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charles

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  • Your Pathfinder Info
    A 1994 Pathfinder XE... thought it had 150,000 km, then found a sticker saying odometer had been replaced at 160,000 km. Woops. Mechanically sound, mostly, hopefully. A little rusty, no more back seats. A million little to-do's. I'm camperizing the back and hopefully moving north with it soon. I need some help sorting out some shtuff!
  • Mechanical Skill Level
    Wrench And Socket Set Mechanic
  • Your Age
    22-29
  • What do you consider yourself?
    Rarely Go Off-Road
  • Model
    XE
  • Year
    1994

Profile Information

  • Location
    British Columbia
  • Country
    Canada

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  1. Ha. Just looked at wiring diagrams for DRL versus non-DRL... no way in Sam hell am I going to make one into the other.
  2. Indeed, I've seen that thing come up more than once. But it is removable, with a bit of work, I believe?
  3. @ahardb0dy: Great, thanks for the reply. Good to know that either left or right can be affected by the switch. I grabbed an older switch off a circa 1990, but also one off a 2nd generation... I got the harnesses too, hoping I can switch all the wires and keep the 'newer' look of my '94 intact. And... foglight switch! Another quick question, for anyone I suppose... when your headlights malfunction, do your highbeam indicators stay on, regardless of being on high or low beam? When the shoddy bulb holder was malfunctioning, this would not happen, but on my other malfunction on the left, when it copped out the blue high beam light came on until it fixed itself, then it turned off. Anyone else have this?
  4. Hey everyone, Hoping I could get a few people's two cents before I start to diagnose the headlight issues I have. I replaced both the bulb sockets, as the old ones were melted. One of them is faulty, and so the light craps out, but tapping on the light or frigging with the wires sorts it out... The other however, just does what it wants, and hitting it doesn't help... So left side, both high and low beams will crap out, the highbeam indicator light then turns on in the dash and stays on regardless of whether the switch is on high or low. It craps out for maybe 5 minute intervals. Any gut thoughts? I'm hoping that because it's just one side, there are fewer places along the system where the problem could be? I've read the switches are common points of failure... Mine has been out and cleaned, looks alright I guess... are the left and right wires separate in the switch though? I can't remember now! Thanks, Charles.
  5. I tried the lid, it does indeed work very well. A standard yogurt container lid is JUST big enough. I put tie-wire through it, then laid a long bar of metal across the opening which I tied the wire too... this held it in place. Also, turns out I'm the asshole... the O-rings seem to be built to expand when used or when they contact gas? Anyway, mine went in the right size and came out too big, just like the first one was when I pulled it out. So ya, you definitely cannot reuse them, heads up on that. Except I did reuse mine, I just cut about a centimeter out of it so that it became the right size again. So far so good.
  6. I did a little recon on this... WD-40'd every bolt I could see, popped the sender out to take a peek... The MORON who I bought this from put the wrong sized O-Ring in! It was so damn big, a good 1/2 to 1 inch of the rubber was fully out of its seat, literally holding the flange off its mating surface. I might as well have had a big salad bowl for a gas tank, bloody gasoline sloshing all over the place. I can see this guy's fingerprints all over the vehicle... everywhere he has touched it something is broken, his 'handy' work is unbelievable. Soooo many cuss words are being withheld here... Grrrrr... On the bright side... I have a good idea why my gas mileage on the first part of the tank is so terrible. And I don't have to look into the vapour filter system for why my rig stinks like gas.
  7. Hmm... alright, thanks for the heads up. I'll get something else on there for sure!
  8. @Westslope - thanks for the write-up! My gauge is pretty wonky AND gas pisses out of the o-ring when the tank is full, so I have two good reasons to follow your lead on this! @GrimGreg - how reasonable a job is it to drop the tank? I have two steel ramps but that's about it... that's a great jimmy-rig idea for cleaning the gasket area, but I think I'd rather drop the tank if possible... if I don't drop the tank I'll definitely end up using a vacuum cleaner regardless of the disclaimers...
  9. @adamzan - I now agree too... I can feel it flex under my foot as I'm driving. But I liberally applied several coats of rubberized asphalt (that rocker guard stuff) to the underside, making sure to get it up into the gap, and did the truck bed liner on top (it got dark so I didn't photograph the finished product). Once it's warm and dry I'll be sure to go at it again to make sure it's righteously thick!
  10. Just putting it together now... but a DIY emergency welding kit: -2 lengths of 2 gauge battery wire, with battery terminals at both ends -welding goggles -welding gloves -7014 or 6013 welding rods -jumper cables (already in the vehicle) -old bike tubing (to wrap the jumper cable that holds the welding rod) Watch a few youtube videos, practice a bit at home, and then throw this kit together. If you're totally hooped, and you have a second or third vehicle, put the batteries in series and DC weld away!
