Precise1

I guess they are still waiting for an answer? B

The 30x9.5" style designation on up in size are considered high flotation tires that are designed for off road/airing down applications. 33's on 15" gives you 9" of sidewall, the metric size you posted has 8.4" sidewall. Not a huge difference, but I prefer to stick with the 15" rims. I think the 15" high flotation sizes are the most available, but I don't work in a tire shop. Pay attention to the backspacing when selecting rims. I'm not even going to discuss 17, 18 or 20" rims... B

Absolutely! This makes me think bearings also, perhaps with a side of brakes. Do what Slarti said... B

MWS wrote up a blerb on rebuilding his MC. His attitude is if you have a good bore/piston, just change the seals and don't wind up with a poorly manufactured/remanufactured one. That said, I haven't done it and don't know how available the rebuilt kits would be. Yes, it should be ok to drive on for a little while as long as it doesn't suck any air. and yes, it should just be a seal replacement. Clean up below it or put something under it (cut up/wedge in a plastic container or something) to try to catch the fluid so you can monitor the leak, and obviously keep an eye on the level regularly. Also, you may want to check on the piston rod that comes into the cabin for fluid, as well as a spot check at each wheel. B

Too True! Cute kid and nice truck Bud! B

Done. I'll delete these posts tonight. B

Are you sure you don't mean .02"? B

I doubt it is the battery. Yes, it could drain and stall the vehicle, but it wouldn't be able to turn it over to restart it. The problem almost sounds electrical due to the random cut out, but it doesn't do it with LP, so that doesn't make sense. It only stumbles and dies running gas, so that leads me to believe it is a fuel delivery issue. Has the pressure regulator been checked/replaced? Maybe it maintains the correct pressure but not enough flow as the mechanic said? How is the LP plumbed in? It has to get into the fuel rail and injectors, so how is the gasoline supply shut off? Is there a valve somewhere in the line that could be restricting flow? One time I had an intermittent dying issue that turned out to be a fuel additive cap seal floating in the gas tank. It would get sucked against the fuel puck up in the tank, block off the flow, starve the motor and kill it. After 5 minutes it would fall back off and the car would run another random length of time. I wish I knew the dual fuel systems to better diagnose. Yes, I don't know if the OBD2 reader is used world wide, but there has to be a plug to check the computer for fault codes. B

Whatever you had verified, it wasn't according to Ca compliance. I'll dig it up tomorrow... B

Well, if David said... Nope, the Thorleys aren't perfect, they are just the best out there that is generally available, life time warrantied and CARB legal. Hell, in Cali the biggest cat I can legally mount has 2" input and output, so the Thorleys aren't the choke point. It is still a significant improvement over the restrictive stock set up; the differences you talk about are minor unless you are at high RPM. The Pathy isn't a race track vehicle and who wheels @ 5000RPM? Is 5 HP going to make the difference? I'll measure/confirm tomorrow. B

Yeah, play it safe by all means! I'm not an expert painted plastic but there has to be something for this application. What about a clear coat from a spray can? Oddly enough, my unpainted one is glossy black. B

Well, I think the best way is simply to cut 2 slots into the roof rack tube and use the factory method of attaching the mounts. The tab with the threaded hole has two different width ends, so the slots are .700 on one side and .865 on the other. The important dimensions are underlined in red, the top cut out doesn't matter from what I can tell. This would be easy to do with a Dremel, die grinder or such, but I plan to use my mill. B

Try putting a wax or polish on it? B

I lubed my carrier a couple of weeks. I used Lucas oil stabilizer, painted it on with an acid brush where I wanted it and let it sit. Once it worked 3 days/20 swings later, it is flawlessly smooth. So much so that I have to be careful opening it on a slope or gravity will open it. B

Yeah, replace it and keep it in good condition, you want it there for a few reasons. B

I was going to say, it just raises the shift points IIRC. I find I can do almost the same thing just by throttle position. If it works for you, good! B

Arguably, if you are using synthetic and a quality filter, you could go safely 5,000 miles between changes. That is what I do with our R50 and Toyota Matrix. The WD21 gets a dino/synth blend every 3,000 but it doesn't see much driving. Some people will claim you can run synth longer but my issue is not with the lubricity of the oil, but the contaminants in it. Ok, on to the lifters. How bad is the ticking? Some tick is almost a signature of the engine. There are many people who have done cam and lifter work, so there are many threads containing info. Sorry, I do not know of one specific thread to point you to, but I recommend starting with a search with the words '+lifter +tick' and go from there. B

I may get to mine today, but I haven't ordered my oil sender adapter yet. Off to pick and pull first... B

Updated. You haven't gotten yours yet Dowser? B

Cleaned up the title... B

If you do, please share them. Yours I can believe. B

Keep it in your pants Stalker. Is that really your response and explanation? Yeah, I've been watching the contradictions and backpedaling pile up as well, but thanks for the math and sleuth work Koveman. Well Cory, you definitely have too much free time. I'll recommend your account to be closed. B

I understand exactly what you are saying, and I did catch the above 5psi part too. The range I'm looking at is above 9PSI at idle, up to 53-65PSI at 3,200RPM. At 9PSI they claim accuracy within +/-.45PSI. I'm not going to be concerned if I read 8PSI on the gauge, but I will if I see 5 so it should still work sufficiently for me. All I can say is that I'll check it out and give you my feed back. I do have a compression gauge somewhere so maybe I can take some readings with that. B

*sigh* Well, apparently it has come to a head... Cory, you are going to have to address this before anyone will take you seriously about headers. What you post flies in the face of experience and experimentation. If it is true, people would love to hear how... Lets hold up and let him answer please... B

Yep, they'll inform you of failed voltage regulators, ignition load, charging failure, battery failure, etc. That's a required gauge in my book. B