BikerJared

I wish I had asked this question. I'll be digging through these links tonight. I used the factory wiring and cut the amps out. I'm not running massive speakers up front, (Infinity Kappa Perfect 6.5" components). I couldn't figure out how to get wires into the doors.

I got most of my info on the VG33+ from this thread - that's what put me on track to this. Trust me, I've been scouring the forums. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/35773-what-to-expect-out-of-a-vg33-and-vg34/ I'll just PM him and ask him my questions... thanks for your help.

I've seen them somewhere -- seems like these boots rip frequently on the trail and there are kits you can take to button them up. I'm not sure if that's exactly what you're asking for. Your truck looks almost the same as mine (mine's a 94 but I don't know if I could tell them apart). The lift looks really good. Here's mine for a comparison of stock:

Thanks for the responses. I'm still shopping engines and trying to find one in good shape. Nefarious -- I dig the 3.4 for the compression ratio increase. That increases efficiency the most because you're then able to convert more of the explosive/heat energy into motion. You're right though -- looks like a ton of work to get it right. A turbo would be fun, but the heat and lag add more stress on everything overall. I may go that direction someday though. Does anybody have any details on what My1Path's engine build is like? His build seems the simplest with good results. I wont be doing a lot of the work myself -- I've got a shop that is interested in it. They want as much info as possible though before they start.

Ah -- thanks for the clarification. I'm looking at buying a 3.3 right now to at least do the swap. I'd like to add cams/bore/pistons like Mr.510 has. I deal with software though -- the biggest thing I've done on a car is replace a starter and headers. If somebody was building these and I could just order one, it would give me an easier (though more expensive) option.

Not sure if this should go here or garage. I've got a 94 Pathfinder with Thorley headers and a stock VG30E. I've been planning on building out this truck for a few years and am finally to the point where I gotta start buying stuff. What I want: Gobs of power, but as good of MPG that I can get. I imagine this rules out FI solutions. I like the idea of dropping in a 3.3L + cams + possible bore to 3.4L with VQ pistons. Questions: 1. Will my Thorley headers work on a 3.3L? (I'm guessing that minimum that they bolt holes will need to be bigger.) Nobody seems to make decent headers for these cars anymore... 2. I've got two VG33Es local (one for $800 with 119k and one for $650 with 114k and finally one for $735 with 89k). Is it less trouble to buy one from a junk yard or to get a JDM motor? What should I look for in choosing a motor? I gotta pull this trigger quick before these motors are picked up by other shops. 3. It seems like Mr.510 and Project Pathfinder used the VG30 heads on their VG33 bottom ends? (I actually wasn't entirely sure with Mr.510's but it seemed that way.) Why do people do that and not just use the VG33 heads with a bored bottom end? 4. Finally, I'm a software engineer and not a mechanic by trade -- can somebody recommend a mechanic in Utah or Salt Lake Counties that would be willing to take on a project like this? I'm willing to take a crack at it in my garage, but I don't want to ruin stuff. Thanks in advance!

So, is Mr.510 doing these swaps for other people or just going forward on his pathy?

If you don't trust your gas gauge, when my idiot light comes on, I routinely fill up with 17-18 gallons of gas. I'm at 4500 ft elevation in Utah, and before I installed any mods, I was averaging 18 MPG. I've got headers and new exhaust and I'm barely scraping 22 MPG if I drive nice. What you're describing means you drive like a nut, or there is something wrong with the truck. It could be a number of things, a mechanic will be able to check them all out. If you know what you're doing, I'd at least check spark plugs and compression. That's generally simple to do. Next I'd look at injectors. If you have a Service Engine Soon light (commonly referred to as a CEL or check engine light), get that checked out. I had an O2 sensor die last winter and my MPG went from 18 to 12. The light came on and the code came back that the system was running lean. Actually, the O2 sensor had died and was reporting bad data. Once you've done that, there are knowledgable people here that can help you take the next steps. As a software engineer, what I've described above is the limit of my experience. A good Haynes manual also has some good diagnostic procedures that you could try on your own. Good luck.

Here is the thread: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/18653-genuine-nissan-parts/ Rob's alias is AlkorahilI need info for the window trim as well. Mine is gone. I'll fill the gaps with silicone caulk before I pay $500 for that stuff.

Also, you can usually get a cheap measurement tool at a parts store. Unless the gap is way off though, I don't think you'll notice a big difference in power. It seems like you may be shooting in the dark here - have you done any diagnostic work to get to the root of the problem?

Hey William - could you start a new Group By thread for this? Its a bit off topic for this thread. I haven't spoken with JWT, but based on the Doug Thorley GB, we'll probably need 10 people to pull this off. @RustFlames I've never done this before either - I have no idea how money works or anything like that. @Steeevo put the Doug Thorley one together.

Bosch. It has the full size harness as well.

New O2 sensor is in. I also added some Lucas fuel injector cleaner to the fuel and drove around for about 20 minutes. I've cleared the code and haven't seen it pop up again yet. Fingers crossed...

I checked for vacuum leaks earlier today and everything seems fine. I'll check the EGR tomorrow. I'll buy some injector cleaner also just for good measure.

Ordered an O2 sensor... should be here tomorrow AM.