preferably up front also but to do this the provided cables are far too short. I'm considering installing a second battery (smaller AGM) under the hood where I currently have my oil filter relocated to which would get power closer, but I think I'll need to get longer cables regardless. Thanks for the patience, my questions are what type/size and wattage do you have, where did you mount it and how did you wire it. Any links to wiring requirements are helpful (but I can google too) and feel free to review yours, describe your usage, etc. Thanks in advance guys! B