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Precise1

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Everything posted by Precise1

  1. Use the torsion bars to adjust the ride height to where you want it within the proper range, shimming the UCA is how to change the camber. B
  2. Who knows? I don't think I have seen the site before and it hurts my eyes. The only reference to location I've seen is Valley of the Moon (childrens home), which is over the hill by Glen Ellen and Jack London's home IIRC. They do show a Santa Rosa PO box so yeah, he's around here somewhere. Hard to tell from the photos, but it is a white 1994 and no mention of customization that would be easy to spot. B
  3. Eww! What are those things in the middle? JK and the Pathy is looking great! B
  4. Option 2 seems like the way to go, but I can only assume that being adjustable will mean there will be a setting that will work for you. Doesn't the rear have a coil spring and shock, not strut assembly? I know the VG33 or pre-1999.5 models are set up this way. I have heard good things about the Rancho 9000 which are also adjustable and I assume some are made that will fit the rear. Watch what you wish for, that guy was nonstop trouble and attitude. I'm pretty sure he has youtube videos under the same name so you might be able to get a hold of him that way, just keep it away from here. B
  5. Thanks for the detailed description, and sorry for all the headache. I'll add a few observations myself if you don't mind. The stock exhaust is anywhere from 1.75-2.0" by my measurements and the motor is only 3 liters. The most restrictive parts are the manifolds and perhaps the stock cat, but not as much as people think. Upgrading to headers and a larger cat and piping is a good idea and will give you some power gains, but there is no need to put on huge piping. 2.5" is probably the max diameter desired, that large or larger won't gain you anything and might just reduce low end power. Also, just removing the cat and not upgrading the manifolds is not only irresponsible, but won't really net much either. If you don't have the desire or coin to upgrade the entire system, a good cat back system can be purchased (Gibson or Borla IIRC) and will be the best bang for your buck. I've driven a stock WD21, one with a magnaflow cat back, one with a cat back dual tip and my current with Thorley headers, Magnaflow cat and Flowmaster Delta 60 muffler. My current has the most power and throttle response (by a noticable margin) but is loud and raspy over 3000-3500rpm, the dual tip didn't seem to help with power but sound funny to me and the Magnaflow cat back sounded the best with modest performance gains. Part of what has to be considered is what do you use the truck for, what can you spend, what do you hope to achieve and how do you want it to sound. No matter what you do, you won't get 20hp or make it sound like a V8... B
  6. Yep, he is a honest, stand up guy. You would probably hear a combination of 3 things: Superior quality, overhead costs of running the Stealership, and 'where else are you going to get it'. I refuse to go to my local dealership any more as the guy who seems to run the parts counter is a surly, condecending jerk. Even if they had the same prices, they have lost my business. I've owned 4 Nissan 4x4s in 20+ years now, currently have 2 in the driveway, bought one for a friend in need and steered his BIL into buying a R50. I'm not the customer you want to drive away... B
  7. FYI, if I need/want a dealership part, I go straight to Alkorahil. His prices are so much lower than the local Stealership, the difference is almost criminal. I get mark ups and needing to make a profit, but past a certain point I find it to simply be insulting... B
  8. Pitman arms can be extremely resist to removal, and by tugging/prying, you should be able to tell if the bushings are shot. Rule of thumb, no slop... MY1PATH had found a good shop for rebuilds in washington, Red Hat or something. B
  9. Yep, the earliest digitized one that is known of is 1994. Most of it applies to 1990-1993, and even some for 1986.5-1989 as well. The main differences in the 4 door models (1990-1995) is trim, cosmetics and the dash... B
  10. Tire pressure and if the strut rod and UCA bushings are toast, it will make the ride harsh as well. Snap a picture and tell us what the tire size is and we'll be able to tell you where the ride height is at. B
  11. Yeah, ok, sure. That's what that means... Ok, 3 or 4 pin is fine and I'll grab the pigtail if I can. Talk to me about bolts and metal and tolerances, I don't need no stinkin' wires! B
  12. 3 minutes to answer your own question, I think that is a record. Glad you got it figured out... B
  13. First, make sure you are getting a good connection at the battery terminals and also where the ground strap connects to the chassis/frame/motor. Next, grab a multimeter or someone who has one. Check the voltage of the battery disconnected, check the voltage connected, check the voltage with the ignition on, measure the voltage drop when you start it and measure the voltage when it is running. Should be something like this: 12.7V, 12.6V, 12.4V, 10+V, 13-14V. That should help us define what the problem is. B
  14. ^ What the pimp said... B
  15. Many come with a LSD from the factory but it shouldn't make any noise, an after market mechanical locker would. Lockers can only be installed into open differentials with this vehicle, so the first thing would be to look to see if you have an orange sticker on the rear of the pumpkin (they will survive anything but a direct nuclear strike). The second would be to drain the fluid and see if any metal bits come out with it, and third, fill it with new fluid and see what it does. Ever change the diff fluids? Probably not, most people neglect them... As for the tranny needing to warm up, this isn't unusual, I have experienced it on a 1995 and a 1999.0. The thermostat will have little to do with it. Is there an aftermarket cooler mounted or is it just the one in the bottom of the radiator? What condition is the tranny fluid in? B
  16. Great, even the dimmer has to be complicated. Do you know which pin configuration applies to which year/dash type (or whatever the difference is)? B
  17. Nope, I didn't! Mainly because both my WD21 XE models have had heated mirrors. Both were from back east so maybe it was more common there? It was pretty funny one morning when I told my wife that her 2004 didn't have the the heated mirrors my 95 did... B
  18. You are welcome, I am actually surprised you didn't know of it. Sorry, I try to point people to it as often as I can... B
  19. If it is 3mph off regardess of speed, it can't be the gearing as it would change as the vehicle speed did. If the GPS is to be trusted, then your absolute zero or needle position is off. B
  20. You wear it well! B Damn it, there is a nut in my way...
  21. Links to the FSM are in a thread, pinned in the Garage section. It's a must have if you don't already... B
  22. Ok, got it, I'll let you know and the are black only AFAIK. B
  23. Sure, as soon as I can source one from the local wrecker. No new pathys there recently so I don't know how long before I make the next trip. Look in the For Sale section for people parting out trucks also. Its not much to ship something that small so it shouldn't be a big deal... B
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