Precise1

Can't you just unscrew the fittings on either end to remove the tube and then clean it out. I know they can be a PITA to get threaded back on correctly, but I don't understand the "VERY RISKY" part. What am I missing? B

Yeah, good luck with the diagnosis, hopefully it's something relatively simple that we are all missing. I did say that you have exotic failures... B

Damn, maybe trogdor is right about the head gasket. It doesn't make sense otherwise, the system is pretty simple. Is there any discoloration of the coolant? How much do you have to add? Is it the same amount as in the overflow tank? The fact that the heater works then stops tells me you have flow, it's the low level that causes it to stop. As for the fan clutch, when mounted, my rule of thumb is to spin it as hard as possible and let it freewheel. it should spin 1/8-1/2 turn before it stops. Not very scientific, but it's always worked for me in the past. B

Agreed, but that's assuming it is stuck shut. If it isn't opening much or only at higher heat, you could easily get the condition you have now. Yes, it is on the block and lower hose. I think the flow is in the top and out the bottom through the thermostat; I base this on the direction of flow and orientation of the thermostat. Someone confirm though, I'm deducing... B

Which one? I bought my first one (1995 XE M/T with 108k) and scrapped it over 2 years ago with 135k on it. Bought my second over 3 years ago (1995 XE A/T with 96k) and its in the garage with 107k on it. Bought the 3rd one not quite 3 years ago (1999.0 R50 A/T with 150k) and its in the driveway with 170k on it. Great vehicles! As long as you keep it from rusting away, there is no reason you shouldn't have it at least that long. As above, our R50 has 170k miles (274k km) and runs flawlessly. FYI the record here IIRC is a doctor in the San Francisco South Bay who used it as a commuter and put over 500k miles (806k km) on it, 1990 or 91 I think. B

Good Luck! B

Maybe both. It does sound like a faulty thermostat, and the radiator cap explains the reservoir filling up unless it is fine and the extra heat/pressure from the faulty thermostat is just blowing past the cap. I'm assuming the inside of the radiator looks relatively clean with little to no scale? B

Howdy Mr P! Pan hard drops have been around for at least 6 years so if you came around more, you'd know all about them. As for GrandpaX, the search function works wonders... Ok, fine, you lazy Pickle! http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/33308-panhard-drop-bracket/ B

You are welcome, but I know it was just a teaser. Still, I look around periodically, you never know what you may find. I have guns... B

Two... http://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/cto/3402212049.html B

It is still a good motor, the only thing I can recall is a power valve screw on the intake butterfly valve needs to be loctited and that the coil packs (1 per cylinder) were prone to failing but I believe that it isn't all of than and that the replacement part is better. I'm not an expert since I don't own one so go to the R50 2001-2004 section and read up. I'm going through the local listings and I found one for you, Mr Rock. http://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/cto/3429398075.html B

2001 is the first year of the VQ35 motor, rates at about 220hp IIRC. Much more powerful, but essentially the same body and build as all R50s (1996-2004). B

For the WD21 yes, it is easy. I have a spare sitting in my back yard now (but it would be better to source locally). The R50 it is more rare (only 96-97 came with them IIRC) and I don't recall anyone retrfitting one. Personally, I think a WD21 (86.5-95, 93-94 preferably) would serve better as the hunting rig, but from owning an R50 also (1996-2004) I know they could be used also, you just can't lift as much or as easily. B

Pathfinder. They are similar, but I would much rather have the VG30 motor in the Pathy. I believe that in stock form the Pathfinder is better off road (other than the weak front centerlink). Also for a comparable vehicle the toyota will normally cost you about %50 more. B

Yes, but that is for a 3" lift and he only wants 1-2"... B

Well, he might come back with a counter offer if you left him your number. Otherwise, keep looking and something will turn up. I'm pretty sure you'll like the WD21 for your hunting rig, they are pretty stout and capable in stock form or with a little modification. JamesRich in La bought one and set it up for hunting also, IFAIK he really likes it. B

Ok, that makes sense now! It's a TBI only part, the 90-95 MPFI don't have any heated air tube. Thanks for clearing that up. B

I've never heard of that issue. No leaks anywhere, the MC is full (enough) and all you get from the bleeder is air? Have you tried a gravity bleed? I'm not sure it will help but it can't hurt. Top off the MC, put a hose on the bleed nipple and into a container, open the bleed nipple and just let it sit for 15-30 minutes, checking to see if anything is coming out. B An afterthought, when you compressed the pistons back into the caliper, did you have the bleed nipple open? Nipple.

Just trying to help. As for the pan hard bar, with such a minor lift I wouldn't worry about it. It if bugs you to see (that it isn't level) you want to drop the frame side. It's easier, stronger and the factory geometry... B

Also the power cable from the battery to the starter? Are the battery ground contacts good (chassis/motor)? If it can't complete the circuit, not much will happen either. B

Howdy Noob, and welcome to NPORA! A pathy, especially a WD21 (1995 and earlier) would be a good choice for what you are looking for. A 1993 with rebuilt tranny and 170k for $3k might be steep, but I don't know the availability down there. Here is a thread to look at, but beware frame rust, auto trannys that dont work right and timing issues. FYI a 1993 will have either a 60k or a 105k mile timing belt change interval, the 105k is later in the year. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/19042-pathfinder-common-problemsfixes-read-this-first/ B

This doesn't directly answer you, but it may help. Go to the Member's Rides section and look to see who has a lift height you prefer and ask them what they used to achieve it. I'm sure you will have better luck getting the information that way. Throw them in and see what you get. If it is more than you want, cut some off, reinstall and see what you get. Measure the free length, the compressed length and the amount you cut off if it is still too tall. With this info you will be able to calculate how much more to remove. The most detailed information was in a thread by k9sar IIRC where he 'charts' many spring diameters, is that the one you are looking at? I can dig up a spring rate calculator if you like, they are pretty simple; a coil spring is just a coiled linear bar spring. B

Your Ignition. This is assuming the motor cranks but doesn't fire when trying to start with the ignition, and that it fires if you have the key in the ignition 'run' position and you supply voltage to the starter by another method. Is this correct? B

Nope. I think mine came with one also but I'm sure I had no use for it. By the cut out on top it appears to designed to be welded to a pipe OD at 90 degrees, but why I have no idea. You are welcome, and yes, that is exactly right. 1 size fits engine upgrades. B

Yes, they are larger than necessary; that is not an error, nor is it a problem. If anything, it makes mounting and aligning them easier as you have some wiggle room. Speaking of which, when you put them on, just barely snug everything until you have the crossover pipe and EGR tube connected, then snug everything. I had good luck with a lap joint band clamp (Walker brand IIRC) to seal the slip joint of the cross over pipe. Yep, I dug in the garage and found my spare, it is Walker Mega-clamp #33230 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wlk-33230 Lookin' good Bud! B Oh, I merged the three threads just to keep the info together. Since it was a group buy, I'm sure a lot of others will have the same or additional questions.