Precise1

Then walk inside you lethargic phlegm factory. Yeah, this one is going to amount to something... And 2 more doors. Cheaper insurance because they are proven to decrease rear end accidents? Until your buddy in the back bashes his teeth out on his own knee one day. Why do all the 20ishs insist on being stupid? B

Damn, they are out of stock here but they might mount differently. http://www.cheaperthandirt.com/product/ZBQ-1413 Does your cap have threads inside? I suspect you need one that screws on, something like this. http://ezpourspout.com/wp/ B

And you keep using it... B

Personal forum content? There is no such thing... If you mean a one button copy of everything you have ever posted, no there is nothing like that that I am aware of. Perhaps the Admin have tools that could assist, but it doubt it would be quick or easy even then. I suspect your best hope would be to target specific topics of interest or value and start copying. B

I was going to say that the old belt is probably just stretched, but it looks like you got it figured out. Do you recall the belt number? B

Well, it seems like the mechanic was saying "just replace everything" figuring that would solve the problem, and he is probably right but I'd be surprised if all of that was worn out at once. From what I understand, you don't want the Moog idler arm, it is not as good as the stock one, so just order the bushings/seals and rebuild it (cheaper too). Also, a commonly overlooked item is the tension rod (lower control arm back to frame) bushings. Even when they look ok from the outside, they are usually damaged. I highly recommend a second opinion and changing a few thing at a time; the tension rod bushings and whatever has obvious play or damage in it. Download the FSM pinned in the Garage section and look at the exploded view so you can see it all. It's actually not that complicated. There are a couple A arms, a couple anchor points and the rest is just linkage and pivot points hanging in the breeze. What ever you can move is probably worn... B

You talking to me, Sir? B

Video games actually! Melted the heatsink off of my video card and got a trojan through Steam. Been loads of fun... B

Hopefully the two can cross in the mail, not just tag team it? Even if there is a charge and reimburse? Just trying to keep things moving before the snow falls... Keep up the effort Harbie, you are nearing the finish line. B

It's hilarious and it's true!. For $100-$500 you can go from just indexing/cranking the T-bars and putting longer springs in the back to matching shocks to the new travel, replacing upper control arms and changing all the bumpstops. It just depends on your budget, need and intent. For example, the springs I have in the rear of my WD21 came out of a Jeep in a junk yard and have been in 2 other WD21's before thios one, one of them a friends. They are still a perfect blend of height and spring rate. Take a bit to look around and search for the info, this is all very well documented. B

Well, generally the trannys don't just fail, the cooler gets clogged and overheats it. Still, few trannys last forever. Any excessive heat felt? Does it drive well, the same regardless of temp or smell? No you shouldn't smell burning paper but I know when I installed my headers with Permatex Copper and antisieze, the truck smelled for a week+ when it was hot. No problems since with leaks or smell... B

Vacuumed and wiped down the R50 with the wife's help and cleaned/conditioned the front seats. I'll do the rear tomorrow before it gets hot (82 degrees today). B

Any contact/input?? Having spent the last 6 years in a injection molding shop, I know this is pretty straight forward stuff... B

I've had it do that a few times recently (last week or two) but I've had general computer issues with hardware, drivers and malware, so... scan things well and see? B

That's a fair amount of work, but it looks like it needed it equally bad. The only thing I'll scold you on are those tires. That is beyond bald and into dangerous. Bad Dog!! B

This is what I know as a jerry can. Note the metal seam/lip around the bottom? This is what I know as a nato can. No lip/seam on the bottom, has a small filler neck and slightly different dimensions. That seems to be what you have. FYI US Can or whatever in florida (the biggest manufacturer) was recently run out of business by asinine law suits. Capacity is almost identical so it doesn't matter which one you have, but you might have to stick with the same thing in the future. Good work BTW. I have yet to decide if I will mount my jerry can holder (uses the lip on the bottom) or go with a more universal cage type. VS B

*snort* Damn kids!! B

I like that! I have to ask though, is that a NATO can or the Jerry can that was made for years? There are slight dimensional changes that mean one might not fit the other holder... Odds are that it is worth the effort and you'll get years of satisfaction and reliable use out of it. B

There is a chance the lower arm is on a cammed fastener or something like that (I know that's the case on my VW strut front end). Still, "I can't find the adjusting screw" doesn't instill a lot of confidence. B Well, the more you look, the more you learn. This is out of the 1998 R50 FSM... If the alignment is off (and the wheel bearing and rotor runout is acceptable) then you have worn out and/or damaged front suspension components. I suspect worn bushings, but if it was wheeled hard, it may be something bent. Was the vehicle ever in an accident? B You are talking about the steering rack. *goes and sits in corner* B

How many hours of pondering do you think it will take? B

Aren't there a few R50's being parted out right now? Figure out what years are compatable and hit up the Classified section... B

Hell, it hasn't (legally) left the driveway for 6 months! Bingo, no mall crawling in the WD21. Lets put your head inbetween the pedal and my foot to find out. Nope, I don't have the wheelchair lift installed yet... B

Most likely those are broken links from the OP or from the forum move. In a lot of these cases, there is little we can do other than try to retake/replace them. Phone people will chime in as well. B

Not really, but it had just rained so that got the chunks off... B

Agreed with the 'leave OD off around town or when wheeling, although I have heard it should be shut off if you are driving in hilly country. The tranny cooler issue has been deeply discussed, as you can imagine. So I'll give you a brief break down and then give you some homework. The tranny developes particulates that can cause the stock cooler to clog, cutting off flow and overheating/frying the tranny. You want an external aftermarket cooler, preferably a plate type as they are the most efficient for the room you have to mount it. Most people completely bypass the stock cooler, but if you install an inline filter this shouldn't be an issue and you can run a set up that goes from tranny to filter to stock cooler to aftermarket cooler back to tranny. I believe that this set up is the best as it should keep the temperature fairly constant and reduce temp spikes also. This leads us to installing a tranny temp gauge as well. This is what I did... http://www.nissanpat...__+tranny +temp I bought my Pathy with a recently rebuilt tranny also and it's the first automagic I have owned for ower 20 years so I am suitably paranoid myself. D: Here is some light reading, http://www.nissanpat...ch&fromsearch=1 And I'm going to move this to the Garage section to keep things organized. B Oh, there is a 'shift kit' that used to be available but I don't know how effective it was, very few people bother with it...