Jump to content
  • Sign In Changes:  You now need to sign in using the email address associated with your account, combined with your current password.  Using your display name and password is no longer supported.

 

  • If you are currently trying to register, are not receiving the validation email, and are using an Outlook, Hotmail or Yahoo domain email address, please change your email address to something other than those (or temporary email providers). These domains are known to have problems delivering emails from the community.

Precise1

Moderator
  • Posts

    42,909
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    207

Everything posted by Precise1

  1. This is a very good mod, BUT some years/models (the ones with the 4x4 select knob) need the front axles to spin due to some internal lubrication IIRC. I know it has been discussed so let me know if you can't find it. You should consider what you will use the vehicle for and how much you are willing to spend, and that will generally decide how much to lift, rims, tires, bumpers, etc. Horse before the cart, eh? B
  2. Wow, mismatched inventory, AND more expensive that having it shipped from the US? Yeah, I wouldn't be going there again! I suspect I'd insist on a matching set as well... B
  3. I'm pretty sure there are just some pins, clips and screws. What do you see? For those worried about rocks getting kicked up, 3M makes a clear film that gets squeegied on (sort of like window tint) and stays put. It's pretty heavy duty and will ward off a lot of damage. I used some on my CBR1100XX with great success. http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/3M_Automotive/OEMs/Product_Center/Product_Catalog/?PC_7_RJH9U5230GNH60IQ4GSSPD0422000000_nid=XC1XV5L5G8be7PJ6KTK7DLgl http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/3M_Automotive/OEMs/Product_Center/Product_Catalog/?PC_7_RJH9U5230GNH60IQ4GSSPD0422000000_nid=9FM78M6QXFbe7PJ6KTK7DLgl B
  4. Congrats on finding what you wanted! A 2004 with the VQ power and only 123k miles on it should treat you well for a long time as long as you return the favor... B
  5. Now it'll get bastardized and beat to death instead! B
  6. That happened to a buddy of mine. All it needed was plug? B
  7. I apologize, I forgot about that after the thread took a turn for the Tungsten. Yes, the pipe is 2.01" diameter at the down and cross over tubes. The Walker clamp I used (which works well) is #33230 and is listed as 2". I put some Permatex Copper on the clamping surfaces just to make sure and no leaks or problems so far. B
  8. Nothing wrong with those tires except that they aren't mud terrains, they are all terrains, so they aren't going to perform as well in real mud. You generally get that floaty, slippery feeling anyway, it's more a function of how far forward you go. Put the direct link in the image icon in the menu above the text window when posting and you won't have any issues. B
  9. That should be easy to change? I didn't read all through it but it seemed like a sensible procedure, covering most of whats been said and going beyond. Let me know if you need a PDF emailed or something. B
  10. Check out page 24 of ec in the FSM. I believe you are at the 'check EGR function' followed by 'perform OBD' step... B
  11. I was working alone and needed to be careful. Yeah, funny, I was going to add that the transfer case will roll it a bit... I hear you with the storage, it's not like you use one all the time, but I also add in the time it takes to drive, wait, rent it, drive, use it, drive, return it, and drive home which makes it unattractive. It's a tough call either way, but the jack adapters never seemed that solid and adequate to me. If you do rent it, reserve it, get the truck ready as far as you can the day before and pick it up when they open. That way you shouldn't have an issue getting it back the same day, even if you run into complications. The luxury of owning the jack means if you have to wait for a part or something... That is less than I expected for the tranny! B
  12. I've not had this problem, but the opposite where it will occasionally idle higher than normal (1000-1100) and not drop down to 850 RPM unless I wiggle the wiring connector clipped onto the TPS so you might want to try that. The wife's Matrix's idle used to hunt and surge a bit when cold. I sprayed down the throttle plate and IACV with throttle body cleaner and let it sit for a bit. Once I got it started and cleared, it idled smoother at a slightly lower RPM, and no more surging when cold. I could see both of these things being the culprit. First make sure that the vacuum lines aren't compromised and that the timing is right. B
