Precise1

That should work fine in a pinch but I don't like the idea of rope to tie it together, I'd prefer metal. Who knows though, maybe the rope is the strongest part... B

Yes, but... hoses stretch. Hoses should be tight going on, not just slip over the fitting, to the point that I keep water soluable lubricant handy when changing radiators, waterpumps, etc. The clamp is there to assist with the sealing and hold the hose in place; if the hose was too loose, clamping it could cause a wrinkle and/or a bulge just before the clamp. One of the tricks with installing hoses is to soak them in hot water, both to make them expand and become more pliable. If you remove an old hose, the end that went over the fitting will always be permanently bulged larger than the rest of the hose OD. Having the ID of the fitting and the ID of the hose the same makes sense, no neck downs=better flow. I didn't think the amount of oversizing would be 1/16" per side, but that isn't unreasonable, especially since it is diameter related. I'll be home before dark today, so I'll find a used hose to measure, just to triple check and measure the amount of bellmouth at the ends. B

Yes, that sounds right to me. Stated on the previous page a week ago. B

I'm pretty sure there is a thread on them in the Product Review section off of the main forum page, go check it out and/or post your experience there... B

And what size was that? B

Sorry, sometimes you have to remind me; I'm getting old... I did not find the hose, but measuring the top radiator output, the ID is 1.29" (32.77mm) and the OD is 1.375 (34.93mm). The hose on my truck is basically the same diameter on both ends, 46-47mm OD at the end fitting barbs. The sizes you listed, is that hose ID or fitting OD? B

From what I understand, excessive temperatures, excessive carbon build up, ERG issues and cat problems all can contribute to high NO. Like you said, the cat would be the last thing to inspect/replace... B

Pretty much, but you can turn on the ignition and step on the brake/turn the lights on to shed any residual energy quicker. Still, leave it off disconnected for a bit. B

I bought a 1995 Pathy 3 years ago with 96K miles on it and there was no reason to think the T-belt had been changed, so it was a 14 year old belt @ 96k miles. I changed it and it looked fine. Some age cracking in between the teeth, but no damage or evidence of seperation what so ever. I could have run it longer, but I was paranoid about it due to it's age. I suspect your climate is close to mine here in Santa Rosa so that shouldn't be an issue either. I suspect you'd be alright for a while yet, but it's hard to say 'ignore it, no problem'. The issue here is that most of the cost of having the timing belt is labor and replacing the valve cover gaskets isn't work that is in the same area and overlapping so a timing belt change would still be full cost. Also some people like to replace all related items so no additional work should need be done there until the next T-belt replacement. These items would be thermostat, water pump, bypass hose, cam seals and crank seal. This obviously costs more... Have you tried tightening down the valve cover screws? Gaskets shrink and screws loosen, often all it takes is snugging things back down... B

Electronics connection not good due to thermal expansion/contraction? Check the connections on the usual suspects and use di-electric grease where sensible... B

I had no issues when I installed my headers. If it's bogging and surging, that's got to be something else going on. There is a write up in the Garage section on how to read the codes stored in the ECU so start there. B

Check the EGR system for proper functioning. Oh, apparently you know that... EGR valve inspection is EC-194 according to the index, EGRC-BPT valve inspection is EC-196 B

That is hilarious! Happy New Year everyone! I hope it's a good one for all of us! B

Let the person out of the trunk? Oh, wait, it's a Pathy... How do the bushings look on the pan hard rod and the rear links? Hopefully its not the frame, that would be pretty bad... B

If you wanted to plug the holes, why did you use RTV? JB Weld or similar would have been far better, and the best way would be to tap it 1/8-27 or 1/4-27 NPT and use an actual threaded plug. The 20+ year mechanic didn't point that out? B

Check the valve cover gasket screws, particularly in the rear. People have had oil run down the back of the motor and thought it was the RMS before. B

Yes, my bad, you are absolutely right. The bottom hose goes to the metal extension tube behind the belts and up to the thermostat housing. I'm not sure what vehicle I was thinking of... B

Um, ok, just before it? B

I would want the temp to read what is coming out of the motor, which should tell you the highest temp the system is at and the closest to block temp. The top bottom hose goes to the thermostat so that would make the bottom top go to the radiator and where I"d put it. Apparently Nissan thinks otherwise That's where Nissan put their sensors... They put their sensors there in the thermostat metal housing. Maybe you can feed off of that or your sensor is a direct fit? One is for the ECU, the other is for the temp sensor... B

You are welcome. I have a radiator in the yard with hoses on it and I think I have some old spares so I should be able to get you the measurement. What hose would you want it on, the upper or lower one? B

I don't have the answer off hand, but first you need to know what thread and sensor length each one is, then you have to determine where/how to install them. 1. Oil Pressure/Temperature (Engine Oil) This is probably easiest done off of the oil pressure sensor already installed in the block right by the oil filter. You would want to remove it, install a T with the right fittings on the ends and then install both sensors into that. 2. Oil Pressure/Temperature (Transmission Oil) The tranny fluid travels to the radiator and back unless you have modified the system (which is recommended). The flex lines have an ID of 10mm IIRC (verify this), so your best bet would be to install the sensor into a T block with barbed fittings on either end and the sensor 3. Water Temperature/Battery (Coolant / Radiator) This is the only one that could use the adapter that you show. You need to determine what hose you want it on and the ID of that hose. B

Glad you found it quickly and hopefully it is just that one, for now anyway.You are right, it might be a good idea to plan to change the other lines, even if it is only when you are working on something else and have access. B

You are either sarcastic or simple, but I wish you the best of luck! B

On a WD21? I wouldn't count on it... I don't know the evap system code from experience, but I've been surprised what would and wouldn't trigger the CEL light. My experience in general is to check the ecu codes and then trouble shoot regardless. Gas smell can usually be hunted down, but it's also not something to mess around with either. Sounds like you have most of the usual suspects covered. Do you have a fire extinguisher? B

3 things to check, probably in this order: The clamps on the rubber hoses that go between the metal fuel rails, one in front and one in back. The fuel filler down tube to make sure it isn't shifted or compromised. The evap canister lines to see if they are blocked or even properly hooked up. Those 3 are causes of probably 90% of the fuel leaks I know of. Wait, one more. The seal of the port in the top of the tank, accessable by pulling up the carpet and opening the little hatch. B