Precise1

Agreed, I drove a D720 kingcab 4x4 with the Z24 for many years. Super reliable, and super slow. 106hp from the factory IIRC so no gv280z, you aren't jealous about the motor set up. I never looked into engine mods as I live in California smog territory, but I do understand that that they can be improved considerably. What about the KA24 version, they were in the 140hp range but do they bolt up? B

AFAIK ARB stopped making their bull bar for the WD21, but not the D21 which is slightly higher body wise (3-4cm), but otherwise the mounting points are the same (or close enough) so it would be minimal modification to make it fit. B

Very Nice Roy, that thing looks sweet! B

Agreed. The listed change interval is per mileage or 4 years IIRC, but no one pays attention to the time interval. I have changed a timing belt that was 15 years old and it really didn't look bad at all; I'm sure it would have gone a bit farther without any issue and it already had 100k miles on it. B

So they were riv-nuts? Well, glad you got it dealt with. Yeah, some of the screws Nissan uses are pretty damn soft.... B

Thanks, I see that now in the second picture. That should hold just fine! B

I merged them for you. The proceedure to check/clear the ECU codes are well documented and easy to find in the Garage/How To section. There is someone else with a non-firing injector issue, so hopefully these will get prompt attention. I know people have been through this before but I don't know the answer myself. I believe MY1PATH has dealt with it, for one... B

^Good question! Do you get any codes now? Anything different? Were the connectors in good condition? Have you tried moving the wires around near the connectors to see if there is anything seperated? I'm going to move this to the 1986.5-1989 section as that is the years with the TBI... B

Have you tried holding the rivet type thing on the inside while trying to unscrew from the top? If you have no one to help you, try putting a large vice-grip on the rivet and then tapping in a wood shim, wedge or something in between the side of the vice-grip and and roof to bind it in place. There have to be threads in there or they wouldn't have used screws... B

Good job! What is reinforcing the corner that the bottom mount appears to be welded to? B

Obviously do the first part, but start by examining the tires. If they are scalloped, that usually indicates bad struts and even balancing/replacing the struts won't make it ride smooth again. Vibration at a specific speed often points to wheel balance due to harmonic frequency in the vibration, that's why you can be relatively fine under and over the specific range. Of course Murphy's Law dictates that the vibration range will be at the speed you drive the most... B

If you are desert wheeling, I think you will prefer a manual, as long as you are good with the gas/clutch/handbrake combo. I think manuals give you more control and reliability, but can be harder to deal with in technical situations. They aren't much of a benefit in mud unless you want to be locked into one gear. I've always felt that auto trannies in wheelers were for lazy/apathetic drivers, just like auto trannies in sport cars on the street. B

Good catch, it can be easy to miss something like that. Just a word to everyone, make sure your battery is well secured, even to the point of overkill. I once had to fix car that had an electrical fire where the battery burned down to 1/10th its original size. Not fun! The cause was a loose battery... B

Well then, what was the problem, and how did you solve it? Last one was a 1994 XR650L. Mirrors were fine unless the engine was running, then they would give you seizures if you looked in them... B

Nothing personal Bud, but it sounds like you are going to have to make the time to get it done. Been there myself, you can do it too... B

Yes, that belt is overdue for it's 60k mile change... Don't drive it hard. There are a few people in Colorado and maybe they can help you, but parking it and saving until you can pay a mechanic may save you a motor. Not trying to scare you, just being real. For what it is worth, I bought a 1995 with 96k miles on it in 2010; original timing belt 15 years old and I was paranoid that it was dry rotted and falling apart. When I changed it, it looked used but not damaged in any way other that small cracksin the the surface between the teeth when flexed backwards. In other words, don't panic, but do it/get it dealt with ASAP. You might want to post in the regional section towards the bottom of the main page... B

That wasn't flaming by a long shot, it was a lot of people taking a lot of time to show you how to do something quite basic. It is simply 'follow the instructions', just like a package of Top Ramen... Nice Pathfinder, the chrome on black looks nicer than I would have thought. B

Sorry to hear that Bud, but 350k is a long life for an auto tranny, especially a WD21's! In all honesty, I'd just try to source a newer tranny out of a Frontier or Xterra, they are said to be heavier duty and still bolt right in. I believe the years are something like 1999-2003, but best look around here and confirm that; there is a thread or two that covers the info well. Make sure the torque converter comes with the tranny... If you have a decent place to work, the right tools, etc, I recommend doing the swap yourself as it isn't terribly hard, but takes a lot of time, so shop rates would be a killer. If you really want to add new life, source a VG33 and the newer tranny, put the VG33 in with all the stock VG30 furniture/equipment. It'll still pass smog and they'll probably never know there is a larger motor installed. I was driving through Livermore yesterday afternoon, it was too damn hot! B

Those who have installed the Pace Setters have had everything from smooth to PITA experiences, I'm not sure why that is. I do not know the part number used though. This is the perfect time to install an oil filter relocation kit to avoid what Mr Special is talking about. B

Sucks that it is on the drivers side, I'm sure you have to pull the plenum to get to it, but if you can remove the retaining clip and get the wire connector off, it would be worth testing the injector with an ohm meter first. I'm pretty sure the resistance is supposed to be 10-14 ohms cold, but yes, download the FSM from the pinned thread in the Garage section. 1994 is the first year, but it still applies to 90+% of your vehicle. Might be worth checking the harness as well, but odds are that if there is an issue, it would be the injector. I had one on a 1999.0 that failed only when it was run until hot, then shut off and restarted. Quite the PITA to troubleshoot... B

Merged and pruned Mr Mad... Sorry electrical mysteries are not my strong point, so I'm no help here. B

If you have air in the lines, it can cause a mild drag when the pedal is released but I assume you bled it. Did you bleed the entire systenm or just the front or one side? B

Yep, looks great! I leaned a 4x8x.451" plywwod against mine... B

The bearings are supposed to be slightly preloaded, but not much. The proceedure is in the FSM which is downloadable from the pinned thread in the Garage section. Use the 1994 version, it will be the same for your truck on most things, including this. For the part that they talk about using a spring gauge to check rotational drag, you can just suspend a weight vertically from one of the studs to get the same effect. I have hand sledge that works perfectly... B

There is a bottom lip about an inch wide that many of us take off for clearance when installing body lifts. Take a look and see if that would do it for you, it just clips together and would be an easy solution if appropriate. B