  13. I am contemplating a dual battery set up also, one that I can isolate and use to power an inverter but also use to support winching. I'm looking at one of these to put under the hood where my relocated oil filter currently is, behind the PS reservoir. http://www.batterymart.com/p-12v-35ah-sealed-lead-acid-battery-group-u1.html?utm_term=SLA-12V35&utm_source=GoogleBase&utm_medium=CPC&gclid=CKzdgIqZsbUCFQ45nAodyUQA4Q Sealed AGM with 35 amp/hour capacity, sized 8x5x8" for $65. For comparison, my Optima Yellow Top #75/25 has 48 amp hours, is 9.5x7x8" for $200. B
  14. That's it, in the curvy dash at least. Thanks for the picture Pav. B
  15. Just over a metric sheit load IIRC. I've never used a jack mount adapter, but swore if I have to pull another tranny, I'm going straight to HF to buy a tranny jack. I rented a tranny jack last time which worked, but the cost of it for 2 days was more than 1/2 of the price to buy a cheap one. B
  16. What snorkel? Any pictures? What did you do with the air box? I'd love to see... At least you have until April, I had to do the renos before I worked on the truck. B
  17. You just love your grease gun! There are two tapered plastic bushings inside of the idler arm. I'm not sure if a central zerk fitting would actually lube them even if you packed it. It would be better than nothing though. I still have a sock idler arm so I'll look as well tomorrow. B
  18. Sounds like it really needed it! B
  19. Get some penetrating oil in there pronto!! Next time you move #5, tighten it back in 1 turn, wait a mintue, back out another 1/2, wait a minute, back in 1 turn, wait a minute and so on until it is basically seated again, douse it with PO again, let it sit, then try to back it all the way out, but not in one run if it gets tight (then back in and back out gently). Your threads are galling, partially due to heat build up at the threads due to the friction which just makes it worse. Aluminum heads can have this issue. Try removing the plugs with the engine warm, that might help expand things. The #6 plug will need a bit of encouragement. Make sure to spray and let sit with penetrant and when you do try to break it free, make sure you are properly aligned up (flashlight and mirror). B
  20. I am not personally familiar their products. Easiest way is just to tap into the existing dimmer harness, but you could do that (or go straight off of ignition 12v) and have rheostat in line as well, so then you have the best of both worlds. This is what I have been considering. Agreed, that's why the gauge I got is 0-100PSI Yes quite tight. The bottom one I haven't been able to seat all the way. I don't thing the mounting brackets will even clear, but I haven't tried it yet. If I can use them, I will, it would piss me off to have a gauge that drifts every 20-50 miles. No one install one yet? I know I've been lagging, but what the hell? B
  21. And you are off! Seems like you have the right equipment and skills, so I'm sure it'll work out well. B
  22. I haven't the slightest idea. You can determine the type of end fittings and the length and see if you can find one close from another vehicle. It'll get you by and leave you with emergency backup. You'll need the help of your local parts store employee so bring donouts or walabies or whatever. B
  23. Yes and no. The rotor has to be removed for both, the old races pressed out and the new ones pressed in. The outer will usually fail first, but many people just replace them as a set. Just jack it up and wiggle the tire first to see if that is the issue. It takes 15 minutes... B
  24. 1)Really? From what source do you get this intel? 2)Of course. 3)Unlikely. 4)No one ever said factory exhaust is required. 5)Wrong, that is 1/2 the reason. The other 1/2 is that they paid for CARB certification testing, and passed. 6)Well, we have a hard time beliving you as well. 7)That shows the depth of your knowledge. 8)More like a certanty. 9) Good, but it doesn't matter. What happened Tungsten? You were doing so well, and now you are back to talking like an idiot about things you have have no experience with or information on. You are not discussing, you are making incorrect statements which is confusing the issue and misleading to people looking for accurate information. Stop it now or I will remove your ability to post and bring your account and history before the staff for review. Do not argue, just quit it. B
×
×
  • Create New...