Precise1

x2 on checking the wiring connection, that could be the problem and it is quick and easy... B

You are talking about the petrol V6, correct? I'm pretty sure Terranovation has the 2.7l TD in his... B

The shifter is cable activated to the tranny, so make sure that is hooked up properly. It makes sense that the truck didn't want to start in gear... Did the tranny get hot in the sand? What is the fluid like (just covering all bases)... B

I'm glad it is behaving now, but be suspicious, don't think it 'fixed' it's self... 95% of Pathfinders out there are 4x4, so just assume that is what everyone is talking about. As ebayfish mentioned, it is just a lot of work; the tranny is huge and heavy you have to jack the Pathy way up to get it to clear, some of the bolts are hard to get to, you have to pull the T-bars and a cross member to get it out, etc. Not trying to scare you, plenty of people have done it, but it is a lot of work... B

Hey Mike. Sorry, I don't know the part names/numbers you need, but call Alkorahil (Rob Lacy, contact info in the Services section) and he will tell you/supply them if you wish. Sorry about the troubles, but may I offer some advice? It might just be best to rent a moving truck/car trailer for a week and clear all your sheit out in 1 day with help from friends/witnesses and put it in storage/friends back 40. I'm not really sure what is going on there, but I've dealt with crazy and a clean break/run for it is your best bet... Good luck Bud. B

^Agreed A slim chance is to make sure the cable for the shifter is properly adjusted. (FSM downloadable from the pinned thread in the Garage section) The only reason I say this is that it should never stop rolling in neutral, so you might not be in the gear you think. Other than that, yes, I suspect you have serious issues with the tranny... B

I've used Castrol GTX to good effect. Well, nothing failed anyway... B

Career machinst here who often showed inspectors how to properly check parts. So, yeah, listen to your Dad... B

Damn, I'm surprised that they held in that condition! May I recommend something though? When chasing threads (cleaning up existing helix), use a roll (cold form) tap that doesn't cut but forms the threads with progressive lobes. The benefit is that it picks up/follows the existing threads and swages them back into proper form with no material lost and work hardens them at the same time. This is the strongest thread form there is other than inserts. Chasing threads with a cut tap means you are just clearing the impeding material, much of which comes from the crest of the thread. This means you might be past the recommended minimum diameter (% of thread formation, 75% is an industry minimum) and while the bolt threads in cleanly, the thread engagement/integrity of the hole is not necessarily equal to the engineered minimum. Not trying to be a downer, but I've cut/formed more threads than most people have ever wrenched and really know the science of it. B

Sweet! You'll never run out of gas! Perpetual motion machine FTW! Ok, it sounds like the float is stuck or the sender unit wires are compromised (not entirely unusual), at least on the WD21s. Seeing that you aare in corossive Canadia, it could well be part of the problem. Do R50's have the access hatch in the rear under the carpet? I've not gone there myself. Download the FSM from the pinned thread in the Garage section and see what it says about fuel pump/sender access... B

Good point, I'm guilty of forgetting that myself... Ok... This is starting to piss me off, and I don't even own the damn thing! B

I think he is talking about the ABS unit, if it is the item about 3/4 of the way back on the inside of the passenger frame rail. I'm pretty sure only the D21 had the brake bias valve, not the WD21... B

I'd check the harness for continuity/resistance. Instructions in the FSM... B

No problem, you are welcome I realize a significant difference in our lists. You are adding major suspension components due to the rust factor that I wouldn't bother stocking at all. Makes sense, I just have never needed to consider that. B

x3 you can see it easy. The only time I pulled a seat was to ship it to Arizona... B

That does sound odd, but then you have an interesting exhaust set up... You can use a timing light to see if wires are carrying the spark, and check them for resistance as well. (see FSM) I don't know the TBI system well enough to help much, but it does sound like one cylinder is off. Could there be a fouled plug, have you checked them? Problems in the injector wiring? Have you done a compression test to rule that out? B

I find making a list of needed/wanted things to be helpful. That said, pick up every decent nut/bolt/washer you see and pocket them. You also want to get some relays, fuse blocks, fuseable links and that type of 1 use electronic crap from under the hood and under the dash. It might keep you on the road, or just make troubleshooting a lot easier. Idler pullly isn't a bad idea but you don't have hubs, just drive flanges. Spare belts/hoses if they look fresh... A spare dizzy/coil might not be a bad idea, headlight bulbs (bring gloves/baggie-don't touch them), all other bulbs in general. Temp sensors, MAF, TPS, etc... Get the stuff that counts. I have a tendency to keep spares of every major running component, I am only lacking an ECU and Dizzy ATM. Trim and such I don't worry so much about, as I can drive with a broken arm rest, but not with a broken TPS. I don't know your storage capacity, but don't go too nuts, just get the electrical components, and the critical sensors/parts. Nothing like having problem with something and saying "Oh, I have 2 of those in the shed" and 15 minutes later it is fixed. B O2 sensors! You have 4 so get some spares... Label everything very well and store in boxes.

Sorry, that isn't quite what I meant. At least you are enjoying your Miata... My Pathfinder is off the road as well, but in my driveway and could technically be swiped the same way, other than I am usually home. Unfortuantely locked doors don't mean anything on a Pathfinder, only maybe of there is an alarm active. Wheel locks are quite easy to remove with a little equipment, the bumper is easier to cut off than weld on. My friend had his pathfinder stolen from infront of his house by a crackhead who was caught a week later driving it around the same area... Kingman's custom wired ignition security Pathfinder was simply picked up and taken... The only way to to keep a vehicle safe is some combination of alarm, low jack GPS system, having neighbors close enough to keep an eye out and/or securing it indoors or behind a gate or such. I even intend to put up security cameras... Sad state of affairs, but the criminal element has always existed so all you can do is try to stay ahead of them. B

It is bad that the Pathy was stabled and is gone now, but good that you seemed to have moved on. The circle of life... B

Not if it is simply mirroring what currently exists. You won't be able to get much closer than where it is, and it won't make that much of a difference anyway. When determining the diameter of pipe to be used, go by the area of a cross seation, not diameter as area increases at greater ratio than the diameter; as illustrated. B

Nice job. If it works for you, then it was a success... B

I wouldn't go any larger than 2.5", and even that might be excessive. It is only a 3 liter motor (183ci)... B

Maybe a larger or second cooler? Do you have any other way to double check the temp? Even a meat thermometer would do it if you can just access the ATF. How about removing the sensor and droping it in a cup of boiling water along with said meat probe and seeing if they both read the same. In 20 years of manufacturing, I learned that if you get results you can't explain, double check the measuring equipment. Have you checked for good flow by putting the out line into a bucket and having someone fire it up for 3 seconds? It is easy to put back in if you bought that funnel... B

The local Nissan Dealership is out of stock clutch disks, pressure plates, pilot bushing and throw out bearings? Well, you remove the transmission, take out the old parts, put the new ones in... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/29544-transmission-removal/?hl=%2Btransmission+%2Bremoval http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/28349-transmission-removal/?hl=%2Btransmission+%2Bremoval http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/25721-99-5-transmission-removal/?hl=%2Btransmission+%2Bremoval And... Go to the Garage section and download the FSM from the pinned thread, then start reading... You will need to remove the drive shafts, a cross member, the shifter, all wires, the engine bolts with long extensions/universals and help of a friend, a tranny jack is recommended, consider replacing your rear main seal, the flywheel as well, replace the clutch parts using a clutch alignment tool, and then put it all back together. It isn't as bad as it sounds, just read up do you understand the process then ask about what you need answers on. B

Seems that way... Did anyone chack the oil since that was posted almost 4 weeks ago? B