  11. She was all sorts of cross-eyed, so I aligned the headlights. Cheers to seeing in the dark!
  12. Hey! Just wanted to share what I've got going so far! I bought a 94XE maybe a month ago. I thought it had 150,000km on it... It was sorta wet and gross so I figured I'd gut it and then put it back together, but I found a bunch of rust, and a sticker saying the odometer had been replaced and reset to zero at 166,000km... so I kissed the idea of finally owning a (relatively) low mileage vehicle goodbye, and got to work! Here's the thing gutted... ...exposing the rust holes under the rear seats that I'm guessing far too many of you have seen before! And there was a gooder under the driver's right foot, for good measure! So I ground down the rust and started cutting... It was disconcerting to see so much ground... Also, I lost a bolt for each of the back seats, so... no more back seats! I just used a rust primer around the edges... Then pop-riveted sheet metal into place... It's getting a little dark here... but I also applied several coats of rubberized asphalt (comes in a spray can) to the metal patches from underneath the vehicle, and after painting the whole patch on the inside, I sealed the edges with spray-on truck-bed liner. So overall, obviously not as good as welding, but I put a lot of rivets in, hahaha, and the edges are hopefully all sealed to prevent water and dirt from getting into there too much. Has anyone here ever fallen victim to the 'white van speaker scam' ? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/White_van_speaker_scam I did, because apparently I'm gullible. But the good thing about spending $300 on a set of worthless speakers is that you can not give a crap about them... The subwoofer didn't fit nicely in the back so I just smashed it with a hammer, cut it up with a skill saw, and then threw it back together in the right size/shape! Boom! Now it fits and it sounds just as mediocre as it did before! Is that expanding foam coming out the top? Sure as heck is! Also, you can see the patches peeking out from under the rubber mat... the grey is primer and the black is the spray-on truck-bed liner. That's all for now!
  13. A little slow, but here's my rig, next to my jimmy'd outdoor shop!
  14. Quick follow-up for anyone else who might stumble across this... I WD40'd the hell out of this ring, anticipating trying to take it off. The noise is now completely gone. Apparently the tiniest bit of rust on the exciter ring can cause quite a bit of noise, which I think is the ticking noise I was hearing. So a similar noise can mean worse things, worn gears, etc., in the diff, but it could just be a bit of rust on a 'whatever' part, so give this a go first!
  15. Hello everyone; I just super sketchily 'fixed' my speedometer... after all sorts of chundering around, it turned out to be a bad wire somewhere between a harness in the engine bay and the super multiple junction (SMJ). The following is an unnecessarily detailed and illustrated play by play... bear with me as I use this as an excuse to practice posting with photos, etc. At the end of the day, it does work, but if I've done something daft that I haven't realized, please point it out! So... my cluster is a soup sandwich. Tac is intermittently spastic, speedo/odo totally dead, gas gauge iffy at best, and some lights sometimes not working. Tac and lights respond to smashing the dash, but the speedo is totally dead, all the time. I jacked up the back, threw it in 1st, and got a .5V AC reading off the vehicle speed sensor (VSS). I got the same reading at this harness in the engine bay, next to horn/light relays (picture taken later, after cutting wires, red and white from VSS): I could not, however, find the same reading at the SMJ (I eventually figured out how to read wiring diagrams, and figured, optimistically, that the wires went to K14 and M13). So, I connected tiny female disconnects to one end of speaker wire, put those to the pins in the harness from the VSS, and jammed the other ends into K14 and M13 in the SMJ. Lo and behold, putting the vehicle in 1st saw the speedo going to 10km/h, and the odo started to turn! So I spliced the speaker wire into the engine bay harness, cut the wires going to K14 and M13 and spliced into those too! This is maybe the sketchy part... I'm using speaker wire (so smaller gauge than the wire typically used) and it's running across the engine bay along the brake lines, under the rain tray, and then into the cabin through the port meant for the door's speaker wires (note the reef knots to tie the new 'speedo' wire to the speaker wire, which I then ripped back into the cabin...). I figure because the signal is low voltage/current, it's alright to use the thinner wire? Or maybe at high speeds the signal gets higher voltage? Is it alright to have current running next to brake lines? Anything else super stupid I've done and not realized? Finally, I'd like to put together a consolidated 'how-to' for diagnosing cluster issues. There's A LOT of info on how/what to do, but it would be nice to have it in one place, and have things in order to look at, from easiest and cheapest to diagnose through to hardest and most expensive. I counted out quarters at a wrecker to get a cluster (after tightening its screws, etc.) only to have it not make any difference. It'd be great if others could be saved the same fate! Feedback on this? Maybe I'll post a draft to this thread, people can chime in, then I can revise and then post? Anything particular I should know about the 'how to' section? Cheers, Charles.
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