Precise1

Ok, back to supposition. Your shakey surmising is far less supported than what I have offered as evidence. Again what do you base your belief on other than guesswork? That transmissions fail eventually? Really? Please... I'm not trying to convince you, believe what ever you wish. I'm just trying to keep you from misleading others. B

There it is! No, it shouldnt other than gearing and steering stops... B

A torch might clean it better if you don't go overboard... B

Fair enough Bud, I have the same addiction. Technically 5 cars and 2 motorcycles for the wife and I (yeah, right, 5 for me!) so I can't and won't cast stones. Now this you had better post pictures of or I will find you and... take pictures! I have a 1978 convert in the garage awaiting (additional) love... B

Hey Bud, AFAIK the CLs are still available, but there might be a wait. Honestly, I went with a 4x4 parts unit for the idler arm brace, it was the cheapest and should be good enough, far better than nothing. The only thing I did was cut some useles stock off, I can post a pict if you are curious. Other than that, I think home made and Calmini are the only options? I have a Calcrapy laying around somewhere you can have if you want, but it wouldn't mount so that's not doing you any favors. Sorry, don't know if GrandpaX is making them, but he should. I believe he has a thread in the Vendor section and is on E-Bay as well. B

Sorry to hear, but I understand. Choices have to be made and nothing lasts forever. No odds of it sticking around as a second vehicle for when the next hurricane hits or the Fronty breaks down on you, eh? Sorry... Tell you BIL to buy it and sign up! I'm glad you got some use out of the forum, that's what makes it worth the effort. I'm glad you made it through Sandy ok (what a mess!) and good luck with the Fronty. B

Prove it out first, eh? B

Adjust your stering stops. It'll affect your turning radius somewhat, but at least you can crank the wheel and not rub. I'm wondering if your T-bars haven't sagged a bit though as that is a stock tire size for a Pathfinder, and the rim shoul be close enough. B

That might work. I have 31x10.5 on 15x8" rims with 4" back spacing and a 2+2" lift and have plenty of room every direction. B

So you are basing your statements on your experience with 2 pathfinders and a can of carb cleaner? Just a year ago you are talking about how coolers clog yourself. Which is it, man? http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/31556-catastrophic-at-failure/#entry595965 Then there is the small fact of Nissan's TSB on the need to flush the cooler to get rid of contaminants and... blockage and/or restricted flow! http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/pathfinder/TSB/NTB00-056b%20-%201988%20AND%20LATER%20NISSAN%20VEHICLES%20AUTOMATIC%20TRANSMISSION%20OIL%20COOLER%20CLEANING.pdf Nissan wouldn't issue a TSB unless this was a proven issue, and quite frankly, I suspect they know far more than you do. I'll stand by my statement that the coolers are prone to clogging (be it partially or completely) and insist you do not post blatant misinformation. B

Did you want to turn and flex? What is the overall width of the rim? Many people who run that size have 10" wide rims with more backspacing than that, so you might run into problems or have to massage some sheet metal. Do you still have your fender flares mounted? Any chance of test fitting them? B

Is it blowing properly? Does your temp control slide work properly or affect the output temp at all? B

Again, this is why an inline filter is a very good idea! B

There are countless Japanese vehicles that have over 200 and 250k miles, and still run fine. I'll disregard your statement until you can back it with facts, not supposition. Now, lets get back on track with the thread... B

Stock aluminum rims for all WD21 years, 1986.5-1995. B

Here is some info... And here (they do have others too)... http://www.boltdepot.com/Metric_hex_bolts_Zinc_plated_class_8.8_steel_14mm_x_1.5mm.aspx B

Really? That's why time and time again people have found their cooler blocked? That's not why shops often replace the radiator (or bypass it) when they rebuild/replace the auto tranny? That's not why a dealership mechanic flushes the tranny cooler as a procedure or why Nissan has a product specifically to do this? http://www.nissanpat...ng/#entry597223 Remember, build up from the fluid heat exchange can reduce the diameter and cooling efficiency and create areas where sediment can adhere as well. Opinions are fine until they fly directly against years of data and misdirect people; don't be a Tungsten, dude... B

Ok, that's good to know. I personally fill up at 1/4 tank unless I'm on a highway road trip but even filling up when the gauge is on E, I have never put in more than 17 gallons or so. The 3mm below E explains that now. I see no point in letting it get that low unless it is an emergency regardless. I just filled up the R50 with 14 gallons/$50 of fuel. B

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Nah, just fill it up at 1/4 tank and keep 5 gallons on the back... B

Ok, cool. It'll probably make it just fine, but why push it and worry, much less if something happens and you knew better. Your call, but I tend to play it safe. I didn't think that was a problem down in the Lone Star. B

Sorry, I wasn't trying to imply you weren't, and yes, that is what I wanted to confirm, that they removed the intake and properly tested them (I've run into lazy mechanics before). Yep, I know you are in Texas, but not that close. That's a major bonus as Rob is a great guy and 100% knowledgeable. Hell, I live in NorCal and I get my factory parts from Texas... Good thinking on the ECU part, it's simple to replace, but at least you can do your own verification. One thing that has been done is people 'loaning' good ECU's to test with... B

Yes, always start with checking the codes. I'm curious how they checked the injectors, expecially #'s 2,4 and 6. I find any trip to the mechanic costs a lot, the real benefit of this site is DIY to avoid that. That said, there is every level of mechanic or motivation here so it's all good. A few people have had to swap out their ECUs so it isn't unheard of, just not terribly common either. No harm in sourcing a used one from a reliable seller though, what transmission do you have (makes a difference). Also any time you are looking for factory Nissan parts, check out www.factorynissanparts.com, Rob (Alkorahil) runs that from a Texas dealership and has the best prices around. B

No worries, we've all done it. That's the problem of missing something, you generally keep on missing... Why didn't you say that then! I measured 44+mm for the OD of the clamp on the radiator, 45+mm for the OD of the clamp on the motor and about 43mm for the hose inbetween. Aprox 3.5+mm for compressed wall thickness puts you at right around 36mm ID. By extrapolation, I deduce you are correct, my dear Watson! B

The wheel cylinder is a standard replacable item, cheap and usually held in with a bolt or two. B